NextGen Atomizer

[BeerGolfClouds]

BGC, have you checked the small O-ring inside the top cap? I'd wait to fix the air leak before drilling the juice holes, w/o a vacuum you can't really tell what it's going to wick like.

Yes, it looked fine...I haven't had time to put it through a proper vacuum test yet, hopefully later tonight I'll get the chance. Drilling out the juice holes would be a last resort, but I definitely need to sort out that air leak first. It still vapes great, but the occasional dry hit is just bugging me. Perfectionist and all that lol.

 

[ccwaters]

So after waiting for the Ultra slow shipping from Gearbest, a bit over a month, and I paid $5.00 extra for the so-called express, USPS took 3 days rest of the time was GB Express shipping. The SXK which was FALSELY advertised as a Yeahsmo Nextgen arrived today. To add insult to injury it arrived as shown below

As far as I know they still have the Nextgen advertised falsely as a Yeahsmo when it is indeed the SXK. So just be aware, you won't be getting what you paid for from these Crooks.

 

[TrollDragon]

Wow that really sucks, Fasttech has replacement glass if GB won't send you one.

If your going to file a false advertising claim with GB let me know and I'll send one in to.

 

[ccwaters]

Thanks, I ordered a 5 pack of glass when they listed them, also got the first SXK from them.

I had another order placed beginning of last month from GearBest, after it failed to ship on the promised date I opened another ticket, they gave the same old spew, and promised it would ship on the 20th. I finally cancelled that order today. And will not be using Gearbest again, of about 8 different China suppliers I purchase from they are the worse.

Blatantly lying, and falsely claiming this is the Yeahsmo, changing the pictures to show the SXK, and still selling it as Yeahsmo, slow shipping. They occasionally have attractive pricing, like the Goblin Mini, however who is to say your actually getting what you pay for from them, cheap clone, or the authentic product?

 

[cobalt327]

CCW, that is a bummer. At least you have some replacement tanks but still- GB really dropped the ball on this one.

On a brighter note, I ordered some 325 mesh from My Freedom Smokes, about 10:30 am on the 4th. They sent me an email saying it was delivered today (6-6 @ 12:14 pm) but I honestly didn't believe it, seeing as how it had only been two days, but damned if it wasn't in my mailbox today a little after noon!

 

[WattWick]

Been using the clone (sorry about that!) for a week now. Pretty nice. Mine came with a cracked tank glass as well. Made this my first gennie I run without seeing liquid levels. Which isn't that big of a deal since it holds a ton.

I can see where Buzz is coming from with his "hate" for the Nextgen. While I rather enjoy it, I've gotten another confirmation that these tiny chambers aren't 100% "for me". Unless ran at very low power/high air flow, they produce a too thick/moist vapor for my liking. Still, I don't really mind. I just prefer a more "cold, dry" vape. Then again variation is also nice.

While it is semi-decent to set up, I can't ignore the fact that this thing is a short circuit machine. I like to push and play a little, so I've welded mesh to the center tube several times during setup. Not a big deal if one is aware of it. Still, it is a poor design choice, imho.

Still, it's a keeper. Not best ever. Not bad.

 

[cobalt327]

It's the hassle associated w/wicking/coiling with Kanthal that keeps this atty from being a '10'. Once I get it to actually evenly heat the coil and not just burn either or both ends cherry red (or various other versions of a short circuit), it is a very decent vape, w/very good flavor. It also gets points for ease of filling, for not leaking and for simplicity (KFv4 having 40-plus parts is absurd). While using a TP mod may make things easier, that shouldn't be a requirement to have it work right. So unless I can set it up using Kanthal- in the gauge/resistance of my choice- w/no more trouble than a KFv4 or even a dual coil Aqua v2, those two will continue to be my "go-to" attys, not the Nextgen.

That said, I watched every video I could find online on wicking and coiling the NG. I have seen a few things I may be doing wrong, so next time I rewick/recoil if those things fix the problems I'm having, I will rethink its position in the greater scheme of things. Until then, overall I rate it below the KFv4 and Aqua v2.

 

[chia]

Must be 1st time lucky for me.. My 1st tank vapes fine, but 2nd ran into hotspots and leaks..
Been thinking about it, feels it could be the way the whole 510 is threaded into the base.. Needs to be real tight to work right, but everytime I takes off the cap to refil of change mod I run the risk of loosening a thread or 2 and mess with the intended air pressure inside, may be the reasons for leaks.. When I chain vapes for about 15 mins with the P3, I also tends to get a atty problem error.. Remove and put back and it's ok again ..

