Can someone clarify how batteries work when it comes to using RDA's

[RamiVapes]

Ok so I'm fairly new to RDA's looking to get my first one this week and build for the first time
Im familiar with using certain types of Wires like kanthal 28 gauge and all that .
However i was reading on batteries today and it concerned me as it could be a safety hazard?
Basically I'm looking to build a coil with 0.8-0.4ohms ill decide later . I read up a little bit on Battery amp but couldn't fully grasp or understand it .

Is it really that much of a hazard , I'm planning on ordering the

Authentic Samsung INR18650-25R 3.6V 2500mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries
BATTERY CAPACITY (MFG RATED) 2500 mAh
BATTERY CHEMISTRY Li-Ion
BATTERY FEATURE Rechargeable
BATTERY FORM FACTOR 18650
BATTERY MAXIMUM VOLTAGE 4.2 V
BATTERY MINIMUM VOLTAGE 2.5 V
BATTERY RATED VOLTAGE 3.6V


Im also plan on using a Velocity Clone as well as Revolt clone RDA , on an stick 100w
Im definitely won't be vaping over 40 watts until later once I'm more experienced , I'm also sticking to VW and not VV as i heard its better for beginners in some way .

But i just needed someone to clarify if vaping on those specific specs with the battery i listed above would pose some sort of hazard or maybe I'm good to go and i don't need to worry about much . Is there anything i should do / watch out for ?

 

[sonicbomb]

Battery safety is paramount. If you abuse a battery it may vent. This means it will eject gas and electrolytes sometimes quietly, sometime violently. As someone who has experienced this I highly recommend you avoid the experience. Don't short circuit it, or use it in such a way that you draw too many amps from it. Be aware of how many amps your build/device is using, and choose a battery accordingly.

I think the battery you are describing is a Samsung 25R which is an excellent 20 amp CDR battery.
http://i.imgur.com/IwgJ3Id.jpg

I strongly suggest you consult ECF user Mooch's blog as he tests batteries and lists their genuine amp limits. A lot of companies exaggerate their specs. I personally would not buy a battery unless Mooch had tested it.
Mooch

Baditude is another resident battery expert, worth having a read of his blog too
Baditude

The iStick 100W uses two 18650s in parallel. This means that assuming you use two 25Rs you have a usable pool of 40 amps, and the combined runtime of 5000 mAh.

 

[RamiVapes]

Battery safety is paramount. If you abuse a battery it may vent. This means it will eject gas and electrolytes sometimes quietly, sometime violently. As someone who has experienced this I highly recommend you avoid the experience. Don't short circuit it, or use it in such a way that you draw too many amps from it. Be aware of how many amps your build/device is using, and choose a battery accordingly.

I think the battery you are describing is a Samsung 25R which is an excellent 20 amp CDR battery.
http://i.imgur.com/IwgJ3Id.jpg

I strongly suggest you consult ECF user Mooch's blog as he tests batteries and lists their genuine amp limits. A lot of companies exaggerate their specs. I personally would not buy a battery unless Mooch had tested it.
Mooch

Baditude is another resident battery expert, worth having a read of his blog too
Baditude

The iStick 100W uses two 18650s in parallel. This means that assuming you use two 25Rs you have a usable pool of 40 amps, and the combined runtime of 5000 mAh.

thank you for replying , i understand and Ill defo check out Mooch .
But in theory if the specs of the battery were accurate , would i be able to run the mod at around 30-40 watts smoothly on about 0.6 or so ohms without running into a problem ? Would i also have to be constantly changing my wattage depending on battery life because i think i heard somewhere the battery gets weaker the lower it is , or is 30 -40 watts low and steady enough to be able to consistently vape without having to make allot of alterations

 

[edyle]

Ok so I'm fairly new to RDA's looking to get my first one this week and build for the first time
Im familiar with using certain types of Wires like kanthal 28 gauge and all that .
However i was reading on batteries today and it concerned me as it could be a safety hazard?
Basically I'm looking to build a coil with 0.8-0.4ohms ill decide later . I read up a little bit on Battery amp but couldn't fully grasp or understand it .

