Voltage, Wattage, and resistance - ahhhhhhh!!!!

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moze229

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Is there someone that can point me to a reference that explains all of this? I've always used simple devices (cig-alikes and eGos) and didn't really care about all of this. I got my first out of date MVP 2.0 today. I realize it's old and it's like old hat and all that, but it's the first device that I've had that has settings for wattage and voltage. When I buy coils, I have the option of 1.6, 1.8, or 2.2 ohms. (I'm using 2.2 right now and it seems fine.)

It regards to vaping, what is the difference between wattage and voltage? They both increase power, right? What's the added value to be able to change either/or? I'll be experimenting, but if someone could lead me to a quick reference that would be great. Thanks!
 

bwh79

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It regards to vaping, what is the difference between wattage and voltage?
The difference is in which number you want to be displayed in bigger print on the screen. You can adjust in watts (and the applied voltage will be changed to achieve that wattage) or you can adjust in volts (and the derived wattage will change to reflect that voltage) but they are tied to each other by the resistance of your atomizer. The equations that are used are:

Watts = Volts * Volts / Ohms
Volts = sqrt(Watts * Ohms)

So if you have, for example, a 2-ohm atomizer, and you set your device for 8 watts, it's going to apply sqrt(8 * 2) = sqrt(16) = 4 volts to achieve those 8 watts. The device may or may not say "4.0v" somewhere in smaller letters. (The MVP2 doesn't, but some others do.)
On the other hand, if you are setting it in voltage mode and you set for 4v you are going to be getting 4 * 4 / 2 = 8 watts out of it. The device may or may not read "8w" somewhere in smaller letters.

The choice of coils is really going to come down to personal preference. Lower-ohm coils are going to have fatter wire that puts out more vapor (more surface area) but takes longer to heat up (more mass). Higher-ohm coils will be just the opposite, with skinnier wire and a faster ramp-up time but less surface area in contact with the liquid making less vapor output overall. It used to be, with fixed-voltage and unregulated devices, that low ohms were required in order to achieve high power output. These days, with wattage-regulated mods that's no longer the case. You can put on any atomizer that you want, and crank up the voltage as high as it will go. That's not necessarily a good idea, though. If you try to run too much power through the skinny wire of a higher-ohm coil, it might run too hot and burn out the coil. Also you may be limited by the voltage output. A device might have an output limit of say, 8 volts, for example. So if you try to put a 2-ohm atomizer on and set it for 50 watts (your device doesn't do 50 watts, but lots of others do) then it's not going to happen. That would require 50(watts) * 2(ohms) = 10 volts to achieve, but the device can only output 8 volts, so the most you're going to get from 2 ohms is 32 watts (8 * 8 / 2). Put a .5 atomizer on that same device, though, and then 50 watts is only sqrt(50 * .5) = sqrt(25) = 5 volts, well within the available range.

The last (well, first really) thing you need to know about is battery safety. All batteries have an amp limit, and you need to know what that limit is and how to stay underneath it. On a wattage-regulated device, the amp drain is equal to:

Amps = Watts / Volts

Note that this "volts" is the charge state of the battery, and not the voltage applied to the atomizer. Note that as the voltage increases, the amp drain decreases. That means your amp drain will be highest, when the battery is at its weakest charge state. So for safety's sake, assume a low-voltage cutoff of 3v under load. Take the maximum wattage your device will do, and divide that by 3v. I think the MVP2 does up to 11 watts, so 11 watts / 3 volts = 3.67 amps. This should be plenty low enough for the built-in battery on your device, but on some other devices with higher power outputs and user-replaceable batteries, you need to know your stuff because the amp draw can be up around or even over 20 amps, which is just about the limit for any battery we have available. (*In voltage mode, you will need to calculate the applied wattage at your set voltage, and then divide that by the battery voltage to find your correct amp draw.)

The last calculation, doesn't really apply to you because it's for mechanical or unregulated devices, is the classic "Ohm's law" equation:

Amps = Volts / Ohms

This is for use with unregulated devices, where raw battery power is just dumped into your atomizer without any circuitry in between. For this notice that the amp draw is higher when the volts are higher and the ohms are lower. In this case you would always use 4.2v as in a fully-charged battery. A .5 ohm coil on a fresh battery would, for example, draw 4.2v / 0.5Ω = 8.4A.

Finally, let's take one last look at that first equation: Watts = Volts * Volts / Ohms. Notice it contains the term "Volts / Ohms," which we've just discovered is also the Amperage. Therefore, another way to write it would be:

Watts = Volts * Amps (Note that this is the same as the "Amps = Watts / Volts" that I said earlier, just rearranged a little bit.)
 

Susan~S

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moze229

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The difference is in which number you want to be displayed in bigger print on the screen. You can adjust in watts (and the applied voltage will be changed to achieve that wattage) or you can adjust in volts (and the derived wattage will change to reflect that voltage) but they are tied to each other by the resistance of your atomizer. The equations that are used are:

Watts = Volts * Volts / Ohms
Volts = sqrt(Watts * Ohms)

So if you have, for example, a 2-ohm atomizer, and you set your device for 8 watts, it's going to apply sqrt(8 * 2) = sqrt(16) = 4 volts to achieve those 8 watts. The device may or may not say "4.0v" somewhere in smaller letters. (The MVP2 doesn't, but some others do.)
On the other hand, if you are setting it in voltage mode and you set for 4v you are going to be getting 4 * 4 / 2 = 8 watts out of it. The device may or may not read "8w" somewhere in smaller letters.