 

[TrollDragon]

I fully agree with everything you mentioned @cobalt327.

Tonight I tried Ekowool as the wick, the smallest I have is 2.5mm and it is too thick to wick at all. Pull the Ekowool, torch it and cut if off to size then put in over the center pin. Possibly a 1.5mm work work perfectly and wick properly.

Wrapped it in 0.5mm ribbon, fired nicely but no wicking.

Tore all that out and took my previous mesh wick, torched it red and quenched it in water 3 times.
Put a triple strand twisted 34g on it and it glowed red without any tweaking from the first fire.

Filled it and vaped it at 20W without a dry hit, quenching seems to be the way to get the wicks a little more oxidized.
I am going to bring in some 1mm and 1.5mm hollow Ekowool just to try out and see how that works.

I can now push my center pin down from the top and it pops right out. Doesn't seem to leak when pushed back in but I use a MaxVG juice.

I am waiting on Tobeco's Origen Genesis V2 MK II and the NG will probably go back in it's box. The Origenny will still leak if laid on it side but the flavor will be top notch!

 

[cobalt327]

More good photos! That's interesting about the Ecowool. I tried a "sock" of 2mm eco over the build pin, followed by an 18mm x ~35mm mesh wrap so as to not be too large diameter, followed by a 30 gauge Kanthal coil. Got constant hot legs or CHECK ATTY messages and never saw a consistent resistance reading- it jumped around from 2-point-something to 0.3 ohms. Just now I got it to work again (BTW, nothing I tried from the videos helped in the least), but I had to use 28 gauge. Tried 30 gauge three times and never got it to settle down. So I have to vape @ 0.7 ohms and I do not like being forced to subohm. Maybe this pos just won't work with 30 gauge, I don't know. But at least it's at 0.7 and not 0.3 to 0.5 ohms like the last few builds. I might as well go back to the twisted wire build- even though the resistance was lower than I wanted, it actually worked well and the coil 'came in' fairly easily.

I'm considering making a NR-R-NR coil for it using the 30 gauge resistance and 28 gauge Ni NR tails to see if that works any better. But this is total BS having to jump through hoops to get this thing to work quickly and reliably. I'm all about experimenting and such but I expect some reward for the time and effort expended. This is turning into torture more than experimentation for me- I have WAY better things to do w/my time than to be aggravated by a cheap-... clone. And before it came along my KFv4s and Aqua v2s were- and still are- working great. This is a classic case of the grass being greener...

 

[TrollDragon]

I have WAY better things to do w/my time than to be aggravated by a cheap-*** clone.

Isn't that the truth, just be glad you didn't pick up an authentic as I can just picture them having the same issues. (Except for the insulator popping out where the authentic is threaded.)

My Ekowool was way too thick, it had to be pulled till is was at it's smallest diameter, then torched and put in the hole from the bottom on the center pin. It was all measured to fit and went in nicely but way too dense to wick.

I also tried a 2.5mm sock over the mesh and got shorts as well. The Ekowool is just frays to easily when you have to handle it very much, even after torching it to an orange glow. (Which is good to keep the ends from fraying.)

At the start, I almost gave up on the Origenny till I started using mesh wicks in it. All my rayon builds would give me dry hits as the tank would vacuum lock itself and you had to leave out the fill screw. Might just as well use the Origen Dripper if you have to leave everything wide open...

I think we need a Rayon build in the NG just for S***s and Giggles, who knows it might even work with 30g wire. Push the center pin out, wrap it in Rayon with a little band of mesh at the bottom and top to hold it in place. Install, wrap and vape! No dry burn and a PiTA to rewick when you need to but would be cool.

Or even better still put your mesh in and just make a little Rayon sock/wrap at the top to insulate the 30g. I'll try this with my ribbon wire this week as it could be an easy solution!

 

[cobalt327]

I'll be watching to see how it works for you! I'm starting to think this atty has to use large diameter wire- at least with a conventional build. If this is the case there's probably no way I'll ever get a >/= 1 ohm build. To test this theory I'm gonna use some 26 gauge to see if the coil will come in w/o all the hassle. If it does I'm parking it until I get a mod built w/one of the Evolv TP boards I got from the recent co-op.

