SXK Billet box...

[FLICK]

Well,my gold 70 watt almost made it a month haha.It started auto firing yesterday,so i pulled it apart,and found 1 microscopic drop of juice inside where the board is,so wiped that out,put it back together and it worked fine the rest of the night.Came home from work today,picked it up and nothing.Took the battery out,put it back in,and instant auto fire.
I planned from the start to replace the board with a dna 60 at some point,but i really didn't think it would be less than a month after getting it.
On a brighter note though,my orange one with the dna 60 is ready to ship woohoo haha.

That sucks... It seems to be a fairly common issue with the SXK 70w because the board isn't lacquered and sealed, it only takes a tiny drop of liquid between component/chip legs or tracks on the board and they start playing up.. The DNA board seems to tolerate a bit of moisture much better due to being lacquered...

Sealing the positive pin to prevent condensation/liquid making it's way down there seems important also..

Now my 60 has had a good amount of use I might pull the cover and see if any moisture is getting into the board...

 

[proax9]

Then I went and got some screws from a local fastener supplier with a square head instead of those idiotic rounded ones they give you.

How do I go about determining the correct size / thread?

The notch looks like an option as well.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[gsmit1]

How do I go about determining the correct size / thread?

I took one of my spare into the place. I know the thread and length are good and I'm about 95% sure on the head size. I haven't actually tried them yet. I also got some tiny washers while I was there. I have an idea about those too. THIS is the place. It's walking distance from here. I can find out which ones I got if you want to order some.

The notch looks like an option as well.

I'm not sure what you mean.

Thanks for the suggestions.

You bet.

 

[FLICK]

How do I go about determining the correct size / thread?

If you have calipers or a micrometer you can measure the diameter of the thread and compare it to a metric thread size chart... The chances are they're M2, M2.5, or M3..
METRIC THREAD -- EXTENDED THREAD SIZE RANGE

I measured the BB cover screws the other day, they seem to be:
M2x0.4 x3mm long on the screen side x3
M2x0.4 x6mm long on the button side x4

 

[Pigs]

My SXK Haku Xeta clone arrived today
The journey so far : watched Todd's review again, tried a 3mm id fused Clapton (2.6 Ohms/foot) but it felt a little too tight. I wonder if this clone was based on the deck of the prototype which had less room?
Anyway I rolled a 2.5mm coil, took out all inserts wicked and boro'd and here are the photos. Haven't had my first vape yet...

 

[Fredman1]

I notice the inlet ports is rather high up. Can't help but wondering if that's going to be an issue for me.

 

[dwcraig1]

I notice the inlet ports is rather high up. Can't help but wondering if that's going to be an issue for me.

I have run mine down to the bottom without a problem. (Xeta, right?)

 

[Pigs]

I have run mine down to the bottom without a problem. (Xeta, right?)

Good to know. I been vaping mine for a couple hours now. Early days but it seems the most airflow/best DL vape from a BB rba yet for me. Loving it.

 

[lupinehorror]

Good to know. I been vaping mine for a couple hours now. Early days but it seems the most airflow/best DL vape from a BB rba yet for me. Loving it.

good to know. I'll remove the air flow restrictors too

 

[Fredman1]

I have run mine down to the bottom without a problem. (Xeta, right?)

Yep the Zeta. That's good to know. Thanks.

 

[FLICK]

Anyone have a similar issue...
I have 2 SXK Exocets. One I have had for a few months and installed a few coils with no issues. The other I just rec'd. Tried to install 2 different 26g kanthal coils, but the screw will not trap the wire: it just gets pushed out to the side, no matter how I try to keep it under the screws. I may have used 28g in the first coils that worked well. Both 26 and 28g coils are single wire coils.
Is there an issue with 26g on this deck, or maybe some issue with the screws/ deck on this Exocet?

This was posted on another forum yesterday: (POTV)
EXOCET CLONE PSA
I've always hated the screws that come with the clone, they don't trap thinner wires well without resorting to wrapping it around the screw, due to the head not being wide enough.

I've found a solution for me, decided to try my spare screws from the doggystyle rta as they look very similar to the genuine exocet screws, they actually fit perfectly and are the correct width on the head. No issues trapping wire now, looks like an authentic now too, not important to me but may be to some.