Is it really that much of a hazard , I'm planning on ordering the

Authentic Samsung INR18650-25R 3.6V 2500mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries
BATTERY CAPACITY (MFG RATED) 2500 mAh
BATTERY CHEMISTRY Li-Ion
BATTERY FEATURE Rechargeable
BATTERY FORM FACTOR 18650
BATTERY MAXIMUM VOLTAGE 4.2 V
BATTERY MINIMUM VOLTAGE 2.5 V
BATTERY RATED VOLTAGE


Im also plan on using a Velocity Clone as well as Revolt clone RDA , on an stick 100w
Im definitely won't be vaping over 40 watts until later once I'm more experienced , I'm also sticking to VW and not VV as i heard its better for beginners in some way .

But i just needed someone to clarify if vaping on those specific specs with the battery i listed above would pose some sort of hazard or maybe I'm good to go and i don't need to worry about much . Is there anything i should do / watch out for ?

get at least 2 pairs of the batteries and keep the pairs married to each other, not mixed up.
You will get better performance by keeping the batteries married in pairs.


Lithium batteries are powerfull and should be respected.
Get a good charger.

I fried a charger once when I accidentally put one battery in backwards; instant shortcircuit; it wasn't an independent bay charger.

 

[edyle]

thank you for replying , i understand and Ill defo check out Mooch .
But in theory if the specs of the battery were accurate , would i be able to run the mod at around 30-40 watts smoothly on about 0.6 or so ohms without running into a problem ? Would i also have to be constantly changing my wattage depending on battery life because i think i heard somewhere the battery gets weaker the lower it is , or is 30 -40 watts low and steady enough to be able to consistently vape without having to make allot of alterations

0.6 ohms sounds comfortable.

no you wont have to be changing your wattage; (what you heard was probably referring to unregulated mods)

 

[RamiVapes]

get at least 2 pairs of the batteries and keep the pairs married to each other, not mixed up.
You will get better performance by keeping the batteries married in pairs.


Lithium batteries are powerfull and should be respected.
Get a good charger.

I fried a charger once when I accidentally put one battery in backwards; instant shortcircuit; it wasn't an independent bay charger.

I plan on buying a pack that comes with two , as the e leaf i stick 100w requires 2 to operate . However you can apparently charge your batteries with the Universal usb port like most basic mods inside the actually i stick . Does this pose any harm or hazard if i charge my batteries through my mod '?

 

[sonicbomb]

On a mechanical mod, as the voltage of the battery decreases, so does the power delivered to the atomizer.
You were talking about the iStick 100W which is a regulated device, not a mechanical. It will deliver the selected power level consistently until the batteries are ready to be recharged.
Some people prefer not to use the onboard USB charger, an outboard charger is definitely safer and probably better for the batteries.

volts X amps = watts
as the voltage of battery/s decreases, the chip in the mod will draw more amps to maintain the required wattage. So when doing your checks, allow for the amps the mod will be drawing from the battery/s when they are ready to be swapped out (no lower than 3.2 volts ideally).

40 watts on the iStick will be drawing about 10 amps from the two batteries when they are fully charged (4.2v), and about 14 amps when the batteries are ready to be swapped out (3.2v). So for the 25R that is well within it's safe limits. The coil resistance is not a factor in this calculation.

Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Of course if you are plan to use the RDA on a mechanical device, then different rules apply. Please ask.

 

[93gc40]

The battery doesn't care what TYPE of atomizer you use. All that matters is the number of amps you draw from it and how fast. That is determined by the coil and/or power level setting.

RDA built at .2 ohms will draw the same amps as a tank built to the same .2ohms.
RDA will draw the same amps at 40 watts as a tank will also.

Personally I would get a stand alone charger to use for general recharging. I would only use the onboard charger when the stand alone was unavailable.

 

[edyle]

I plan on buying a pack that comes with two , as the e leaf i stick 100w requires 2 to operate . However you can apparently charge your batteries with the Universal usb port like most basic mods inside the actually i stick . Does this pose any harm or hazard if i charge my batteries through my mod '?

