Wire came off on vapor flask v2 clone...need help on where it goes.

[Nailz]

Got a vapor flask v2 40watt clone about a week ago, had resistance jump around a little bit since had it, nothing real bad to concern me though, just thought it was my build, but today it would just keep coming up 'check atomizer' all the time, checked my atty on my ohm reader and another mod and it was fine.

So rather than deal with fasttech customer service, decided to open it up and see if could see the problem, as it turns out, they didn't solder the wire from the 510 to the board very well and the wire had come off the board.

Easy fix I thought, but not so easy, as not sure where it was soldered too, I think it is in the hole on the right in the white block at the bottom of the board, but never opening one of these up, just wanted to see if anyone could clarify that is where it is meant to go.

Picture of the board with wire flapping in the wind

 

[classwife]

Moved to Variable Voltage APV Discussion from Ecigarette Technical Issues

 

[roxynoodle]

Ok, its a DNA40 clone, right? See where your negative (black) 510 wire goes? The red one goes right next to it. I can see the spot it came off. Its just left of the black wire.

Eta: well, I think that's where it goes. This board isn't the same as an Evolv DNA40.

 

[Nailz]

No this is a v2 40 watt clone roxy, that wire seems way to long to be going at the top of the board I thought?

 

[roxynoodle]

No this is a v2 40 watt clone roxy, that wire seems way to long to be going at the top of the board I thought?

I was thinking that, too. The Evolve and clone Evolve boards have everything together. The 510 wires are next to each other, the fire button wires next to each other, etc. Makes it easy that way. Let me blow it up again and look closely.

 

[roxynoodle]

The spot that looks like something came off is the very bottom far left.

This is a strange board compared to everything in my mods. Would help if someone else with this mod would take a look for you.

 

[ChrisBBacon]

Would have to agree bottom left definitely not just left of the black 510 wire as that would be direct to the batteries meaning it would be permanently on not good lol
Best option is to get a multi meter and check for voltage when you fire it across the black wire and the contact you belive the wire came from then you'll know you have definitely got the right spot ☺
Shocking solder joints btw lol probably worth redoing the battery wires and negative for the 510 whilst u have it in bits

 

[tchavei]

Here is my bet :

It can't be the most left hole as I can see the ground wire there.



Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[roxynoodle]

Farther left, Tony. The last hole on the bottom left. That's the only place I can see on that pic that looks like it was previously soldered.

 

[tchavei]

Farther left, Tony. The last hole on the bottom left. That's the only place I can see on that pic that looks like it was previously soldered.

But I can see the ground wire coming out beneath that hole, at least it looks like it :/

Err... I see its the out wire... I have no idea then... It should be on the lower part though judging by the length of it.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Nailz]

Well it doesn't matter, I dropped a spot of solder in the middle of board, so really had it now, I did solder that wire to the middle hole as shown by tchaveri, but think my solder spot has messed it up completely now, to start with it just fired atty as soon as I screwed it down, but didn't show resistance or voltage, and then the screen stopped working, nevermind was worth a try and thanks for the help

Now got to decide on a new flask, as really did like it when it worked, don't think I want this same one though, as doesn't look very good work on it.

 

[roxynoodle]

Sorry to hear Whose version was this?

 

[Nailz]

This was fasttech V2 40 watt no TC version, been looking and not seeing anything to jump on, looked at focal, but they don't have a black with usb charging though.

 

[tchavei]

Arg, that sucks

I hope I wasn't a bad influence though :/

If you like your case, you could slap a genuine dna in it.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Nailz]

Arg, that sucks

I hope I wasn't a bad influence though :/

If you like your case, you could slap a genuine dna in it.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I thought about it, till I found out my soldering skills suck, so don't think I will chance it

 

[tchavei]

It's a matter of patience and a steady hand. Just take an old radio and dissolder every component and then reverse. If you don't know how to solder after that, you can give up.

You don't "transport" solder on the tip to the part you want to solder. You heat up the part and the board and add solder with your other hand. Impossible to have solder "drop" anywhere

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.