Looks great!Here is how it looks with a mini Griffin from MalaysiaView attachment 663575
Looks great!Here is how it looks with a mini Griffin from MalaysiaView attachment 663575
The finishes are anodized and quite durable but not indestructible. The wrap, CF or leather, is coated with a rubberized layer that should prevent any loss of color. You can also get fitted silicone covers that fit quite well to add more durability.Hi.. newbie here need some information and brightness from all master here. After some time I using a dna chip now its time to try SX Chip. Really impressive about G Class and consider to taking one.
But there are some thing bothering me....
1. The problem is: I have a very acid sweat (I mean when I use jewelry like gold or silver, they will turn dark very quickly) and so also my several mod are having damage paint in 3 or 4 month, the only my last mod is an epetite dna 60 SS because there is no paint and only wood) the question is: Is the material of G class is good? I consider to take a black carbon but I has been thinking about a frame which ahve a grey paint. I also intresting about brown leather coffee because it has SS frame and feel classy I like it so much but the leather.... is that will have a lasting colour? I have no experience using a leather? And can be the leather be replaced? From what I heard if the material contact the liquid it will very quickly damage.
Will be very glad if someone can give a brightness. Thx
Reposting this, just in case anyone wants the old 6.6 firmware (I posted this awhile ago). This is the beta 6.6 firmware with the custom wallpaper stuff. Been using it for awhile. It has been working fine for me with one rather annoying exception, if you lock the device, there appears to be no way to unlock it without doing a battery pull (I might be missing something tho).
To be clear, this is not the new 6.6 firmware, this is the beta they released a month ago. I will modify the zip when the official 6.6 comes out so that folks dont have to go through yihi's terrible website and awful download speeds.
Read the instructions carefully because, as all yihi firmware updates for the G class have been so far, it has a big of a wonky installation process.
YIHI G 20170519 Driver and 5.5 & 6.6 firmware.zip
Password is ECF (all caps)
I zipped up the 05192017 driver (you MUST install this, you cant install with the previous version, there is a two step process and the old version will not allow you to perform the second step). Also included is the 5.5 and 6.6 firmware updates, in case you need to roll back.
Follow these directions explicitly, otherwise, you will have issues.
After you have installed the SXI software...
Make sure the SXI software is closed and your device is unplugged.
Unscrew your atty. Launch SXI software. Plug in your G class. Go to connect in the SXI software and make sure it sees the device as connected. If yes, go to upgrade, click the upgrade button. It will say you need to select a file. Point it to the 6.6 firmware update (this is the file that is 4 mb in size, should say 6600 in the file name). Click update again.
Once the update completes, your device will say Update UI....
Unplug your device and close the SXI software.
Launch SXI software. Plug in your G class. Go to connect in the SXI software and make sure it sees the device as connected. If yes, go to upgrade, click the upgrade system button. Point it to the 6.6 firmware update (yes, we have to do this a second time). Click upgrade system. This second update will take significantly longer.
If you have any issues, included is the 5.5 firmware, I do not know if you can simply roll back once 6.6 is installed. I do know that if you have any issues prior to the second part of the update process (where it says update ui), you can roll back.
Yes your missing something when unlocking. With it locked, press three times on power button, a lock should appear. Then flip the joystick down.
Yes your missing something when unlocking. With it locked, press three times on power button, a lock should appear. Then flip the joystick down.
Took a little getting used to but I like the childproof lock, annoying but, well, childproof.
First rule of G Club - Should always lock cold, kanthal or otherwise (also any Yihi). Perhaps your problem?I just like that there are really no huge issues to speak of other than a wattage readjustment that is always required when I rewick. Im vaping on an Aromamizer Plus dual coil setup, 40 watts currently, but it never fails, next time I rewick, Ill have to dial it up or down.
Also, it seems the material cannot be set to kanthal even in wattage mode...
It's not anodized as it's not aluminum, plus anodizing doesn't look like paint. I've been able to chip the paint off w/ a credit card which is impossible w/ anodized aluminum, there's zinc alloy underneath.The finishes are anodized and quite durable but not indestructible. The wrap, CF or leather, is coated with a rubberized layer that should prevent any loss of color. You can also get fitted silicone covers that fit quite well to add more durability.
Not exactly correct, yihi uses a floating resistance. While you can lock the resistance, the mod will change the locked resistance. The material shown on the screen cannot be set to kanthal. In wattage mode, it is not using a tcr value, I get that, but, the material type should still be able to be set to kanthal, or not show a material type in wattage mode as this is not relevant.
I understand resistance drift, this is different. Having to fire a 0.3 ohm coil at 55 watts, then rewicking (I know how to dry burn and clean coils) and having to drop to 40 watts because the vape is significantly warmer is bigger than resistance drift...
It's not anodized as it's not aluminum, plus anodizing doesn't look like paint. I've been able to chip the paint off w/ a credit card which is impossible w/ anodized aluminum, there's zinc alloy underneath.
Anodizing can only be removed chemically or with a whole lot of sanding. Anodizing is like applying an oxide with a current, since zinc resistant to oxide its harder to do, requires a different type of current etc. afaik it hasn't been done w/ mods. The "SS" looking ones have some kind of shiny paint on them.
Yes, I've seen it adapt it's lock but only after a big change in base resistance- like a different coil entirely, not exactly floating. Still best to lock because you're telling it your at the compensate temp at that time.
I agree that it should not display the material when in power mode. That's a bug on the first two wallpapers that they should fix.
If you are having to adjust 40 Watts that's not right. It's a bad connection in the atty or a bad mod- that is not normal. Are the resistance "locks" even close? I would exchange the mod.
This is what anodized aluminum would look like, like it's part of the metal now, & the finish shows throughI stand corrected. Call it "anodized looking" It has not chipped like paint but slowly ground away on the bottom as though it were anodized.