The choice of coils is really going to come down to personal preference. Lower-ohm coils are going to have fatter wire that puts out more vapor (more surface area) but takes longer to heat up (more mass). Higher-ohm coils will be just the opposite, with skinnier wire and a faster ramp-up time but less surface area in contact with the liquid making less vapor output overall. It used to be, with fixed-voltage and unregulated devices, that low ohms were required in order to achieve high power output. These days, with wattage-regulated mods that's no longer the case. You can put on any atomizer that you want, and crank up the voltage as high as it will go. That's not necessarily a good idea, though. If you try to run too much power through the skinny wire of a higher-ohm coil, it might run too hot and burn out the coil. Also you may be limited by the voltage output. A device might have an output limit of say, 8 volts, for example. So if you try to put a 2-ohm atomizer on and set it for 50 watts (your device doesn't do 50 watts, but lots of others do) then it's not going to happen. That would require 50(watts) * 2(ohms) = 10 volts to achieve, but the device can only output 8 volts, so the most you're going to get from 2 ohms is 32 watts (8 * 8 / 2). Put a .5 atomizer on that same device, though, and then 50 watts is only sqrt(50 * .5) = sqrt(25) = 5 volts, well within the available range.

The last (well, first really) thing you need to know about is battery safety. All batteries have an amp limit, and you need to know what that limit is and how to stay underneath it. On a wattage-regulated device, the amp drain is equal to:

Amps = Watts / Volts

Note that this "volts" is the charge state of the battery, and not the voltage applied to the atomizer. Note that as the voltage increases, the amp drain decreases. That means your amp drain will be highest, when the battery is at its weakest charge state. So for safety's sake, assume a low-voltage cutoff of 3v under load. Take the maximum wattage your device will do, and divide that by 3v. I think the MVP2 does up to 11 watts, so 11 watts / 3 volts = 3.67 amps. This should be plenty low enough for the built-in battery on your device, but on some other devices with higher power outputs and user-replaceable batteries, you need to know your stuff because the amp draw can be up around or even over 20 amps, which is just about the limit for any battery we have available. (*In voltage mode, you will need to calculate the applied wattage at your set voltage, and then divide that by the battery voltage to find your correct amp draw.)

The last calculation, doesn't really apply to you because it's for mechanical or unregulated devices, is the classic "Ohm's law" equation:

Amps = Volts / Ohms

This is for use with unregulated devices, where raw battery power is just dumped into your atomizer without any circuitry in between. For this notice that the amp draw is higher when the volts are higher and the ohms are lower. In this case you would always use 4.2v as in a fully-charged battery. A .5 ohm coil on a fresh battery would, for example, draw 4.2v / 0.5Ω = 8.4A.

Finally, let's take one last look at that first equation: Watts = Volts * Volts / Ohms. Notice it contains the term "Volts / Ohms," which we've just discovered is also the Amperage. Therefore, another way to write it would be:

Watts = Volts * Amps (Note that this is the same as the "Amps = Watts / Volts" that I said earlier, just rearranged a little bit.)

Wow. THANK YOU! That about covers it. LOL I'll have to read it a few times to take it all in, but thanks for typing all of that! I actually always said that I'd never get into this whole box/mod-box stuff so I never worried about it. I found this new at a really good price so I decided to pick one up.

Thanks again.
 

moze229

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petrotech

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Lots of good info to read above, so I'll just add my 2 cents:

I don't use regulated (variable volt/variable watts) devices very often, but when I do I prefer "variable volt" mode. The reason is because sometimes the resistance of the coil changes (normally very minor changes +/- .1 ohms), and if the mod is set the "wattage mode", it's going to increase or decrease the voltage to make enough watts. I find that leaving it in " voltage mode" has a more consistent vape.
 

Grimwald

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The advantage of using watts vs volts...let's say you set it at 8 watts. It won't matter too much which coil you use as the MVP will adjust the volts to get to 8 watts (approx 4.2 volts with 2.2 ohms). But, on voltage mode, you would need to adjust the voltage depending on the coil to get 8 watts.

Watts is more of a set and forget mode.
 

sawlight

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Using the high ohm coils you are using, go back to the old school method, the resistance of the coil +2=volts. So a 1.8 ohm coil, add 2, that's 3.8 volts.
Wattage, as said above, it was sold as "set it and forget it", with the line of thought every juice and atomizer was going to act the same. So you set the device at 12 watts with a 1.2 ohm coil, you take that off and put on a 1.8 or 3 ohm coil, it's still going to be at 12 watts.
Again, using the coils you have, I'd suggest starting around 11 watts, then going up from there, but not above 20 watts. Most of those old coils just wont have the airflow, or juice flow, that the newer atomizers will have to take the higher wattage.
This should give you a decent base line for getting started at least.
 
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