- Status
Don't really know what you are getting at Jahim, but for vaping power settings I prefer this chart.
Find your sweet spot in watts and you never need to adjust voltage again! Your VPD [variable power device] will automatically adjust to the correct voltage no matter what ohm coil you switch to.
You just described the function of a VW device. What would the chart you linked to be used for?
I see where he's coming from. I bought the twister because the tanks I buy come with 2.5ohm coils, and I like the 1.8s. Rather than toss the original ones, I figured I'd just apply more voltage. It's simple math, but a chart helps.
I did one of those charts, keeping the range of resistance and voltage options to those most commonly used in my devices.
Voltage or wattage, it's still a volume control for vapor production. We all find a different favorite spot on the dial according to taste. Somewhere in the green zone is where you'll find me.
Dual coils are wired in a parallel circuit, meaning that resistance is split between the two. This means that two coils with 3.2 ohms resistance yields a circuit with an actual resistance of 1.6.
The total resistance is the number you read on the vertical axis of the chart.
If you have a VW device the chart is to help explain how many volts = watts at what ohm atty you prefer so.. I could have my device set to 4.4 volts but every time I switch to a different resistance [ohm] atty I would have to adjust my voltage to find my sweet spot again. But when I use watts or power mode I can set my device at 9.5 watts [equal to 4.4 volts] and no matter what different resistance atty I use the device will automatically adjust the volts to match the resistance [staying at my sweet spot]. I have a Vamo V3 so its cool that the device will remember my watts setting after a battery change but it wont remember volts settings so it just makes everything easier and I think vaping in power mode [watts] makes for a smoother vape.
On that note, would love to find a chart that related wattage to temperature with the various heating element materials.
If I understand you correctly, you are looking for something kind of proprietary. About all you will find is charts that show wattage for a given voltage and resistance. Efficiency would enter in for top and bottom coils, dual vs single coils, and various different designs for cartos and tanks with different wattages for top coil/bottom coil and filler vs wick. Calculations are pretty much just a guideline and personal preference begins to enter into design preferences. A given wattage will produce a much different vape on a top coil device compared to a bottom coil atomizer.
But, you probably already knew that.
If using dual coils...
On VV - double the ohms 1st, then look it up. So for example, on a 1.5 ohm DCC use the 3.0 line for ohms to find the voltage range.
On VW - Double the watts if you can (the watts are split between the 2 coils). So instead of 7 watts, you'd want 14. Unless it has a DC setting of some type and does this for you. However, if you screw on a single coil after doing that....pop.
Of course, you still end up adjusting to taste & preference.
Last edited:
That would be great, but not so easy to create. It's not just wattage and element material that determine temperature. Element surface area, element shape, how much fluid is on the element and wick material all come to mind. Lots of variables!
Last edited:
Same one I have been posting
http://www.ecigadvanced.com/community/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/power.jpg
For those vaping 10 watts and over, remember that we use 10 to 25 watt soldering irons to melt solder and service delicate parts on some mini circuit boards. As long as your coil is fully wetted, it shouldn't be a problem, but consider the warning on the charts for the pink ranges.
"Power level may melt nichrome wire or solder"
At really high wattage part of that vapor may not be coming from the PG or VG. Then there's silicone seals that hold the wire to the bottom contacts. I've seen burning occur where the wire touches the silicone. Let's hope that it's charred juice. The nichrome wire can get red hot from one end to the other, not just around the wick, if it isn't in contact with something to sink the heat.
"Power level may melt nichrome wire or solder"
At really high wattage part of that vapor may not be coming from the PG or VG. Then there's silicone seals that hold the wire to the bottom contacts. I've seen burning occur where the wire touches the silicone. Let's hope that it's charred juice. The nichrome wire can get red hot from one end to the other, not just around the wick, if it isn't in contact with something to sink the heat.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
