Nope the other way start by seating the coils vertically. Each leg in opposite post holes so leg on left side goes on top left hole, leg on right goes on bottom right. Than do same for other side when you turn coils to face horizontally it wil take up extra slack. If ya need pics let me know its np.
Smok TFV4 Competitor - IJOY Reaper Plus Tank
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Great building tip!
I had a fair amount of slack to work out myself. I ended up pushing the coils closer in. This will save a good bit of time!.
Hey,OK guys, I'm not trying to rain on your Reaper Plus parade. I'm just showing you what I had discovered in mine.
I took care of the spinning positive post by drilling, threading and installing M1.6 screw. But I noticed, that the post, the pin and, possible the entire base are made out of Chromed Brass.
Also, an O-Ring on the removable base, is above the bottom of the juice channels. It is going to leak.
If you don't mind my being inquisitive, I'm very curious to know that you had to do to get that M1.6 screw in there. I know you had to tap it, but how?
Was that pin installed tight enough to drill it and tap it, or did you have to disassemble the whole thing to get that pin out for that? If you had to disassemble it, how hard was that, and what was it like getting it back together and getting that M1.6 screw tight enough to keep the plus post from moving?
Edit to add:
I see now that the screw hole is centered in the pin. I guess that made it a lot easier.
I've never tapped for M1.6. Other than getting an M1.6 tap, do you know what tap to get by thread size and spacing? Something like 4x40, or just look for an M1.6 tap?
While you had it apart, could you tell if the insulator is PEEK, or what would you say it is made of?
Oh, and the clarity of your pictures is amazing!
And what is your take on that 26g NiFe48? I've seen it available, but haven't tried it yet.
Sorry for so many questions.
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No trouble at all. It's pretty simple, really. I chucked it in my mill vise on top of two parallels and shaved the pin flush with the surface of the positive post. Then I took very light cuts from the side of the pin and the side of the post, using Ø1.2mm end mill (more like a dental work). When I placed the post back on the pin, my cuts made an imperfect hole that would guide my drill bit. Both the pin and the post are made out of same material (brass unfortunately) and no need to worry about drill bit cutting more from one then the other. To choose a drill bit for metric tap is easy: Tap diameter minus pitch of the thread. M1.6 - 0.35 = Ø1.25 mm. Then I put two other parallels on top horizontally, so when I close my vise, those parallels would squeeze both posts and keep them from moving while drilling. I will take a picture tomorrow in the day light and add it to this post. Then I tapped with tap #1 and #2 bottoming tap. Always use lube, when tapping and remove chips from dead end threaded hole frequently. I use Brake Cleaner to blast those pesky chips.
As far as I could tell, the insulator is made neither from PEEK, nor from Delrin. Seems like it is made of cheap black plastic, but it is pretty thick. I make Delrin and PEEK insulators and I know one when I see one. (pictures below under spoiler, you've got to click on it to see). My pictures are made using very sophisticated device, called Samsung Galaxy S6 and my desk lamp. NiFe30 is designed to replace nickel and NiFe48 to replace titanium. And, for me, they are doing an excellent job. I know of two places to get them:
1. United Kindom: stealthvape.co.uk
2. Germany: zivipf.de
I happened to use the one from Deutschland. I drive their car and shoot their guns, so might as well use their wire. Which I really shouldn't, because I'm Ukrainian Jew and most of my ancestors were killed by Nazis.
Drilling
Last edited:
No trouble at all. It's pretty simple, really. I chucked it in my mill vise on top of two parallels and shaved the pin flush with the surface of the positive post. Then I took very light cuts from the side of the pin and the side of the post, using Ø1.2mm end mill (more like a dental work). When I placed the post back on the pin, my cuts made an imperfect hole that would guide my drill bit. Both the pin and the post are made out of same material (brass unfortunately) and no need to worry about drill bit cutting more from one then the other. To choose a drill bit for metric tap is easy: Tap diameter minus pitch of the thread. M1.6 - 0.35 = Ø1.25 mm. Then I put two other parallels on top horizontally, so when I close my vise, those parallels would squeeze both posts and keep them from moving while drilling. I will take a picture tomorrow in the day light and add it to this post. Then I tapped with tap #1 and #2 bottoming tap. Always use lube, when tapping and remove chips from dead end threaded hole frequently. I use Brake Cleaner to blast those pesky chips.
