Tank for the SMPL mod.

[jawswing]

I'm pretty new to vaping, I started out last month with a Vamo V6, but I'm not too pleased with it. Battery runs out too fast and after in drains out a bit, you get a lot less from it. Started gradually moving back to cigs.
So I've bought a SMPL mod on the advice from my friend, decided to throw my Subtank Mini on it, and it didn't work. Tried another battery and it did work (and was brilliant from what I've tried), and when I got to recharging it and putting it back in, it shorted again. Which is what I assumed happened to the first battery as that doesn't work now either. A little bit of research online, and it's because the 510 pin on the subtank isn't long enough, and it's shorting out due to that. Obviously that can be incredibly dangerous.
I'm pretty new to vaping, and an RBA/RDA doesn't appeal to me. Yet...
So I'm just looking to see if anyone knows of a basic tank that'll work with a hybrid/SMPL mod before I go purchase another. From pictures the Delta II's pin seems to be longer than my Kanger. But I can't really tell.

Failing that, any recommendations for a none hybrid mechanical mod, that hits hard, whilst not being too big?

 

[GaG8tor]

Don't know if you've heard it or not, but being new you definitely are going to hear it. SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY. I'm talking battery safety. Shorts are not a good thing on mech mods. You need to understand ohms law and battery safety. Dig around here a bit and learn all you can. There are numerous charts which will give you good information regarding battery safety as to amperage draw and discharge rates. I'm no expert and there could be numerous causes for your shorts such as whether you're using flat top or button top batteries. Sounds to me like the 510 connection and battery are not making good contact but there are other numerous possibilities. Welcome to the forum. There are a lot of great people here and good information. Whatever you do remember first and foremost, SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY.

 

[jawswing]

Yeah, that's pretty much the reason I'm here. To be honest, I do know very little about the whole mechanical mod business. I've got the Vamo, but I'm just not happy with it at all. It's too big, the batterys too small, I can fit a bigger battery in it but that just makes it even bigger.
Which is what drew me to mechanical mods. The SMPL looked pretty much perfect, not much bigger than a 18650 battery. I just weren't aware of the 'hybrid' design at the time of purchase.
My friend has one and he's using it with an Atlantis tank, but from what I've read online people still got shorts with them. Unless I can find a suitable tank I don't think I'm going to use this at all, which would be a shame.
I suppose my other option would be a hybrid adapter, would that affect performance though?

 

[Riku]

well i can tell you right off the bat don't get the lemo. Yes there is an adjustable 510 screw on it but there has been issues about that making the resistance jump around. Yesterday i just got an SMPL and threw my lemo on it with the adjustable 510 screwed all the way in. Knew right away it was shorting or not making good contact because the atty wouldn't fire and i got instant heat/venting from the battery. i've done lots of research and read up on the forums everyday so i knew what was up. still being my first mech it made me extremely nervous so i ripped the battery out and chucked it in the snow lol. I then backed the 510 screw out on the lemo and now it makes an ok connection but honestly the vape quality sucks on it compared to my ipv mini v2 or even istick. honestly i only got it for the form factor but yeah just a heads up.

 

[GaG8tor]

I honestly can't answer that question. I don't know a great deal about it myself. Hang on to your SMPL though. I hear they are really good mods. As you progress you may want to get into rebuildable atomizers and such. I've been vaping a little over a year now. I just got my first rebuildable and the guy at the shop helped me build my first coil. It's a 1.2 ohm single coil and I'm using an Mvp 20 watt. If you're not opposed to a box mod I would highly recommend the MVP. You may want to consider the new 30 watt. It will allow you to use subohm coils when you are ready for them. Your sub tank should give you an awesome vape with this device and Innokin's reputation for quality control is second to none. I noticed you say your batteries died. Died as in they won't charge? If that's the case, get rid of them now by taking them to a safe recycling facility. Welcome again. You'll get the answers you need here.

 

[BigC52]

I agree. Hang on to the smpl. I have an authentic and it's the ultimate carry mech.

 

[GaG8tor]

After re reading your first post, it sounds like you may have gotten some bad batteries to start. If you have a good B&M near you I would go there and see if they can check them out for you. At a good shop, the associates will take time with you and answer questions no matter how much money you spend or don't spend.