I'd plan on getting a separate charger for the long run.
When you do use the usb charger, batteries are best allowed some .between discharge/charge activity. So don't get in the habit of plugging in the usb immediately after or during vaping, and preferably don't start chain vaping right after charging.

I have some 10 batteries, and 4 chargers (2 duals, and 2 single bay); on average I probably have 3 batts charging when I am home; I take batts off charger if I am going to work; I would have a lineup of batts waiting in line to go on charge - first in first out (FIFO); so batteries naturally get a chance to cool off before charging because they wait in line;
similarly, charged batts are in a line near my computer; freshly charged batteries go to the back of the line.

 

[RamiVapes]

On a mechanical mod, as the voltage of the battery decreases, so does the power delivered to the atomizer.
You were talking about the iStick 100W which is a regulated device, not a mechanical. It will deliver the selected power level consistently until the batteries are ready to be recharged.
Some people prefer not to use the onboard USB charger, an outboard charger is definitely safer and probably better for the batteries.

volts X amps = watts
as the voltage of battery/s decreases, the chip in the mod will draw more amps to maintain the required wattage. So when doing your checks, allow for the amps the mod will be drawing from the battery/s when they are ready to be swapped out (no lower than 3.2 volts ideally).

40 watts on the iStick will be drawing about 10 amps from the two batteries when they are fully charged (4.2v), and about 14 amps when the batteries are ready to be swapped out (3.2v). So for the 25R that is well within it's safe limits. The coil resistance is not a factor in this calculation.


Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Of course if you are plan to use the RDA on a mechanical device, then different rules apply. Please ask.

Thanks for replying however i have a couple of of more concerns


IF 40 watts is drawing 10amps is this divided upon both batteries so
5amps each batter since my mod will be holding (10 total)
or 20 amps each batter (40 total)

IF its 10 amps in total and my batteries combines are able to draw in 40 amps since each is 20 . does this mean ill be able to vape at 80 ohms as well , presuming i have the right build and coil at around 0.3 ohms or so ?


And also what battery charger do you recommend , something that is cheap . Can i charge over night ?

 

[sonicbomb]

Yes, the amp load is split over the two batteries. Assuming you use the Samsung 25Rs then the available pool of amps is 40.

When you say ohms I assume you mean watts. You will be able to run the iStick 100 at it's full 100 watts with those two batteries. It will be drawing 26.5 amps at that power rating, from the pool of 40a when the batteries are fully charged, 35a when they are down to 3.2 volts.
As I said, on a regulated device the resistance of the coil is not relevant. However using a larger higher resistance coil will potentially give you more surface area and vapor. 100 watts is a lot of power for most people.
Plug the numbers into Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators and see for yourself.

Ideally you will want four batteries, so you can charge two batteries while using the other two. Let the charged batteries rest for at least an hour before using them .
These batteries should be married. So label each set of two (Eg. 1A~1B, 2A~2B) and always charge and use them together.

A Nitecore D2 would be a good choice of charger. NEVER leave batteries of any kind charging over night, or unattended.

 

[Dlmdavid]

In a series circuit your voltages add up and your current stays constant, the istick 100w is two 18650s in parallel I believe? In a parallel circuit it is the opposite your voltage stays constant and your current is additive. Your batteries would have to have the exact same charge voltage on them for the current to be exactly equal but as long as you marry your batteries they should be pretty close to precise. Like sonicboom said, power divided by voltage is your current, this can be confusing though because your device might say 5 volts even though your batteries only have 3.5 volts of charge, that's because it's a regulated device so you treat it like two different circuits. At 50w on a .5 ohm coil my mod reads 5 volts. Ohms law says that is 10 amps, although my batteries have about 3.7 volts charge in series (7.4v). 50 divided by 7.4 is 6.8 amps. So 10 amps of current is flowing through my mod, but my batteries are only discharging 6.8 amps. Alternatively if my batteries were parallel I would have 13.6 amps of discharge from my batteries split between the two so it would still be 6.8 amps on each battery.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Batteries and Charges from APV Discussion

 

[folkphys]

Oops. Or something