sorry i meant what does the ohm rating represent in terms of vaping, how does it affect the vape etc..
I am too used to direct to lung when it comes to vaping..it's kinda odd to do mouth to lung for me..it's weird..
Sub-ohm provides much better nicotine delivery, so compared to the old style, you need half the nicotine levels that you'd need with the old non-sub-ohm type tanks. Most people end up going down to 3mg easily, some even quit nicotine altogether in time.
Ohm is an electrical measurements of resistance, in very simple layman's terms, the lower it is, the faster the electricity flows through it, the coil heats up faster and the hotter it is. This means more vapor is produced, it also means that this vapor will be warmer when you take it in.
That said, you might not find much difference between coils, I build coils that go from 0.2 to over 1ohm, and overall, don't find the difference to be that noticeable as I adjust my settings to provide a similar experience.
Ohms are very important if you use a mechanical mod (basically a battery and a button, absolutely no safeguard) as you have to build a coil with a level of resistance that the battery you use can handle. Most of the time that you hear about a e-cigarette exploding will be with a mech mod, where this person had a short or did a coil that pulled too much amperage from the battery and the battery overloaded and exploded (run-away reaction). (the other times is usually just a battery throw in a pocket or purse that has a metal thing (coin or other)that shorted the battery, or it's when someone left their device in a car or in the sun, etc. where it simply got so hot that the battery simply overloaded.)
But using a regulated mod, it has computer chips that control the power, wattage, etc. so even if you have a defective coil, the mod with show you a "short" message and will not fire. Using a regulated mod, it reads the ohm of the coil that you put in, and adjusts the power flow, so you can't really do damage to the battery as the moment it detects something's off, if shuts the power output instantly. In other words, the ohms aren't something to worry about with a regulated mod, it's more about that you might find a slight difference between them if you try the various coils that fits that tank.
BTW, side note, the Melo 3 tank that you have, you can use about 20+ types of coils from various brands as the design is a very popular and proven one... and not only that, but they are very easy to rebuild.
Vaperrasso cCell rebuilding
Vaping is like a balancing act, between the type of metal for the coil used, the wattage used, you have to sort this balance out for yourself. Sub-ohm vaping provides the ability to fine tune the vape to the person's preference.
As you are very new to this, I'll also state some info about the batteries.
First:
- these are lithium batteries, so they are very powerful and you have to treat them with a lot of respect.
- While as long as you have a good battery, they are very safe, BUT IF you see ANY damage to the wrap (plastic that covers it), stop using it and get it re-wrapped, most good stores will help you with that or check for videos online about re-wrapping 18650 batteries. The distance between the positive and negative connection is extremely small and if compromised, could be very easily shorted, and the battery WILL either vent (hot gases and liquid shot out) or have a runaway overload (boom). If ever such a battery starts feeling extremely/dangerously hot in your hand, (this applies to any lithium battery or devices that uses them), don't take chances, put them down in a safe area and take some distance and see if it will cool down and be safe.
Second:
- only buy good brands, so LG, Sony, Samsung.(beware of fakes)
- Anything that says "fire" in the name, or isn't an official brand, these batteries are re-wraps from the "rejected piles/second tiers that didn't pass all the quality tests" from the real manufaturers. So when you buy one of these, an Aspire one for example, you could actually have a LG, Sony, Samsung battery under the wrapping, but it's not going to work as "perfectly" as the "real" ones... Before I learned all this stuff, a store convinced me to get some Aspire ones, From one to the other, the performance was extremely different with half being crappy, the other just decent, but at this point, all these batteries are almost all dead, while the brand names ones I started getting right after, are still going strong.
- For vaping, you have to use high drain capable batteries, usually 20A to 30A is the standard. Note that there are a LOT of 18650 that are low drain, which are meant for devices like flashlights and similar, don't mistake between them. And note that some of the "fire" brands, will put 30A-40A and even higher numbers (for mAh also) on their batteries. That is a LIE as no 18650 at this time have the magical capacity that these are claiming to be.There are very few batteries out there that are over 30A and over 3000mAh
- the differences between the A and the mAh are (simply said):
1) A is the maximum power that the battery can output as a given time
2) mAh is the amount of power that it can provide over time, so the higher, the longer the battery should last according to how much power you pull from it.
Hope this helps.