 

[GaG8tor]

And always do research online before buying any device. I've seen places charging double and triple what you will pay online. Small stuff like coils wicks and wire to me is no big deal. I'm all about supporting local small business, but I'm not gonna pay seventy dollars for thirty dollar device.

 

[BigC52]

What batteries are you using? You can get away with Samsung 25r's or LG HE4's as long as you stay above .25ohm, which I doubt you'll be running anytime soon. Clean the mod tube and button. Grease the 510 threads and button threads with dielectric grease.

 

[BigC52]

I highly recommend those batteries if you aren't going super low and throwing a crap ton of current.

 

[jawswing]

Yeah, I'll be keeping hold of my SMPL. It does look awesome, and for the time that it did work, the vape was 100 times better than my Vamo.
I think a rebuildable atomizer would be the next step for me. It looks like it is definately going to be something I'll get in to, I just think it's a little too soon, and I need to do a little more research on them before I jump right in.

Yeah, the batteries died. Didn't notice the first battery shorting out, the mod didn't seem to get hot at all, the second battery did though. Threw them in a charger and it's telling me they're fully charged (I'd been using the other one in my Vamo), and tried them again in the Vamo and none of them are doing something. Definately dead.

Just hoping I can get a normal, easy tank that'll be compatible with the SMPL though.

I were using the Sony VTC5's (that I bought from eBay, if they were real or not I'm not entirely sure?).

Won't be going below 0.25Ohms for a while atleast, not when I'm using these tanks.

The batterys could have been fakes, I'm not sure. But I'm sure it's the Kanger tank shorting it out. The pin in the 510 thread doesn't really seem to stick out enough. And I think the batterys are being shorted on there.

Spent the last day or so looking for forums online with compatable tanks, but the only thing I could seem to find are that the Aspire Atlantis and Kanger Subtank aren't any good for it.

 

[Susan~S]

Hello and welcome to the forum jayswing. Glad to have you here!

SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT

With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil (or install a different ohm stock coil). With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape (i.e. the performance of your mod), with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.

A high vv/vw mod is a lot more versatile than a mechanical mod (not to mention safer, less upkeep, etc). The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. That increases vapor production.

With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.

Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...

==============

That said, since you are new to mech mods I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds (or your stock coil) , check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all fit together are listed below:


BATTERIES

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
* Battery Junction**

Note: **Ships to Canada

 

[GaG8tor]

Everything Susan~S just said.

 

[BigC52]

I'm a mechanical mod guy, but I won't discredit the merits of a vv/vw device, I have one and it's my all day vape when I'm at the house.
I can most certainly assure you those are fake vtc5's. Get yourself some Samsung 25r's from a reputable dealer, it took me forever to find a reputable source for authentic vtc5's, if you decide to go past the 20a barrier after you expand your knowledge base, use vtc4's. Much less apt to find a fake.
Never order off eBay. Period.

 

[jawswing]

From a little research I've done it looks like something like a Kepler 510 Finned Heat Sink Adapter on a SMPL mod, would allow me to use a Subtank/Atlantis? Could anyone confirm that.
Cheers for the help by the way guys, you seem to respond quickly on this forum, I like it.

 

[BigC52]

An adapter would surely work. Matter of fact that's pretty much how the Aeolus rda is that I'm running on my smpl.

 

[BigC52]

Make sure you put your atomizer on first, then load the battery btw.

 

[Madadoor]

The smpl is a fantastic mod that will work with anything 510 that has a protruding pin.

 

[JohnnyDill]

I had the SMPL / Subtank Mini short out the first time I tried it. -So I removed the Subtank positive pin {it pushes right out from the inside} and removed .020" of length from the negative threads. Put her back together and voila. No more shorts and it is now perfectly safe! The positive pin now protrudes more than enough!

I did this with a metal cutting lathe, but this could be done with many methods, right down to using a file or sandpaper.

-Hope this helps and vape on.

Note: I use Samsung 25R flat tops.

 

[suprtrkr]

I personally do not like the 510 threaded direct atty to battery connection the SMPL and similar mods feature. It's horrible easy to short the battery where the atomizer threads down on to it. Definitely get a tank with an adjustable center pin and adjust it out as far as you can.