Russian 91% v2 irratic resistance readings

[MikeE3]

Sorry, I guess I'm not explaining my problem clear enough. When I unscrew the small center screw out, let's say 1/32 inch as an example and then screw the 91 into the 510, I get no power to the 91. When I unscrew the 91, the small center screw has screwed back flush with the larger screw so am not making contact. This happens with every device. Somehow that little screw is moving and turning with the 91 when I'm attaching to the device. Is that a little clearer?

I haven't had this issue w/ 'real' R91 2 screw posts but I did have this issue w/ the Fat Daddy 2 piece replacement screws. The threads on the little screw were too narrow or the threads in the main post were to wide. It seemed like the little screw was 'screwing' in but not really. The fit was so sloppy that a little finger pressure on the little screw pushed it all the way in.

With you little screw 'screwed out' can you apply finger pressure and push it in? Just wondering if you are having a similar problem that I had w/ the FDV replacement kit.

 

[VAscooter]

I haven't had this issue w/ 'real' R91 2 screw posts but I did have this issue w/ the Fat Daddy 2 piece replacement screws. The threads on the little screw were too narrow or the threads in the main post were to wide. It seemed like the little screw was 'screwing' in but not really. The fit was so sloppy that a little finger pressure on the little screw pushed it all the way in.

With you little screw 'screwed out' can you apply finger pressure and push it in? Just wondering if you are having a similar problem that I had w/ the FDV replacement kit.

Sounds similar to me. Look for it tomorrow in the classifieds if I get tired of fooling with it tonight .

 

[MikeE3]

FYi - Dennis at FDV just sent me some of his new R91 pins to try out. I haven't seen them for sale yet on his website. They are a bit different than an original R91 V1 pin but I tried one in an R91 and it worked OK.

The heads of both screws are a bit thinner. The shank of the long post screw is a tad longer. It protruded through the block a a bit more and I had to raise my coil a little. The short adjusting screw's threaded portion is a little shorter than the original but I had enough length to adjust it for my PV - no problem. The picture doesn't show a small o-ring but I think he is waiting on them to arrive so I'm assuming when they go up for sale it will include a small o-ring.

left: new FDV pin, right: original V1 pin.
(he told me he made the hole o-long to make the post stronger and eliminate some of the whistle/air noise some folks talk about.)



picture tries to show the different length of the shanks

 

[LargeD]

I don't know if I'm allowed to put a link on here, but FDV seems to have the new center pins that you mentioned on their ebay store with the o-rings. If you look at the second picture in the listing, there is clearly an oval air hole.

 

[BobC]

Picked it up, I'll let you know how it works

 

[duroSIG556R]

Here's hoping the center pin from fat daddy solves my leaking from around the 510 issue. I've got 4 Russians and two of them consistently leak from around the 510. It has annoyed me to no end. This will be my final attempt to fix it.

I can say one thing; no matter what else KEBO puts out, I won't buy it.

 

[BobC]

Here's hoping the center pin from fat daddy solves my leaking from around the 510 issue. I've got 4 Russians and two of them consistently leak from around the 510. It has annoyed me to no end. This will be my final attempt to fix it.

I can say one thing; no matter what else KEBO puts out, I won't buy it.

Leaking from the 510 is not an RBA problem, it's a build problem sorry to say, post a pic of your build so we may be able to help you out

 

[duroSIG556R]

Leaking from the 510 is not an RBA problem, it's a build problem sorry to say, post a pic of your build so we may be able to help you out

It's not a build problem. A simple micro coil with cotton. Trust me. I've tried all different sized micro's, different amounts of wick, coil height, etc...I'm sorry to say that it's not a build related problem. It's a tolerance problem. Again, I've got two russians that work just fine, and two that completely suck.

 

[MikeE3]

Leaking from the 510 is not an RBA problem, it's a build problem sorry to say, post a pic of your build so we may be able to help you out

hmmm - interesting .... I've got 1 of 3 that seeps juices down the 510 pin. They're all built pretty much the same. Why do you say it's a "build problem"? Always willing to listen and learn - thanks.

 

[BobC]

First a couple of non pin related givens:
The R91 is producing an air tight vacuum that pulls liquid to the channels as:
- The base cover tightens securely and reaches the top cap O-Ring
- The top cap O-Ring is snug around the base cover neck

If the above is correct, the only place liquid can enter the 510, is through the positive connection pin hole.

Unless the pin doesn't secure the Positive block, which would be a problem by itself, and the base is not cracked, what else would cause juice to flow through the base besides too much juice entering the base and flowing through the pin hole to the 510?

 

[carrielsal]

Interesting. I have 5 R91's and have never had an issue with leaking around the 510.

 

[MikeE3]

First a couple of non pin related givens:
The R91 is producing an air tight vacuum that pulls liquid to the channels as:
- The base cover tightens securely and reaches the top cap O-Ring
- The top cap O-Ring is snug around the base cover neck

If the above is correct, the only place liquid can enter the 510, is through the positive connection pin hole.

Unless the pin doesn't secure the Positive block, which would be a problem by itself, and the base is not cracked, what else would cause juice to flow through the base besides too much juice entering the base and flowing through the pin hole to the 510?

Hmm - so overwicking is the likely cause of juice seeping down the the center pin's air hole/passage. Thanks

 

[sedge]

Hmm - so overwicking is the likely cause of juice seeping down the the center pin's air hole/passage. Thanks

Or having the coil too close to the deck. Should be raised 1.5 mm to 2.0 mm

 

[BobC]

K, got the new FatDaddy replacement pin for the V2, you must use the white V2 pin washer (small end up) and it works great!
If you don't use the washer, the base threading rides too high above the positive block

 

[duroSIG556R]

Hmm - so overwicking is the likely cause of juice seeping down the the center pin's air hole/passage. Thanks

Tried various amount of wick, still leaks.

 

[MikeE3]

K, got the new FatDaddy replacement pin for the V2, you must use the white V2 pin washer (small end up) and it works great!
If you don't use the washer, the base threading rides too high above the positive block

Are to talking 'bout the post insulator from the V2 spring loaded pin or something else?

 

[BobC]

Yes, the white insulator from the V2 pin

 

[BobC]

Tried various amount of wick, still leaks.

If you tighten the airflow screw, are you able to draw on it or is it sealed? And, you do have an o-ring on the cap, right?

 

[carrielsal]

Tried various amount of wick, still leaks.

Post pics.

 

[duroSIG556R]

Post pics.

Next break down, I'll post pics. Absolutely nothing helps *sigh*