With that in mind, it appears that innokin got over that fear with the 134.
Volts or Watts??
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V^2/R = W
Voltage squared divided by Resistance (ohms) equals Watts.
A VW device merely adjusts the volts to get the setpoint watts. Whereas a VV device the user adjusts the volts himself, and whether aware of it or not thereby changes the Watts the device outputs.
Same result just a different method of control.
I have no idea the accuracy of either method but I choose to just adjust the resistance of the coils I build to get the vape I desire.
Voltage squared divided by Resistance (ohms) equals Watts.
A VW device merely adjusts the volts to get the setpoint watts. Whereas a VV device the user adjusts the volts himself, and whether aware of it or not thereby changes the Watts the device outputs.
Same result just a different method of control.
I have no idea the accuracy of either method but I choose to just adjust the resistance of the coils I build to get the vape I desire.
Volts and watts are two sides of the same coin, or (more precisely) two parts of the same equation, the third being resistance. But there's a big difference when it comes to e-cigs -- volts are set blindly, regardless of resistance, which means the same voltage will inevitably produce wildly different results with atomizers of different resistances. When you set your PV to a certain number of watts, on the other hand, the device does some calculations based on the resistance of the atomizer and sets the volts automatically. This is the magic, and it means that your coil heats up to the same temperature regardless of its resistance.
In short, volts are a dumb setting while watts are a smart setting. With volts, you have to do the calculations, with a chart you probably do not have handy, based on the resistance of your atty, which you may well not know. With watts, you don't have to know any of that -- the PV measures the resistance and calculates the right voltage. In other words, with watts you can just vape away without having to do extra work. That's pure win.
To draw an analogy with water, imagine that you have a kitchen faucet and a fire hydrant (that is, two different atomizers with two different resistances). What you want in both cases is 5 gallons a minute of water (or an atty coil heated to precisely the temperature that makes your juice rock for you). Using a specific voltage to get a specific vaping result is every bit as wrong as saying "I'll just turn the knob 1/4 of a turn" on both the fire hydrant and the faucet and expecting the same amount of water to come out. That will not happen, because the voltage / turns of the handle produce different results with different equipment.
Watts, on the other hand, let you say the equivalent of "I want precisely 5 gallons a minute", and you get exactly that. As I said above, pure win!
Watts are a no brainer.
In short, volts are a dumb setting while watts are a smart setting. With volts, you have to do the calculations, with a chart you probably do not have handy, based on the resistance of your atty, which you may well not know. With watts, you don't have to know any of that -- the PV measures the resistance and calculates the right voltage. In other words, with watts you can just vape away without having to do extra work. That's pure win.
To draw an analogy with water, imagine that you have a kitchen faucet and a fire hydrant (that is, two different atomizers with two different resistances). What you want in both cases is 5 gallons a minute of water (or an atty coil heated to precisely the temperature that makes your juice rock for you). Using a specific voltage to get a specific vaping result is every bit as wrong as saying "I'll just turn the knob 1/4 of a turn" on both the fire hydrant and the faucet and expecting the same amount of water to come out. That will not happen, because the voltage / turns of the handle produce different results with different equipment.
Watts, on the other hand, let you say the equivalent of "I want precisely 5 gallons a minute", and you get exactly that. As I said above, pure win!
Watts are a no brainer.
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Wouldn't watts be the dumb setting, as the PV does it all for you, where with volts you have to be smart?
Honestly, even when using the vw setting on my SVD, I still adjusted to taste. That varied depending on how I was feeling at a particular point in the day and other factors. No matter what mode you decide to use, you're still doing just that, adjusting to your personal preference. I never concern myself with the numbers, just the qualities of the vape. Once I get it to my liking, I look to see where I'm at. The reason both still exist and both on the same device is to appeal to a broader customer base. If you want to use voltage adjustments, it's there. If you want wattage adjustments, it's there too. If you want to alternate between the two, you're covered there as well.
Honestly, even when using the vw setting on my SVD, I still adjusted to taste. That varied depending on how I was feeling at a particular point in the day and other factors. No matter what mode you decide to use, you're still doing just that, adjusting to your personal preference. I never concern myself with the numbers, just the qualities of the vape. Once I get it to my liking, I look to see where I'm at. The reason both still exist and both on the same device is to appeal to a broader customer base. If you want to use voltage adjustments, it's there. If you want wattage adjustments, it's there too. If you want to alternate between the two, you're covered there as well.Well, I use the same clearos for everything (Evods), but since atomizer availability is a crapshoot, I have boxes of 1.8, 2.0, 2.2 and 2.5 ohm atties. And I have absolutely no idea which type of atty is in a given clearo at a given time (I have about 10 in my rotation). With VW, this doesn't matter at all -- I vape my RY4 at 8.0w and so I switch to that. I vape fruit juices at 7.0w and I click down to that. Done.
With VV, I'd have to know atty resistance, and I'd have to remember 4 "favorite" settings for each juice -- "I like my RY4 best at 3.5v with my 1.8 ohm atty, at 3.8v with my 2.0 ohm atty, at 4.2v with my 2.2 atty and at 4.7v with my 2.5 ohm atty". That's just silly. With VW, those number are 8, 8, 8 and 8, respectively. What could be easier?
With VV, I'd have to know atty resistance, and I'd have to remember 4 "favorite" settings for each juice -- "I like my RY4 best at 3.5v with my 1.8 ohm atty, at 3.8v with my 2.0 ohm atty, at 4.2v with my 2.2 atty and at 4.7v with my 2.5 ohm atty". That's just silly. With VW, those number are 8, 8, 8 and 8, respectively. What could be easier?
