5 days vaping-observations and question..

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AttyPops

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Jul 8, 2010
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Passthroughs are kind of touchy. USB on a PC using standard spec is only rated for 500mA. 2.5ohm @ 3.7v = 1480mA. That's no good. Obviously you can output more on many, but you want something like an ipad power supply, though 1.5ohm would really push the limit of that (edit: Exceed the limit by 500mA). I'd go with something like the Leo or the Volcano, both have USB connections on the tip which will at least accept a charge thus reducing the load on your supply.

I can say the t-rex can handle 1.5ohm, which is also on liberty flights, the same people that sell the Riva 510.

I wish the vendors would come up with better terminology, since I've typed this explanation at least 20 times, and many others have also. No offense to you guys... it's a vendor explanation/terminology issue.

Basically there are two types of PT's.... a "real meaning of the word" "direct" 5 volt PT... no inline battery. It's 5 volts (the USB Standard) and it, of course, requires more amps since there is no battery to vape from. A wall wart (AC Adapter) with at least 2.0 amps (2000 mA) is recommended. Computer USB not recommended, even for USB 3.0 for 5 volt PTs.

The other, 3.7 volt PT is a battery driven device... you vape from the inline battery, not the USB port. The USB port is there as a trickle charger and only draws about 450 mA. Now, there could be variation by manufacturer/device, but in general that's how they work. So it's OK to use a properly functioning in-line battery PT on a computer USB port, since it is a 3.x volt PT using a battery.

So, "No-battery PT = No computer USB, 3.X volt battery PT = Feel free to USB!"

The plus side of these 3.x volt PT's is they often have a replaceable battery in-line (that's different from, say, the eGo style PTs). The down side seems to be a generally high failure rate (low MTBF). Hints include putting electrical tape on the end of the PT button area-cord connection (the part WITHOUT the battery in it) as strain relief on the cord, and keeping the button dry/juice-free.

The other way, of course, it to get a nicoStick type true 3.7 volt e-cig with a 14500 battery in it, and just use an external charger and spare batts. No cord, true 3.7 volts, $5.00 battery replacement, portable. There are other models like:

http://www.madvapes.com/Titanium-E-Power-Replacable-Battery-kit_p_2993.html

as 1 example.

The thing with the eGo, or Volcano units (They are great e-cigs, BTW) is that you replace the whole thing when the battery dies. I do like the mini-USB connector on the end.. more reliable.

So basically, a 3.x volt PT is really a 3.7 volt battery driven e-cig with a built-in charger. Not really a Pass-Through in the true sense of the term. Some have an all-in-one "battery" compartment (eGo + sized) , some have a slim "cig" with cord and a separate battery box. Some have replaceable batteries, some don't.

Some people (like me) just say "screw that cord!" and use an external charger with swappable 14500 batteries. I save my PT's for 5 volts and use a wall wart if I ever have a battery issue (seldom) or want to be plugged-in to AC for some reason. Oh, and I think that wall wart is a good idea anyway since A) you don't use up a USB port, and B) don't need a computer, and C) can use any AC plug.

To each their own.
 
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