Dang, what the hell is that... just when I think I've seen it all. That things crazy looking.
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Why do many people seem to favor low-ohm coils?
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Dang, what the hell is that... just when I think I've seen it all. That things crazy looking.
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without actually seeing your setup , i can only assume the taste is due to hotspots.... too loose of a coil wrap, or shorts....
thanks. whats weird is that i dont get any bad taste at all if i use it on my provari at low voltage. its one of the best vapes ive ever had actually. thats what made me think there werent any hotspots. but maybe the hotspots are just undetectable at lower voltages. does that sound likely?
its possible....
electricity always takes the path of least resistance...
once you start raising the voltage, the current may jump through the coil if it can.
thats why people always suggest to check hotspots on a half drained battery, then recheck on a fully charged... (mechanical mod)
or on a VV mod, start at the lowest setting, and keep bumping it up every half volt or so, and rechecking....
Zen does a good YouTube video of setting up an SS coil on a Z-atty Pro with a Provari. as an example.
electricity always takes the path of least resistance...
once you start raising the voltage, the current may jump through the coil if it can.
thats why people always suggest to check hotspots on a half drained battery, then recheck on a fully charged... (mechanical mod)
or on a VV mod, start at the lowest setting, and keep bumping it up every half volt or so, and rechecking....
Zen does a good YouTube video of setting up an SS coil on a Z-atty Pro with a Provari. as an example.
right on. makes sense. the reason i never bumped up my voltage when i used the sub-ohm on the provari is because the vape was great at low voltage. i had no desire to raise it. then i hear about how great sub-ohms are on mechanicals. so i slap the sub-ohm on the mech and...well, it was disgusting. i guess its back to the ol drawing board. im gonna try to make a sub-ohm as perfectly as i can so itll taste good on a mech. i really want to see what all y'all have been clamoring about. not to mention those clouds. i want those clouds.
In my opinion, VV and Mech setups aren't interchangeable.
My Z-atty Pro on the Provari is set to 1.6Ω(30ga.) @ 4.1V
My RSST on my mech. is set to 0.8Ω(28ga.)
both on 500 SS mesh. both air-holes drilled out.
i just dont get the same satisfaction if i throw my RSST on the Provari, without changing up the coil.
you will eventually find your sweet spot.
if your pulsing, just remember to take your time... you can actually burn a hole through the SS mesh, and then its almost impossible to get rid of shorts on a burn through...
when pulsing, i dont touch the coil, i tap the mesh around the hotspot... not nudging or poking, just brushing, is usually enough to help the pulsing method....
My Z-atty Pro on the Provari is set to 1.6Ω(30ga.) @ 4.1V
My RSST on my mech. is set to 0.8Ω(28ga.)
both on 500 SS mesh. both air-holes drilled out.
i just dont get the same satisfaction if i throw my RSST on the Provari, without changing up the coil.
you will eventually find your sweet spot.
if your pulsing, just remember to take your time... you can actually burn a hole through the SS mesh, and then its almost impossible to get rid of shorts on a burn through...
when pulsing, i dont touch the coil, i tap the mesh around the hotspot... not nudging or poking, just brushing, is usually enough to help the pulsing method....
Sorry if this has already been answered and I missed it, or if it's later in the thread, but I may not get to it and really want to know this answer. And, I may not make it.
Disregarding the lifetime life of a battery. How about how long one fully charged batter will last? I use a provari right now.
Which will drain my battery faster?
1.3 Ohm coil at 4.2 V = 13+ watts OR 2.1 Ohm coil at 5.3V = 13+ watts?
If I understand a comment above, the 2.1ohm/5.3V would pull less amps (not knowing the circuit usage) and battery would drain slower. Yes?
Theoretically, and according to Ohms Law, you are correct. The 2.1 Ohm coil will pull less amps, and the battery would drain slower. However, this is where it gets confusing; and Ohms Law doesn't tell the whole story. The lower resistance coil, in this case the 1.2, may respond, heat up, and vaporize the juice faster, thus requiring the vaper to take shorter drags, in order to get a satisfying vape. So, in practice, the lower resistance coil may very well equal or surpass the higher resistance coil, in battery duration.
Dont forget to add wire gauge into the mix.... which also affects heat time... but i dont know if the affect is positive or negative....
Yep. It depends on the device, and the resistance. I use 28ga all the time on mechanical mods, at around .8 - .9 ohms. The response is great. But 28 ga, IMO, is worthless on VV and VW mods above about 1.5 ohms. The response is too slow.
Where electricity is concerned...Neither. They both will drain the battery at the same current. Conservation of energy says that if we have 13 watts at the coil then we need 13 watts from the battery....no matter what the resistance is.
However, the construction of the atomizer does play a pretty large part. Short draws mean less energy used. I am getting better battery life with a .5Ω coil drawing higher amps than I was with a .8Ω coil.
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I am confused too. I have some old EGO 600omh batteries and a new Vision spinner. What resistance would I use on the old EGO. I know I can run pretty much anything on the spinner.
Just for sh!ts & giggles... Let's throw in the fact that there is no such thing as a 100% efficient voltage converter. So, all other things held equal (output voltage & atty resistance), a regulated mod will drain the battery faster than a mechanical mod.
It's not so much about the the resistance itself... For example: You can have (#1) a 1.5 ohm coil wrapped with 36 gauge wire or you can have (#2) a 1.5 ohm coil wrapped with 28 gauge wire.
With atty #1 and your eGo battery, you should get a nice warm vape.
With atty #2 and your eGo battery, you won't get much at all... Not even you spinner will be able you put out enough power to deal with 28 gauge wire.
So, you have two attys, both with the same resistance, both with ENTIRELY different power requirements.
Long story short... The better question would be, "What wire should I use on on the old EGO?"... Answer: 34 to 38 gauge.
With the thinner wire and a coil in the 1.7 to 2.0 ohms range, you should be in pretty good shape. If you go much lower than 1.5 ohms, you risk killing the eGo battery.
HTH
I remember reading (on another forum) that you're supposed to vape between 8 and 10 watts, otherwise the juice gets too hot and can taste burnt. What's really going on here, is that just a myth, or is there some truth to that?
It depends... In the world of off the shelf cartomizers and clearomizers... Yea, that's probably pretty close. All the silly charts you see scattered around the web are based on these types of atomizers.
In the world of rebuildables, it's total bunk.
The reason is that off the shelf (non-rebuildable) atomizers use very thin wire in order to be compatible with eGos and little stick batteries. RBAs, on the other hand, tend to be rebuilt using much thicker wire. The thicker the wire, the more power (watts) are required to reach a given temperature. It not uncommon the see 28awg builds being pushed well beyond 25 watts.
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