Painting a tumbled reo tip thread

[Gregjl]

I bought a tumbled reo with the intention of painting it and I don't want to overlook the obvious things like leaving the spring screw in for continuity, leaving the top screw in so the threads don't get clogged, masking the 510, are there any other tips? Should the pos. Pin come out or just mask it.

Thanks

 

[Vapefiend]

I’d take everything out and just tape the 510 if I were doing it.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

I'm thinking it would depend on how the paint treatment is to be applied and where you intend to paint (eg interior yes/no?). Also, which model REO.

I'll assume spray application including interior on a Grand. With that in mind...

* remove the spring
* remove the bottle and tubing
* mask 510
* mask the delrin insert with tape (leaving it in gives you two flat surfaces for easier masking plus it will allow the pos contact to be covering inside the insert)
* rubber cement on the exposed metal feeder tube
* rubber cement on the magnets (both on the mod and any doors you want to paint)
* mask the exposed firing button (remove any button covers)

 

[Gregjl]

I'm thinking it would depend on how the paint treatment is to be applied and where you intend to paint (eg interior yes/no?). Also, which model REO.

I'll assume spray application including interior on a Grand. With that in mind...

* remove the spring
* remove the bottle and tubing
* mask 510
* mask the delrin insert with tape (leaving it in gives you two flat surfaces for easier masking plus it will allow the pos contact to be covering inside the insert)
* rubber cement on the exposed metal feeder tube
* rubber cement on the magnets (both on the mod and any doors you want to paint)
* mask the exposed firing button (remove any button covers)

I'm thinking it would depend on how the paint treatment is to be applied and where you intend to paint (eg interior yes/no?). Also, which model REO.

I'll assume spray application including interior on a Grand. With that in mind...

* remove the spring
* remove the bottle and tubing
* mask 510
* mask the delrin insert with tape (leaving it in gives you two flat surfaces for easier masking plus it will allow the pos contact to be covering inside the insert)
* rubber cement on the exposed metal feeder tube
* rubber cement on the magnets (both on the mod and any doors you want to paint)
* mask the exposed firing button (remove any button covers)

I was going to take out the delrin and everything but the positive looks like it's pressed on and may not go back on as tight. Your way sounds better and easier but I would like to keep that negative screw in. ( with the spring out of course )

 

[SteamStack]

Yeah tape over the screw. You need the screw hole clean for the ground connection. If you do take the screw out and cover the area with paint you'll need to sand away the area under the screw head to make that contact connection.

 

[Vapefiend]

When I clear coated my supervein grand and p67 I took all parts out except the 510 and nipple.

 

[SteamStack]

When I clear coated my supervein grand and p67 I took all parts out except the 510 and nipple.

So you didnt sand the area under the spring screw head for better strong screw to body ground contact?

 

[Vapefiend]

So you didnt sand the area under the spring screw head for better strong screw to body ground contact?

It was already sanded before. I left the door on and taped the back of the squonk hole to keep the inside clean.

When it dried I just gently sliced the door track top to bottom with an xacto knife and it came right off.

 

[Vapefiend]

I take that back. That was for the p67. On my sl I sanded the spring area after clear coating as I hadn’t done it yet.