As far as I could tell, the insulator is made neither from PEEK, nor from Delrin. Seems like it is made of cheap black plastic, but it is pretty thick. I make Delrin and PEEK insulators and I know one when I see one. (pictures below under spoiler, you've got to click on it to see). My pictures are made using very sophisticated device, called Samsung Galaxy S6 and my desk lamp. NiFe30 is designed to replace nickel and NiFe48 to replace titanium. And, for me, they are doing an excellent job. I know of two places to get them:
1. United Kindom: stealthvape.co.uk
2. Germany: zivipf.de
I happened to use the one from Deutschland. I drive their car and shoot their guns, so might as well use their wire. Which I really shouldn't, because I'm Ukrainian Jew and most of my ancestors were killed by Nazis.
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Is it just me or does it seem like you guys have to really tinker with these tanks to get them to work?
Tapayappin
Tapayappin
The only tinkering I had to do was in getting used to fitting the coils inside the cover and wicking it properly. After getting it right the first time, it would be much easier the next time. And @skiball made some very helpful posts on Clapton coil builds.
A tip when you seat the coils. Use the opposite post holes. Also, when you seat them, have the coils vertical and tighten the post screws, so that when you straighten out the coils, it takes up any extra slack.
Each leg goes in opposite post holes. So leg on left side goes on top left hole, leg on right goes on bottom right. Then do the same for the other side. When you turn coils to face horizontally, it will take up extra slack. If ya need pics, let me know. It's np.
.Each leg goes in opposite post holes. So leg on left side goes on top left hole, leg on right goes on bottom right. Then do the same for the other side. When you turn coils to face horizontally, it will take up extra slack. If ya need pics, let me know. It's np.
Im a noooob so i had to ask. Im really worried about wicking. It seems like it's not a science but rather instinct. Reading here im thinking i dont have it lol. I am waiting on a bellus which will be my first rta but im looking for an rta that i can learn to rebuild on while using pre made until i get it right.
Tapayappin
While you have several choices for a wick material, many if not most are using Japanese Organic Cotton Pads. There are several brands to chose from. The main caution to them is that they are made with a grain to them. They will rip apart easily if pulled by the shorter sides, but they are quite strong if cut lengthwise with the grain. If they happen to be square, you should be able to see which way the grain is, or pull gently to see which way is stronger. Generally, a snug fit in the coil is best. Too much will choke the juice flow, and too little can cause hotspots and flooding.
There are many building video tutorials on YouTube. You can find them fairly easily in a search for wicking with japanese organic cotton pads. You don't have to follow any one of them to the letter, but just use them as a guide.
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Thanks, Skiball! I can do 70/30.
I haven't had a chance to do that build yet but I will try the 2.4.
It did work, though! The draw was tight but I never got a dry hit off of it. I got some excellent advice so my next build won't be so dubious.
The Clapton is much, much better than the triple parallel SS. I have had zero problems with it and I have run probably 10 tanks through it so far. I have it on my X-Cube II at 33 watts and flavor and vapor are still outstanding, so for me this coil is a win!I must say that you've done some amazing work in your repair job!!!
The only Head I used in it was the Triple Parallel SS316L. I wouldn't call it "leaking", but I wasn't happy with it, either. The tank was not wet, but it seemed to frequently feel slippery with juice. I have not experienced that with the RBA2 and my build in it.
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Hey @AMDTrucking- iJoy is listening! They said there is, indeed, a plan to upgrade the RBA going forward. I don't have any information on what exactly they are planning, but they know that the brass components are not going over well and that the positive post needs to be secured more....securely? You know what I mean.No trouble at all. It's pretty simple, really. I chucked it in my mill vise on top of two parallels and shaved the pin flush with the surface of the positive post. Then I took very light cuts from the side of the pin and the side of the post, using Ø1.2mm end mill (more like a dental work). When I placed the post back on the pin, my cuts made an imperfect hole that would guide my drill bit. Both the pin and the post are made out of same material (brass unfortunately) and no need to worry about drill bit cutting more from one then the other. To choose a drill bit for metric tap is easy: Tap diameter minus pitch of the thread. M1.6 - 0.35 = Ø1.25 mm. Then I put two other parallels on top horizontally, so when I close my vise, those parallels would squeeze both posts and keep them from moving while drilling. I will take a picture tomorrow in the day light and add it to this post. Then I tapped with tap #1 and #2 bottoming tap. Always use lube, when tapping and remove chips from dead end threaded hole frequently. I use Brake Cleaner to blast those pesky chips.
