Many have reported mixed results with the Kanger (and aftermarket) premade NI coils. While I found that I can get better vapor production with my own coils with the RBA, I've did not had an issue with the store bought NI coils. (YMMV)
I've been using everything from 28AWG to 32AWG in the Limo2 for TC mode. Ni200 is naturally 'springy' so when letting go after making a tight wrap they will naturally spread out. I've also tried everything from 5-10 wraps and 2.5-3.5mm ID. Just make sure that the wick extends down to the bottom of the 'deck' to avoid leaking.
The Lemo2 has become my 'daily tank' as the top fill feature makes it easy to refill without getting juice on the outside of the tank and on my fingers and mod.
I have found the Kanger ni200 OCC's to be very inconsistent. So much so that I've given up on using them on my Subtanks. On most occasions, what would happen is that the coil would register as 0.15 ohms when you first start using it and it works great. Then a half hour or an hour passes and the resistance drops to 0.12. Then the vapor production drops off like crazy and the only way you can get any vapor out of the coil is to crank up the temp all the way up to above 550 degrees or even higher. And once this happens, removing the atty to try to reset the coil doesn't help.
I pretty much use only Aspire tanks for TC now. The Vaporshark ni200 coils for the Atlantis are awesome. They're rock solid and the resistance never wanders like the Kanger OCC's. I have one in an Atlantis 2 and have been using it for over 4 weeks now (and have gone through over 60 mls of juice on that coil) and it still works great and still registers at 0.15 ohms. The only downside is price. These coils come out to be over $4 a piece.
I have also tried the vAir-T 0.25 ohm nickel coils and they're ok, not great. The build quality is inconsistent. The center pins are in there pretty loose (one even fell out on me when I was handling the coil). The coil has an adjustable juice flow control, but I think the juice still seeps in around the control ring. I used one fully open in a Triton and it leaked juice through the coil and down into the air flow base. I now use these coils in Atlantis 2's and they work fine so long as I have the juice flow turned down quite a bit. Also, once you have been using the coil for a while, the organic cotton starts to shred around the center of the coil. After using the coil for about a week, I can look down the center of the coil and see some loose cotton poking out of the coil, which I then clean out using tweezers. The price is good though, being just under $10 for a 5-pack.
I've heard that the eLeaf nickel coils made for the Melo and iJust2 will fit the Atlantis, so I've ordered some and will try it. The wick holes looks to be about the same size as the Vaporshark coils. Price is about $1-2 more than the vAir-T's for a 5 pack. I've also heard that the Smok Subverter nickel coils will fit the Atlantis, so I've ordered some as well. I do like the larger wick holes (comparable in size to the newer low-ohm Atlantis coils). That should help if you're using high VG juices, although I have used Max VG juices with the Vaporshark nickel coils without any issues. They're priced about the same as the eLeaf coils.
I also got a Freemax Starre Pro and so far have just used their stock 0.25 ohm nickel coil. Works great although I do seem to detect a slight metallic aftertaste.
