Second that motion! Their website shows a carto tank, the Bayou, in development, but I've never had a really good vape off a carto.
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Second that motion! Their website shows a carto tank, the Bayou, in development, but I've never had a really good vape off a carto.
i think a lot of people use carto tanks for the driver or killer 705 now. i know i do hehe
RO25 Rollers had a different switch assembly design. These were all updated with early RO40-batch switches.
RO40/DI40 and newer have the same switch assembly design. Newer production batches have only slight design/material and production process improvements.
RO40/DI40 and newer have the same switch assembly design. Newer production batches have only slight design/material and production process improvements.
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If it's only the cap that feels hot (the battery is not hot to touch), it might be due to an oxidized and/or collapsed spring. Dirty/oxidized surfaces and inadequate contact force (collapsed spring) will translate into resistance and heat.
Brass, un-plated springs need to be cleaned periodically, especially if you are vaping with a low-ohm resistance.
The Roller is not VV/VW, so a comparison is not really meaningful. With a VV device, the desired voltage is applied directly on the load, and still, the actual (rms) voltage might be far from the set-point.
A mech device outputs the open circuit battery voltage minus some voltage that is lost on the internal battery resistance and the mod / atomizer. This depends on the current / atomizer resistance.
For example, a 1.5 Ohm resistance will usually result in a voltage drop in the range of 0.2-0.3 V. This is perfectly normal with mechs.
Note that VV/VW PVs *still* waste some power on their mechanical and electronic components, usually more than mechanical devices. This is not perceived, though, since the voltage/wattage on the atomizer resistance is kept constant.
You're probably using far too high of ohms for a mechanical mod if you're able to use it on an evic.
thanks mate i will try to check the drop voltage and show it here later.. btw i have a question about the switch (need to clear something in m head)
:
Part A - I have O-Ring below of this part (at the brass ring there).. I've seen before without O-Ring.. so which one is the latest?
Part B - This tiny rod when insert into the Part C hole, izzit too loose, or fits or too fit?
Part D - I think my switch dont have this part..
thanks in advance..
thanks mate i will try to check the drop voltage and show it here later.. btw i have a question about the switch (need to clear something in m head)
Part A - I have O-Ring below of this part (at the brass ring there).. I've seen before without O-Ring.. so which one is the latest?
Part B - This tiny rod when insert into the Part C hole, izzit too loose, or fits or too fit?
Part D - I think my switch dont have this part..
thanks in advance..
Part A - All Internal Switch Assemblies shipped with RO/DI50+ units have an o-ring mounted under the reinforcement ring.
Part B - It is supposed to have a loose fit, so loose that it may just fall out when the Axle (Part C) is tilted.
Part D - This is a liquid-sealing grommet which is sandwiched between the connector and the top hex contact. It is there to prevent leaked juice from entering the switch!
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So, when Bugged is out, one can simply remove the spring in the Roller and put Bugged on the bottom?
Since it's so close, I will wait for Bugged to be in production before I place my order
Since it's so close, I will wait for Bugged to be in production before I place my order
Hi theops,
Do you know when the polished Rollers will be in stock again? Moreover, where can people who dont use Facebook go to check for stock updates?
Also, do you have any future plans to sell the Switch Contacts (Contact Rod + 2 Hex Contact Pins) in a Rhodium plated version?
Thanks for your time.
Do you know when the polished Rollers will be in stock again? Moreover, where can people who dont use Facebook go to check for stock updates?
Also, do you have any future plans to sell the Switch Contacts (Contact Rod + 2 Hex Contact Pins) in a Rhodium plated version?
Thanks for your time.
Thinking about picking up a T3 tube to use Dingo in 18650 mode. 18650 is my favorite! The bottom cap is adjustable so there will be no battery rattle? Yes? Please say yes. I cannot stand rattle.
So, when Bugged is out, one can simply remove the spring in the Roller and put Bugged on the bottom?
Since it's so close, I will wait for Bugged to be in production before I place my order
Yes, when used with the Roller, the Bug can be used as a spring replacement. The standard version of the Bug, scheduled for released in a few days, does not fit in the standard 18350 Dingo, but it does fit when using the T2 extension in 18500 mode (with the spring removed)!
Polished parts are produced a bit more intermittently and have been out of stock for quite a while. However, like SS-P Dingos, we will do our best so that once they arrive they'll be more than enough to meet the demand.
We have practically eliminated stock updates / announcements for the last few months, since stock is updated almost constantly. SS-P Rollers and Custom Rollers/Dingos are the only ones that have been out of stock / limited for a long time, so as soon as they arrive we'll post announcements on FB, Twitter and also this thread!
Hi Smelly,
There is a bit of extra space in 18650 mode with 2 x T3 tubes. A single T3 is for 18350 batteries, so 2 x T3 gives an equivalent net length of 70mm plus a bit more.
The extra tube space can be used to house safety modules like the Bug, but if you want to eliminate rattle you can use the bottom cap disk adjustment anyway to bring the cap closer to the battery.
Hi Theops,
When using the Bug in a roller with an 18350, would there be a gap between the outer tube and the switch housing? and when will you release the bug? I need to get infected!
When using the Bug in a roller with an 18350, would there be a gap between the outer tube and the switch housing? and when will you release the bug? I need to get infected!
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