Just a handy bit of info for those who dislike these screws or need spares as the doggy spare parts are readily available, rather than buying a new exocet for only stripped screws.

Doggy screws on FT, I have no idea if they're the same as the person above has used:
$4.25 Replacement Center Screw for Doggy RTA Atomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[gsmit1]

This was posted on another forum yesterday: (POTV)
EXOCET CLONE PSA
I've always hated the screws that come with the clone, they don't trap thinner wires well without resorting to wrapping it around the screw, due to the head not being wide enough.

I've found a solution for me, decided to try my spare screws from the doggystyle rta as they look very similar to the genuine exocet screws, they actually fit perfectly and are the correct width on the head. No issues trapping wire now, looks like an authentic now too, not important to me but may be to some.

Just a handy bit of info for those who dislike these screws or need spares as the doggy spare parts are readily available, rather than buying a new exocet for only stripped screws.

Doggy screws on FT, I have no idea if they're the same as the person above has used:
$4.25 Replacement Center Screw for Doggy RTA Atomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Not to be argumentative, but having now looked at that link, those screws seem to suffer from the same issue as the SXK Exocet screws. They have that same rounded bottom mating surface as seen with my red line on the left. What we need is a squared off situation like the red line on the right.

 

[TrollDragon]

Not be argumentative, but having now looked at that link, those screws seem to suffer from the same issue as the SXK Exocet screws. They have that same rounded bottom mating surface as seen with my red line on the left. What we need is a squared off situation like the red line on the right.
View attachment 845513

You could always bring in some SS flat head screws, pick your size and length. The M2's have a 4mm wide head and the M2.5's have a 5mm wide head. If the head is too wide you can toss the screw into a hand drill and turn it down to fit with a file.

304 SS Big Thin Flat Cross Head screw M2 M2.5 M3 M4 Electronics Screw CM | eBay

 

[FLICK]

Not to be argumentative,

lol, it's all good, just passing on info on the off chance it's helpful... I suspected the FT doggy screws would be the same crappy quality...

 

[b.m.]

That sucks... It seems to be a fairly common issue with the SXK 70w because the board isn't lacquered and sealed, it only takes a tiny drop of liquid between component/chip legs or tracks on the board and they start playing up.. The DNA board seems to tolerate a bit of moisture much better due to being lacquered...

Sealing the positive pin to prevent condensation/liquid making it's way down there seems important also..

Now my 60 has had a good amount of use I might pull the cover and see if any moisture is getting into the board...

I pulled the back cover off again today,and wiped the board down with alcohol,and it seems to be working fine again now.I do need to pop that pin up and seal it though,i seen that mentioned on another forum a while back,but had forgotten about it,so that is definitely on the to do list,and it'll be a lot easier than swapping the board right now haha.
I've seen mention of sealing circuit boards with clear nail polish,and i thought of doing that on this one,but the board won't come out very far without pulling the screen loose in the front,and i figure i would probably break it trying to get it loose haha,so i'll be sealing that pin and hoping for the best.

 

[gsmit1]

I pulled the back cover off again today,and wiped the board down with alcohol,and it seems to be working fine again now.I do need to pop that pin up and seal it though,i seen that mentioned on another forum a while back,but had forgotten about it,so that is definitely on the to do list,and it'll be a lot easier than swapping the board right now haha.
I've seen mention of sealing circuit boards with clear nail polish,and i thought of doing that on this one,but the board won't come out very far without pulling the screen loose in the front,and i figure i would probably break it trying to get it loose haha,so i'll be sealing that pin and hoping for the best.

Try THIS

 

[Susaz]

I notice the inlet ports is rather high up. Can't help but wondering if that's going to be an issue for me.

Rotate the insert so that it faces the glass at an angle. You should be able to vape the whole tank.

 

[Susaz]

Odis is announcing the Boxxer V2

 

[Pigs]

Odis is announcing the Boxxer V2

Holy moly about time! So slow to release after the initial hype. Hope they get this one right but with the Xeta out there and powering for all styles of BB vaping I reckon Odis may have missed a trick here. Still - if it's good enough no doubt we'll all buy the clone

 

[Fredman1]

Rotate the insert so that it faces the glass at an angle. You should be able to vape the whole tank.

WoW...Its like you read my mind