As far as I could tell, the insulator is made neither from PEEK, nor from Delrin. Seems like it is made of cheap black plastic, but it is pretty thick. I make Delrin and PEEK insulators and I know one when I see one. (pictures below under spoiler, you've got to click on it to see). My pictures are made using very sophisticated device, called Samsung Galaxy S6 and my desk lamp. NiFe30 is designed to replace nickel and NiFe48 to replace titanium. And, for me, they are doing an excellent job. I know of two places to get them:
1. United Kindom: stealthvape.co.uk
2. Germany: zivipf.de
I happened to use the one from Deutschland. I drive their car and shoot their guns, so might as well use their wire. Which I really shouldn't, because I'm Ukrainian Jew and most of my ancestors were killed by Nazis.
Drilling
Anyway, just wanted you to know!
A... the .4 coil is nichrome. B.. there are 2 rba bases, one with wider holes for "clapton like builds". C...this tank is great for all styled of vaping. love it. have yet to try the occ coil heads, the ceramic ones, due to pre order everywhere. geek reaper is a limited run, available as far as i kmow, and what I joy says, is @myfreedomsmokes.com, for 40$ .can use 1, 2 or 3 coils, amd any in the reaper plus line up, including 1 to 3 rba bases. use code vaporjoe13 for 13% off entire MFS site. just trying to help! probably too late, not scrolling through the next 10 pagesSo far, I like the Reaper Plus a lot. I find it very easy to fill with a glass eyedropper. There is a chamber around the Coil Head with 4 juice holes in it, which is Closed to Fill and Open to Vape. It can also be used as a Juice Flow Controller. It is easy to spin and operate for Filling or Juice Flow Control. It's a very cool design. The Fill Port cover ring on top opens and closes easily for Filling. The Fill Port is wide enough that I had no issues using an eyedropper.
The juice I'm using in it is a DIY that was a gift. It is all VG except for about 7% flavoring that is PG-based, and thinned with Distilled Water. This was my first time trying it, so the Flavor ability of the Tank is hard to judge. I was given a duplicate that was thinned with 8% Everclear Pure Grain Alcohol, so I'll try it next. I've been vaping that in a Kayfun, so it will make a good comparison for Flavor.
The Air Flow from the bottom Airflow Ring is great, and it also has adjustable air on top by the Drip Tip. I haven't needed that as yet. I've been using it with the Airflow Ring all the way open. The only thing I haven't done yet is figure out how to fully disassemble the Tank for Cleaning.
I forgot to talk about the Drip Tip. The hole through it is 6mm, and the bore opens up to 8mm. Personally, I'd like to see this Stainless Tank with Clear O-Rings and a Clear Fill Port ring, but that's me. All in all, it's a great Cloud tank. I really wish a Ceramic ICC Coil Head was in the kit, though. Mine came with a Triple Parallel Coil 0.3Ω SS 316L OCC Head, and a Dual Parallel Coil 0.4Ω Kanthal OCC Head. The 0.3Ω SS 316L Head works great in TC Mode on a Mod that can handle it, too.If you don't have one, you can vape it in VW Mode.
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the .4 ohm coils are NICHROME, NOT KANTHAL. geek available on MFS's site. 40$, vaporjoe13, 13% off. have yet to try occ coil due to pre orders. 2 rba bases, v2 has much wider post holes for."clapton wire builds" as stated by ijoy. both readily available. geek is limited run. grab one while you can before they are gone!
Sorry for a dumb question, but how can I disassemble this reaper plus tank? I just realized that after I need to change flavor. Very stupid huh,but I can't find a video about that.
It's not a dumb question! I have never completely disassembled mine but I found this graphic for you. Now I think I should take mine completely apart and clean it, too!
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