New Type DC-DC Converter Mod

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CapeCAD

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Also sorry to hear. Ya know, it wouldn't be a failure if it had comparable amperage but in a smaller tighter package. Like an inductor on the top and other components _below_ it, not next to it (hint hint ;) )

Or inductor over the other components
Boost.jpg
 

breaktru

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Also sorry to hear. Ya know, it wouldn't be a failure if it had comparable amperage but in a smaller tighter package. Like an inductor on the top and other components _below_ it, not next to it (hint hint ;) )

I actually did that, I crazy glued the inductor right on top of the controller chip, the diode right against the side of the cont chip and soldered everything right on the chip legs in a very tight package.
 

CapeCAD

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I actually did that, I crazy glued the inductor right on top of the controller chip, the diode right against the side of the cont chip and soldered everything right on the chip legs in a very tight package.

But the controller you used had an internal switch. A controller that uses an external mosfet would be required to achieve higher current.
 

CapeCAD

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Could the inductor be less than 10mm OD? Capecad, your schematic shows a 12mm, seems rather large.

Of course it can, that was just the symbol I had in the PCB software. I wound a much smaller inductor on my board. This was a first revision prototype, subsequent revisions were more compact.
 

CraigHB

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If you aren't terribly concerned about maximum achievable efficiency and want a chip with an internal energizing MOSFET capable of 20W output, check out the MAX1709. My first booster mod used one of those and it worked very well, super easy to design and build a converter with that chip. If you want a small inductor, the Vishay IHLP2525BDER1R0M01 is highly compact with reasonably low DCR and fairly high saturation. That's the one I used with it. In the end, the MAX1709 based converter lacked the efficiency I was looking for and is limited to 5.5V output so I've since moved on to another controller. Though, I'm not talking a big hit on efficiency, the MAX1709 still ran around 87% at 10W which is nothing to shake a stick at.
 
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Shekinahsgroom

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If you aren't terribly concerned about maximum achievable efficiency and want a chip with an internal energizing MOSFET capable of 20W output, check out the MAX1709. My first booster mod used one of those and it worked very well, super easy to design and build a converter with that chip. If you want a small inductor, the Vishay IHLP2525BDER1R0M01 is highly compact with reasonably low DCR and fairly high saturation. That's the one I used with it. In the end, the MAX1709 based converter lacked the efficiency I was looking for and is limited to 5.5V output so I've since moved on to another controller. Though, I'm not talking a big hit on efficiency, the MAX1709 still ran around 87% at 10W which is nothing to shake a stick at.

Let the brain melting BEGIN!! (As Tru would put it..)

Even though this stuff is waaaay over my head, I'm learning very quickly.

Have you seen the new ones that TI has recently been advertising, Craig?

I get e-mail updates from them on a regular basis and I'm just wondering if the "experts" in here have made anything with them??
 

breaktru

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But the controller you used had an internal switch. A controller that uses an external mosfet would be required to achieve higher current.

Yes Cape, but you would think if I used the exact parts as the circuit listed it would at least supply the amperage as specified. (3.6v In = 3.3 amps)
 

WillyB

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After my failed attempt at building my own booster, perhaps I will stick with the good ole 04050c.
I know a lot of you say it can't handle our needs, it does perform rather well with the right setup as demonstrated in this YouTube video: :blush:
I don't know Break, not much of a demonstration. Why are you using that gizmo, which I assume measures loaded volts, to only show us the unloaded volts? Why do you remove it when attaching your atty?

That's the same disingenuous 'technique' Sr Lawrence uses when demoing his PTs, showing us unloaded volts then removing the meter for the volts that really count.

You really have shown us nothing about the true capability of the 04050 or your mod. Except that it produces vapor.

Quite disappointed.... :(
 

breaktru

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I don't know Break, not much of a demonstration. Why are you using that gizmo, which I assume measures loaded volts, to only show us the unloaded volts? Why do you remove it when attaching your atty?

That's the same disingenuous 'technique' Sr Lawrence uses when demoing his PTs, showing us unloaded volts then removing the meter for the volts that really count.

You really have shown us nothing about the true capability of the 04050 or your mod. Except that it produces vapor.

Quite disappointed.... :(

I don't understand you at all Willy. You put the atty to your mouth, you gag and cough and blow a lot of vapor out. Isn't that what we are looking for in a vaping device?
Or........ maybe I used smoke and mirrors... :laugh:

For your information, I did not see much of a voltage drop. Perhaps a little more loss on the lower end (0.3v). About 0.1 volts above the 4 volt and up range. :p


Update:
I take it back, just tried it with an atty again, it's 0.1v loss at the 3.76v setting (lowest). That's 0.1v throughout the range.
Need to make you a video Willy.

Update 2:
Video shows NO loss. And...... you can't even see the mirrors....
 
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CraigHB

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Have you seen the new ones that TI has recently been advertising, Craig?

Links? Their product line is vast and I didn't see anything off-hand.

One device I used recently I thought was cool is this little buck converter. I used it to make a couple USB cig lighter adapters. Automotive stuff has to have at least a 35V tolerance (due to nasty voltage transients than normally occur in automotive electrical systems). That stuff is not easy to come by. I load tested it and even though it says the current limit is 1.5A, it can put out 2A continuously with little voltage sag. Be a good one to use for a direct USB passthru in the car if you use an atty 2.5Ω and higher.
 
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