eRolls with SS wicks...
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I might get one of those - it would also be useful just for holding the head steady while trying to get the prong back in.
Not expecting the heads to be much use though, some clones can't even have their prong removed!
Not expecting the heads to be much use though, some clones can't even have their prong removed!
I dunno! After rolling it tight on a paperclip, I roll it a little just between my fingers (without the paperclip) to make it fit. Once it's in, I open out the hole again. Did that little bit of mesh that's around the stock wick come out with the wick? What grade / thickness of mesh have you got? Since 28mm of 400 grade fits even with almost a 1mm hole down the middle, so there's probably something we could put you right on, if we could only guess what it was!
eGo-C Atomizer Head Re-Wick Tutorial - YouTube -- was my guide when I started
I bought this mesh - 1 sheet (330x225 mm) Stainless Steel woven wire Mesh #400 #325 #300 #250 | eBay
and followed this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkcxJnIgLNo
I cut it to 3/4in and tried to roll it and it was way too big. I took about 1/4 inch and rolled it, and that fit but I had to draw pretty hard, and I didn't notice any difference in flavour. It made my tongue feel funny though
That video has a distinctly less precise attitude to going about it, than the one I linked, lol! I'd say it shows you the basic idea, and that it's possible, but not a whole lot of detail or close-ups. I agree on the oxidising - the one I linked goes way overboard with that. But, you do get to see the guy get 3/4 inch of 325 mesh in that 2mm hole
I'm going to guess that there's something about your rolling technique that isn't working as well as it could... when you have the 3/4 inch strip rolled up (but still too big), roll it between your fingers back and forth with some pressure on it - you should feel it gets tighter one way but looser the other. The trick is to only roll it tighter, so squeeze it while rolling in the direction that tightens it, and barely touch it as you bring it back for another tightening roll. Sorry if you've already discovered this, but it's all I can think of!
I'm going to guess that there's something about your rolling technique that isn't working as well as it could... when you have the 3/4 inch strip rolled up (but still too big), roll it between your fingers back and forth with some pressure on it - you should feel it gets tighter one way but looser the other. The trick is to only roll it tighter, so squeeze it while rolling in the direction that tightens it, and barely touch it as you bring it back for another tightening roll. Sorry if you've already discovered this, but it's all I can think of!
I barely oxidize at all for fear of generating unhealthy compounds - there's a ton of material on the forums if anyone cares to read. It's a pretty hotly debated topic, but I've decided that a minimal amount of oxidizing works well.
What I have noticed, though, is that if I run the eRoll dry, the battery sticks on. As soon as I add more liquid, the problem subsides. I wonder if a dry coil shorts the battery somehow?
What I have noticed, though, is that if I run the eRoll dry, the battery sticks on. As soon as I add more liquid, the problem subsides. I wonder if a dry coil shorts the battery somehow?
I had a battery stick a few times, blue LED stayed on for about 30 seconds. The tank was dry, but because it had dumped juice through a worn seal and flooded the battery contacts, shorting them out ...
The downside of reusing atomizers over a long period is that they seem to physically wear out, the press fit of the spike end gets weaker, and the o-ring at the bottom flattens out. Combine that with a sloppy tank seal, and you have a juice dump onto the battery ...
Now I'm trying to use only tanks with the seal replaced with the soft silicone insert, it hugs the spike better ...
As with all things mechanical, small variations in size can stack up with certain combinations of components, and create a leak path ...
But I still love my eRoll, best stealth vape I've found ...
The downside of reusing atomizers over a long period is that they seem to physically wear out, the press fit of the spike end gets weaker, and the o-ring at the bottom flattens out. Combine that with a sloppy tank seal, and you have a juice dump onto the battery ...
Now I'm trying to use only tanks with the seal replaced with the soft silicone insert, it hugs the spike better ...
As with all things mechanical, small variations in size can stack up with certain combinations of components, and create a leak path ...
But I still love my eRoll, best stealth vape I've found ...
I am about to "retire" some of my oldest attys after at least a year of hard use. The coils are sagging from contact with the SS wicks, and the spikes are deformed from plieres used to remove the spike again and again ...
But the tanks could last indefinitely, with occasional replacement of these soft silicone inserts, less than 20 cents each ...
They really work, and seem to actually make the tanl slide on more easily ...
Joye e-Roll Tank Cartridge Caps
I just rewicked my first eroll atty with ss mesh, and wow! Ok, technically, second attempt, first was over a year ago, but I just started vaping again so... It was shockingly easy for someone who has never done anything like this before and the flavor and vapor are amazing! Glad I saved all my dirty atties from back then! Just need to clean 'em up and start rolling my wicks!
I made mine using about 28mm x 7mm of 400 gauge mesh wrapped around a paperclip. Then trimmed maybe 1mm that was sticking out of the top of the tube.
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