Yeah, vw is quite a bit more convenient in a lot of cases. It never was for me though. I was always adjusting up or down to suit my mood at a given moment.
You can only manually adjust one at a time because if you try to set three constants you can break ohm's law. You will be in either power or voltage mode. Ohms is a set value and the setting you dial in is the second set value, the third value will be determined by the PV based on the two constants. Basically if you are in power mode you are letting the unit set the voltage and vice-verse. Like previously said, two roads to the same destination but I have found power to be a coarse setting and voltage to be a fine setting.
From where I sit it goes like this...
If you always use the same "toppers" with the same resistance, adjusting volts or watts just doesn't matter.
If you adjust things up or down depending on the juice you are using at the time, it doesn't matter too much either.
But if you use different "toppers" with different resistances, and you prefer all of your juices to be vaped the same way...
Then you would likely prefer to set to the wattage you always like best and leave it there.
If you always use the same "toppers" with the same resistance, adjusting volts or watts just doesn't matter.
If you adjust things up or down depending on the juice you are using at the time, it doesn't matter too much either.
But if you use different "toppers" with different resistances, and you prefer all of your juices to be vaped the same way...
Then you would likely prefer to set to the wattage you always like best and leave it there.
I believe that one good question we really need to address here is why the coils are available in resistances ranging from 1.5 to 2.5. (Kanger specifically)
The 3.7 regulated voltage starter kits usually come with a 2.5 ohm coil. That's equivalent to about about 5.5 watts if you're using a single coil bottom clearomizer. The MVP 2 has a VW range of 6 to 11 watts and if you're using a 2.5 ohm coil with that, chances are you're going to get a burnt taste using the MPV.
A 1.5 watt coil may be the better choice with attys that sit on a limited wattage device. Especially in light of the fact that Kanger coils seem to always run about 3 tenths of an ohm higher that they're rated.
Reading a chart that converts ohm/voltage to watts is essential to understanding the relationship and, in my opinion, most don't really want to understand the relationship there and prefer to just set the voltage and go on with their lives.
BTW, assuming you were to get exactly the same amount of vape in a puff, you'll use the same amount of energy from the battery regardless of the choice of ohms that a coil is rated at and your battery would last just as long before needing recharging.
The 3.7 regulated voltage starter kits usually come with a 2.5 ohm coil. That's equivalent to about about 5.5 watts if you're using a single coil bottom clearomizer. The MVP 2 has a VW range of 6 to 11 watts and if you're using a 2.5 ohm coil with that, chances are you're going to get a burnt taste using the MPV.
A 1.5 watt coil may be the better choice with attys that sit on a limited wattage device. Especially in light of the fact that Kanger coils seem to always run about 3 tenths of an ohm higher that they're rated.
Reading a chart that converts ohm/voltage to watts is essential to understanding the relationship and, in my opinion, most don't really want to understand the relationship there and prefer to just set the voltage and go on with their lives.
BTW, assuming you were to get exactly the same amount of vape in a puff, you'll use the same amount of energy from the battery regardless of the choice of ohms that a coil is rated at and your battery would last just as long before needing recharging.
Actually, 6 watts on a 2.5 ohm coil is only 3.9-ish volts. You wouldn't get a burnt taste from using the MVP on its lowest setting, you could actually go all the way to 11 watts, and not have an issue with a 2.5 ohm coil as long as you are getting good juice flow to your wick.
Trouble is, with most 2.5 coils actually read a few 10ths higher. With my MPV 2 I'll have to switch to 3.3 to 3.5 volts as the VW just won't go low enough. I'm soon to run out of 2.5 ohm coils and won't be need 'em any longer due to this.
So I am using a ProTank coil at 2.8ohms on my MVP 1 at 4.5 volts and taste great. Lots of vapor and no burnt taste and could lasting around 2 weeks
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There's lots of variables to deal with in any situation. Your juice could very well account for the different experience. Nothing is written in stone with these things.
yeah, I'm still saying watt??? and I keep trying to figure out watt watts are gonna get me where. but after reading this thread I'm feeling like I gots a better grasp on this now. See I just got my iTaste vv vw today and I'm like "why is it that I can change both watts and voltage and how do they relate to each other?" But I'm gonna keep looking around to see if what was said on this thread is being said on others. just for more confirmation. Thanks OP! Thanks guys and gals!
If someone would take the next logical step and make a VV/VW/VA mod it should make these threads all the more interesting.
VA... Nothing could ever go wrong there. Lmao. That would definitely make these threads hot. Lol.
It actually makes as much sense as VW. High amps for vapor production or low amps for flavor/batt. conservation.
Think of it this way: Watts is an automatic transmission, volts is a manual transmission.
The wattage setting will control the voltage based on what resistance atomizer you're using. The voltage setting requires you to do the controlling manually.
The wattage setting will control the voltage based on what resistance atomizer you're using. The voltage setting requires you to do the controlling manually.
VA makes a lot of sense. For a given type and gauge of wire, a certain current will have the same heating effect, regardless of the length of the wire.
Even VW doesn't do that. With the same wattage, a three turn coil and a nine turn coil dissipate the same power, but the larger coil does it over a wider area, so they are not heated the same.
With VA if you want more vapour, you just add more wire.
Even VW doesn't do that. With the same wattage, a three turn coil and a nine turn coil dissipate the same power, but the larger coil does it over a wider area, so they are not heated the same.
With VA if you want more vapour, you just add more wire.
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A lot of people are still having a hard enough time figuring out how to work with VW and you want to throw VA into the mix ... more interesting ... Our poor mods!!!
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