vaporshark rdna40 temp control
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My first ni200 builds were .12Ω and they were fine but I tried some .18Ω builds (12-14 wraps, 3mm ID) and they seem to be warmer but most likely hot legs since the coil is so big. I went back to 9-10 wraps with 3mm ID. It's easier to separate the coils and less of a chance to get hot spots. I would suggest trying a new build. Make sure the coils aren't touching and that the deck screws are tightened firmly. The DNA40 is very sensitive.
hey KTM, i'll try your advice with Ni, but rite now i'm using 2 strands of Ti 30 ga twisted in a drill at 7 wraps on a 3/32 bit coming out at .28 using Rayon with my temp setting at 370, man it's hitting great
From DNA40 datasheet....
Atomizer Resistance, temperature sensing wire, cold
.10 Ohm Min
.4 Ohm Typical
1.0 Ohm Max
Atomizer Resistance, temperature sensing wire, cold
.10 Ohm Min
.4 Ohm Typical
1.0 Ohm Max
talk to me retird, school me my friend, this puppy is brand new to me, yet i know i love it!
surely do appreciate the link but it's all Greek to me, can you tell me in layman's terms what i need to do, thanks!
Good luck trying to fit a .4 Ohm "Typical" coil, in any atomizer
From your posts sando7 you seem to have a pretty good handle on Ti coils....I don't build nickel coils so maybe some one will jump in and help ya out.... I just do fiddle free TC vaping...
i'm quite happy with the .28, like i said earlier it hits like a mack truck.....haven't even tried Ni yet, but i would like to, thanks man.
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I'm thinkin' you will get the hang of it quickly with nickel as you already have a great Ti coil...
well i'm sorta in beer drinking mode today so i'll prob wait till tomorrow and i'll give er a go, figure i'll twist 2 strands of 28 ga Ni in my drill at about 12 to 14 wraps on a 3/32 bit and see where i come out at.
Yep.... nickel coil building may be like.....,. drinking and driving... LOL... tomorrow sounds like a plan...
If you're gonna twist, go with 30g ni200. 28g is too thick for twisted, IMO. I tried twisted 30g and straight 28g. I don't want to make a career out of building coils so I stick to straight 28g, spaced on 3mm ID coil maker. I found no benefit for twisted wire and it wasn't any stiffer than 28g. Yes, it's more delicate than kanthal but it's not going to collapse when you breath on it.
I was playing with higher ohm coils (.16Ω - .20Ω) and they're way more trouble than it's worth. It's really hard to keep the coils spaced on a deck with a wick and putting the chimney on (KF v4). I always seem to get hot legs or something and more crud that keeps burning after I let go of the fire button. Enough that I can take another puff w/o pressing the fire button. The atomizer also seems to get hot faster and stay hot (reason I think I keep getting hot legs). last .13Ω coil is on it's 3rd tank and works like a champ. I think I'll stick with my .12Ω - .13Ω coils from now on. (28g ni200, 9-10 wraps around 3mm ID, rayon wick)
I was playing with higher ohm coils (.16Ω - .20Ω) and they're way more trouble than it's worth. It's really hard to keep the coils spaced on a deck with a wick and putting the chimney on (KF v4). I always seem to get hot legs or something and more crud that keeps burning after I let go of the fire button. Enough that I can take another puff w/o pressing the fire button. The atomizer also seems to get hot faster and stay hot (reason I think I keep getting hot legs). last .13Ω coil is on it's 3rd tank and works like a champ. I think I'll stick with my .12Ω - .13Ω coils from now on. (28g ni200, 9-10 wraps around 3mm ID, rayon wick)
that's cool KTM, yet i only use drippers, i also have several dna40 devices (5) and i have discovered for my taste i like higher resistances.......just for kicks last night i twisted 2 strands of 28ga Ni and did 12 wraps on a 3/32 bit and it came out @.086 using it on my Helios and my IPV4.....i get higher resistances with Ti, then i use the double-twisted grade#1 30ga.....7 wraps of this on a 3/32 bit gives me .28.........i just want to experiment a bit w/Ni yet i will always use Ti as my main wire.
Enjoying mine for the past few weeks, although I purchased mine from their scratch and dent section. Bit of cosmetic damage on top is the only thing I can tell about it so far have used it quite frequently with no hiccups whatsoever. But I will say its a freakin tight squeeze to put on the sharkskin on and off that I often just leave it off to switch batts.
I was hoping so, makes sense because my silicone case for the the sig 150 is loose enough to come off if I put it in my back pocket
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