Cartomisers and Draw

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AlabamaWoody

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Feb 11, 2014
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Huntsville, Al ,USA
I have been using Smoktech Cartomisers from IB Tanked. Both 2.0 and 3.0 ohms. The draw is much easier with the 2.0 than 3.0. I prefer the 3.0 but the draw of the 2.0. Whats a vaper supposed to do :)

Does this vary by brand ? Anyone had the same experience ?

I fill mine by inserting a tooth pick and I drip liquid in and shake it downward about 5 times and put more liquid in slowly until I see the fist sign of seepage then I insert the cartridge into the tank and fill with liquid. This seems to work fine and I have also used the "thingy" to push in liquid but prefer the tooth pick method. I don't think I am flooding the cartomisers. They work fine.

Any suggestions ?

Thanks in advance !
 

Brend

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Dec 18, 2013
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Is the wire gage the determining factor in what makes it 2ohm or 3ohm?

I don't rebuild so I don't know if 3.0 equals thicker wire ( not always how things work ).

But a thicker wire running up through the entire length of center would change airflow.

I try not to get any eliquid down center when I prime as it seems to shorten the life of my cartos & cause tighter draw during use.
 

Baditude

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Apr 8, 2012
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Taste and draw can differ from different resistances (ohms) as well as from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Lower ohm coils use a thinner wire, and vice versa. They burn the e-liquid hotter (less electrical resistance), and may not last as long as a higher ohm coil might. (Thinner wire may pop prematurely from the heat.) I personally preferred a more cooler vape, so I liked higher resistance cartos.

Dual coils differ from single coils, too. I found that I didn't care for dual coils, as it seemed the upper coil might burn the polyfill wick if I didn't frequently top it off if it got dry during use. And you can never get the burnt taste out of a cartomizer once the filler has burnt.

Brand preferences are subjective. Ikenvape Platinum were my favorite, followed by Smoktech single coils. I never cared for Boges; their denser polyfill made filling more difficult and maybe had a tighter draw, too.

As stated before, every cartomizer manufacterer has seemed to have quality control issues at times. Making thousands of these things by hand lends to this problem. Ikenvape seemed to have the better quality control in my experience, but they are often out of stock due to their popularity. Having said that, prior to switching to rebuildable atomizers, my last five Ikenvapes were DOA. Since I began rebuilding coils, if my coils are bad, I have no one to blame but myself, as I made them.

Baditude's Cartotank Setup Guide
 
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I try not to get any eliquid down center when I prime as it seems to shorten the life of my cartos & cause tighter draw during use.

Go with what you like best as long as it works for you.

I have an assortment of tanks. Most are retired as better function and performance benefits arrive. The unused ones I never drips in the center when putting in a new one, but the in-use ones I do and don't - just depends on how I feel at the time I change them out. Mostly I think it is done after putting in one which is DOA. The replacement of the DOA winds up getting a little dripping upon insertion in order to rule out burnage death as the cause of the DOA's failure. Again, depends on my mood. Sometimes I do not want to wait 15 minutes after insertion when the DOA died, even after taking priming hits.
 
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