Blunt end of a finishing nail works well for me, swap over to 16 penny for putting it back in the other side.
Soldering 510 Sealed Gold Connector
- Thread starter V-Dawg
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Blunt end of a finishing nail works well for me, swap over to 16 penny for putting it back in the other side.
No worries, buddy; if it still works, it ain't shorted!
Mine shorted out for a different reason. I always unscrew my atty from my 2AA box when I put it in my pocket @ my job, for fear of breaking it at the connection if I sit, squat, crouch or whatever (I'm a mechanic). Unbeknownst to me at the time, a tiny metal shaving had lodged itself inside the atty connector between the center post and threads. Next time I screwed the atty on and tried to vape, I got...
Nothing.
Dark LED. Didn't even get warm. Put in a freshly charged 14500. Still nothing.
Thought my atty had died, so I swapped it out.
You guessed it; nothing again.
Luckily I still carry my joye510 for such emergencies, LOL, but still; I was bummed about my now non-working box.
That's the beauty of using protected cells, right there. If I hadn't used protected cells, hopefully the current would have melted the built in master switch, which I think is the path of least resistance in my box.
I'm wondering if adding a micro fuse wouldn't be a good idea; surprised I haven't seen a mod with one yet.
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Just finished my MV box mod today, be careful when soldering the negative also, connector gets extremely hot and will start to melt box, this mod is awesome, puts my ego extended batt to shame, and it was thirty bucks cheaper.
If you screw an atomizer on the connector prior to soldering the negative wire, it will prevent overheating and melting of the plastic box. Some recommend using a dead atty, but I had none so I used a good atty with no negative results. Pre-tin your wire and clean the connector surface to be soldered with a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol to remove any traces of oil before soldering. It helps the solder flow easier, creating a better solder joint in less time.
use a multimeter set it to continuity. place leads on outside of connector and center post if it don't make a sound then you good. If it does then it has a short. I check mine every once in a while when my box starts acting up. All pv users should get a multimeter. That is a great tool to use to troubleshoot things.
i know this is old, but
i ALWAYS pop out the middle pin, AND insulator,
then i solder the +wire to the middle pin, inside the middle pin,
then i solder the -wire to the outside of the connector but inside the connector, lol inside of the outside,WITHOUT the
insulator in the middle,
then when everything is cooled down totally i assemble
put insulator in the middle and seat it correctly, then push the middle + post down in the hole/insulator,
it maybe a pain to get in, but ive found if you put the insultator on the +middle peice its almost impossible to get it seated correctly, so put the insulator in the hole first, it should fit like a glove,
if youse use these extra steps you can heat the part as much as you want, and not ruin the insulator (which is the only part that if you screw up and then you must use a new connector and starts over)
i ALWAYS pop out the middle pin, AND insulator,
then i solder the +wire to the middle pin, inside the middle pin,
then i solder the -wire to the outside of the connector but inside the connector, lol inside of the outside,WITHOUT the
insulator in the middle,
then when everything is cooled down totally i assemble
put insulator in the middle and seat it correctly, then push the middle + post down in the hole/insulator,
it maybe a pain to get in, but ive found if you put the insultator on the +middle peice its almost impossible to get it seated correctly, so put the insulator in the hole first, it should fit like a glove,
if youse use these extra steps you can heat the part as much as you want, and not ruin the insulator (which is the only part that if you screw up and then you must use a new connector and starts over)
I agree on popping the insulator out.
You can even solder an eGo connector into a copper pipe cap on an electric range.
TRY THAT WITH THE INSULATOR IN PLACE
You can even solder an eGo connector into a copper pipe cap on an electric range.
TRY THAT WITH THE INSULATOR IN PLACE
I agree on popping the insulator out.
You can even solder an eGo connector into a copper pipe cap on an electric range.
TRY THAT WITH THE INSULATOR IN PLACE
OOOOO! Electric range! I had not thought of that.
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