Hi guys I just got a SmPL mod in the mail (its a clone btw) and it is my first mech ive owned. Im not new to vaping and i have had multiple rdas and box mods. My current setup is a jellyfish with a royal hunter and i run it at about .4ohms. So i dont need info on using the mod but i have read countless things about the mod blowing up and various safety problems like shorts and battery arcing etc.... So if someone could just explain the various safety precautions that would be great.
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It's a faux-hybrid device, meaning your atomizer will be making direct contact with the battery. If the 510 connection doesn't have enough clearance, it will make contact with both the battery and the outer casing of the mod. This is a dead short. 0 resistance, max voltage, battery discharges/thermal runaway. Bad news.
Don't use the SMPL with any carto tanks. This means no Subtank, no Atlantis, no Nautilus, etc.. Make sure the 510 pin of whatever atomizer you attach has a solid amount of clearance -- the 510 pin must be "protruding".
Additionally, if your battery shows any sign of indentation at the top contact (which will happen over time in certain devices which hold the battery tighter than most) do not use it in the SMPL, as that small indentation will minimize the clearance the 510 connection has.
The most important part is not dead-shorting any atties through the 510 connection. I haven't really heard of any RDA's that don't have enough clearance although some do come to mind, like Igo-L's, which have a relatively flat 510 pin. You should be good with your Royal Hunter.
Don't use the SMPL with any carto tanks. This means no Subtank, no Atlantis, no Nautilus, etc.. Make sure the 510 pin of whatever atomizer you attach has a solid amount of clearance -- the 510 pin must be "protruding".
Additionally, if your battery shows any sign of indentation at the top contact (which will happen over time in certain devices which hold the battery tighter than most) do not use it in the SMPL, as that small indentation will minimize the clearance the 510 connection has.
The most important part is not dead-shorting any atties through the 510 connection. I haven't really heard of any RDA's that don't have enough clearance although some do come to mind, like Igo-L's, which have a relatively flat 510 pin. You should be good with your Royal Hunter.
If the battery casing is torn either re-wrap the battery or junk it entirely. This poses many safety risks, not just for a device like the SMPL. The entire battery is a terminal, essentially, and the wrapping is the only thing preventing the side of the battery from being a giant positive post.
You will know if a short occurs if the device doesn't fire, gets rapidly hot (your battery should never get hot) or (worst case scenario) blows up in your hand. An 18650 battery can dump the entirety of its load in under a second or two, in a dead short. In most cases this would be far too little time for you to do much more than drop the mod on the ground.
I heard of someone shorting their SMPL and throwing it out the window where it landed in several feet of snow and promptly melted the snow all the way down to the grass.
if the wrap is torn it doesn't mean a short, but it will complete the circuit and auto fire
Also if the mod shorts is the whole thing trash now or only the battery. Lastly what if one of my coils is accidently touching one of the posts ot the outside of the rda. I know this will cause a short but will the battery be destroyed from that too?
Okay this worries me. You should be checking your coils resistance with an ohm reader before attaching them to your device. This, ideally, should give you evidence as to whether or not you've created a short/whether the resistance is too low.
If you short an 18650 battery, yes, it is destroyed.
There's a risk of a short with any mech mod. Ones that have firing pins (ie: not faux-hybrids) are inherently safer because there is little/no potential risk of dead-shorting the atty and battery through the outer casing of the mod.
Batteries with damaged wrapping shouldn't be used in anything until they're re wrapped.
IMO, Pseudo hybrid top caps are a dangerous design, in the hands of the inexperienced even more so.
There is a lot more at stake than just ruining a battery.
IMO, Pseudo hybrid top caps are a dangerous design, in the hands of the inexperienced even more so.
There is a lot more at stake than just ruining a battery.
I won't say the faux-hybrid type can't be used safely. I will say I won't have one. And that it would not have been on top of my list for a "first mech."
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Do not use it. They are dangerous unless you are experienced. Get a mod with a 510 pin connection
Of course I would check the resistance I currently own a jellyfish so i could easily do that. Im just not accustomed to this whole "short" thing because I've never had to worry about it before. But from what I've read it seems to be the most dangerous aspect of a mech mod so I want to be completely informed about the topic. I do appreciate the concern the most info I can get is awesome so thank you for the replies.
Hybrid top caps have been addressed by others but here's a video for you: Hybrid Top Caps & Battery Failure
Regarding battery safety & mech mods, everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are. I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A battery, that would be 10A. This Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a .4 ohm build is as low as I would want to use.
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, a 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.
More on Batteries
I highly recommend you spend some time with @Baditude (one of our resident battery/safety experts) and visit his blogs.
* Baditude's Blog - Table of Contents
Also visit @Mooch (another battery/safety expert) who has been bench testing batteries lately.
* 18650 Safety Grades -- Picking a Safe Battery to Vape With
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this is what you need to keep an eye out for on the smpl
your pos pin needs to protrude a bit
There are a few images like this, they make a great guide for what's cool/what's not with the SMPL. Thanks for posting it, I couldn't find it.
Most info has been covered.
I used a smpl mod for a while.
Used samsung 25R batteries. Atomisers that had a protruding or adjustable 510 pin that didn't push back in.
Tried to go no lower than 0.4Ω on that mod , maybe couple times at 0.35Ω.
Get familiar with ohms law and the amp discharge rating of the batteries your using.
I used a smpl mod for a while.
Used samsung 25R batteries. Atomisers that had a protruding or adjustable 510 pin that didn't push back in.
Tried to go no lower than 0.4Ω on that mod , maybe couple times at 0.35Ω.
Get familiar with ohms law and the amp discharge rating of the batteries your using.
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