 

[BeerGolfClouds]

I can't get the air leak to go away in mine. It's not sealing well at the glass (tried the stainless tank piece too) or at the top cap. Juice isn't leaking, but I'm not getting a good enough vacuum to wick properly. Dry hit city. Either I have a dud (SXK from FT) or I just need beefier o-rings. This sucks...it vapes so well while it's juiced up and working properly, I'm not giving up just yet.

 

[cobalt327]

BGC, are you lubing the O-rings? I use some VG at all the joints to help it seal. You have probably done/checked all this already so disregard if it's old news. Are the O-rings all a little proud of the groove they sit in? I know the top cap O-ring has to be the right one- if a smaller thickness O-ring from the spares bag is used, it won't seal.

I used some 0.015" (~ 26.5 gauge) NiCr that came w/one of my drippers, it came in a LOT easier than anything else I've used for wire. I hesitate to say this is any sort of breakthrough but it does seem to indicate using lower resistance wire works better than higher resistance wire. I wrapped as much as I could on the mesh and got a 0.7 ohm build that's actually vaping well- even as low as 12 watts. It'll vape good at higher power, too- I tried it over 20 watts w/o any problems. The mesh wick is basically a large heat sink so w/the coil making good contact I'm not getting any dry hits. Chain vaping at high power could outpace the wicking ability but for how I normally vape, no problems.

I'm using the 400 mesh I just got from the eBay vendor I mentioned above. Not only was the price better than any other place I could find, but they made the effort to get it to me w/o folding/creasing it up like most other vendors. It came to me rolled up into a tube w/heavy kraft paper inside a cardboard container. Even the USPS couldn't bend it up, although they tried! The 400 seems to be wicking fine but I just started using it so time will tell if it's better than 325 or on a par w/it, or if 325 is better. Might try using the 400 over the 325. But for the moment, all's well (fingers crossed).

 

[BeerGolfClouds]

BGC, are you lubing the O-rings? I use some VG at all the joints to help it seal. You have probably done/checked all this already so disregard if it's old news. Are the O-rings all a little proud of the groove they sit in? I know the top cap O-ring has to be the right one- if a smaller thickness O-ring from the spares bag is used, it won't seal.

To your first point, absolutely And thanks for the vote of confidence!

As for your second point, that has to be the issue. Neither the black o-rings that came installed nor the red ones in the spares package appear to be substantial enough to support a good seal. I plan on going through all of my other spare packs after work today in lieu of heading to the hardware store, maybe I'll find a suitable replacement size in there. If I find a particular RDA/RTA spare pack with perfect o-rings for this atty I'll definitely make it known here for others that may experience this in the future.

 

[cobalt327]

I looked through my spares kits and I didn't find anything that fits the top cap. The cross section ("CS") is about 1.25mm. http://www.theoringstore.com/ has 1.2mm and 1.3mm CS O-rings so you might be able to match something up there. Didn't think to measure the other O-rings when I had it apart last time.

FWIW, when I put the NG back on the DNA Zero clone after having the top cap off to measure the O-ring and to refill it, the resistance changed from 0.7 to 0.5 ohms. No reason for this, that I know of.

 

[Jethead]

Does anyone know when the authentics FB order page will re open?

Does anyone know how to get in touch with the makers of the authentic?

 

[snow blind]

For some of you having issues with hot legs and spots... be very, very diligent as you wrap and monitor the "tension" you're putting into each of the wraps. Uneven wrap tension or spaces between coils and the wick paired with the stress of being snugged into the positive and negative terminals can ( most of the time ) lead to hot spots. Keep every wrap even in terms of tension... make sure every wrap is fully in contact with the wick in such a way that you can twist and move the wick underneath but just barely... and fasten screw-down terminals in the anti-clockwise side so that when you tighten you're not adding more tension to that bottom wrap. You'll have no issues then.

 

[BeerGolfClouds]

Well, jeez. My o-rings are working fine now, they are sealing tight (enough). The air leak is coming from that janky, press-fit center pin insulator. This clone is a pile. I still believe in the concept, and want to find a yeahsmo to see if there are any improvements. I'm not willing to invest in or try to hunt down an authentic just yet, that's for sure. Once I get a clone that works well and get to experience this thing's potential I may reconsider.

I have this one vaping sort of ok right now, I drilled out one juice hole to 1/16" to allow for some flow. It's not dry-hitting but it's not optimal.

 

[chia]

The 510 threads needs to be real tight, but then the post is too small to make it so. When I unscrew the cap to refil there is a real possibility that I am loosening the deck or even the 510 thread, making it leak.. Could this be a design flaw?