Is there any particular advantage to lower-ohm coils? It seems to me that you could use higher-resistance wire and a lower voltage to produce the same amount of heat and consuming less power as well, making your battery last longer. Am I missing something here?
Why do many people seem to favor low-ohm coils?
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I think you are thinking of it backwards. Higher resistance would require more electricity to produce the same heat. Also I think some of these guys are trying to create a tiny storm cloud above their heads.. burning <1ohm coils at 10+ watts.. lol
Right, Stats. (congrats on your build!) Lower ohms require less power. It may/may not have started there; but, with mechanical mods, you get one voltage. So you build a coil of a resistance that suits your needs. The rest, I figure, is preference and trend.
edit: BTW my sweet spot is at 20-25 watts, although I'm happy up to 35.
edit: BTW my sweet spot is at 20-25 watts, although I'm happy up to 35.
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Battery life is all in the amp draw. A 3 ohm coil run at 6v gives 2A and 12 Watts. A 1 ohm coil run at 3.7V gives 3.7A and 13.69W. The higher ohm rig would give longer battery life (about twice as long), and easier on the battery.
Maybe if you were using two 3v batteries but not when you are powering a dc-dc converter to bump a 3.7v battery up to 6v. The boost circuit trades amps for volts from the battery and the efficiency of the board comes into play.
More than just the inefficiencies, there is also an increased amp draw from the battery to boost the voltage. If you are boosting a 3.7v source to 6v the circuit does this by drawing more amps from the source than it is applying to the load. What we don't have is any info on how much more current is pulled from the battery to boost voltage, but if we understand there is no free lunch in the conversion then it must be more efficient to use the battery at its native voltage.
sub-ohm RBAs usually have a lower gauge resistance wire than other normal atomizers. These wires tend to produce better flavor, vapor and throat hit than higher gauge res wires. This is what I believe, but I could be wrong. I happily vape at 25 watts with a 0.7 ohm AGA-T2 and a freshly charged battery on a mechanical.
Lower resistance (gauge) wires provides more surface area to be available for vaporization. More vaporization surface (at the right temp) increase the quality of the vape. Given the capabilities of our PV/batteries, sub-ohm resistance in coils allows for a lower gauge optimized wire temperature based upon available amp delivery as well as time to glow.
Heat or watts does not tell the whole story. It more about wire temperature.
I'm a little confused would someone want more coils at say 1.5 Ohms or less coils for the same Ohm load for more vapor? I realize that this would require two different Gauge wires.
More coils = more vapor.
Example: Same ohms - different wire. The top is a highly regarded HH.357 Cisco Spec. but you will need more amps to drive it.
You are correct: generally..
The thinner the wire the higher the resistance and the lower the wire-gauge (awg).
The more coils of a given gauge, the higher the sum of the resistance and the more wick is exposed to heat.
Up to a certain point: the more heat and vapor.
Now you start to consider wicking-speed/recovery and battery discharge-rates, power and amperage.
The thinner the wire the higher the resistance and the lower the wire-gauge (awg).
The more coils of a given gauge, the higher the sum of the resistance and the more wick is exposed to heat.
Up to a certain point: the more heat and vapor.
Now you start to consider wicking-speed/recovery and battery discharge-rates, power and amperage.
Is this the new ohm's law? Why would you need more amps to drive it... assuming the battery doesn't change, and the resistance of both coils are the same? Maybe I'm misunderstanding your explanation.
It comes down to mass/surface area and power. "Drive it"= response time and wire temp. A 32g wire of the same resistance will come up to vape temp much more quickly than 28g ie: less mass. This is the lag that people talk about with lower gauge wire. The other variable is heat sink/evaporative cooling. Since you have more surface area both exposed to air for evaporation and to the wick with material and ejuice (Heat sink), The coil will transfer more heat and the wire will run cooler. This is why people can vape lower guage wires at 25+ watts. No change to ohms law at all.
Hope that was clearer. More detailed explanation here if you are interested: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html
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I must respectfully disagree. The boost circuit is always running on VV / VW devices 5 volt device or 6 volt device is already boosted to the max. It then uses pulse width modulation to regulate lower voltages. Take a look at PBusardos reviews on VV devices. He hooks them up to his oscilloscope and you can see with the exception of its highest setting being a flat line, lower voltages pulse between low and high voltages to give the correct voltage. So 3 ohms at 6 volts has a lower amp draw than a 1.5 ohm 4.25 (both being 12 watts).
Mechanical mods are the same way of course difference being its at the batterys limit 3.7ish.
Low resistance devices really are set up for low voltage systems like egos, and mech mods. A 3 ohm carto on a 3.7 volt battery is only 4.5 watts where a 2 ohm LR carto is 6.8 watts. You get better vapor production and warmer vape with higher wattage. With a VV / VW device and the ability to select a volt / watt the 3 ohm carto will give you a better flavor, possibly similar possible better vapor production. They also tend to be less spitty than the LR cartos. LR benefits are they tend to heat up faster so you have less of a primer puff.
Outside of cartos and clearos is a different story IMO. All my Genesis devices are ULR or under 1 ohm, and I get the best flavor than a higher ohm setup.
I can see the logic in the link you posted. I only had trouble with your oversimplified statement about requiring more current to drive the same resistance (with an assumed same voltage). Anyone with any engineering background would rebut that statement.
All good.
There are so many variables at play here, we could have a really detailed technical discussion, but I didnt want eyes to glaze over based upon the OP's first question.
Um..
In a PWM system, you are slamming full voltage, (whatever it's [pumped] value) - and amp-draw, (same idea) - in short bursts, rapidly. This is why most folks use RMS to calculate the "true values": you are more-off-than-on, but when on you are on full-power and "Hi-Ho, Siiilver!". From what I can ascertain, most (if not all) of the VV/VW units can never manage a "full-on" because they still need the circuit/pump charge-time before discharge.
In any event, the OP should now be armed with his answers, so I apologize for replying in general.
In a PWM system, you are slamming full voltage, (whatever it's [pumped] value) - and amp-draw, (same idea) - in short bursts, rapidly. This is why most folks use RMS to calculate the "true values": you are more-off-than-on, but when on you are on full-power and "Hi-Ho, Siiilver!". From what I can ascertain, most (if not all) of the VV/VW units can never manage a "full-on" because they still need the circuit/pump charge-time before discharge.
In any event, the OP should now be armed with his answers, so I apologize for replying in general.
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