I just got two a week or so ago. I changed out the drip[ tips and they are pretty good.
New Squape Rs 1:1 clone by SXK
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I just.. didn't drop it
never crossed my mind that you would...lol!
Heartiest congratulations on getting both the Squape R's Bloke sir . .
waiting to know which one i should order , hehehehehe ...
Ah and btw i did find my "Merkava " i looked and looked and looked , found it in a suitcase zipper ( the ones that are made in them to hold papers etc ) , the suitcase was in the loft , i had taken it abroad with me and had put it aside SAFELY , lol ..
Do i want anotherrrrrr atomizer , yes , do i neeeed another atomizer , gosh NOOOOO ...
" vape on the Squape " !!!
best wishes always
Sahil .
waiting to know which one i should order , hehehehehe ...
Ah and btw i did find my "Merkava " i looked and looked and looked , found it in a suitcase zipper ( the ones that are made in them to hold papers etc ) , the suitcase was in the loft , i had taken it abroad with me and had put it aside SAFELY , lol ..
Do i want anotherrrrrr atomizer , yes , do i neeeed another atomizer , gosh NOOOOO ...
" vape on the Squape " !!!
best wishes always
Sahil .
I would like to know though, if the parts are interchangeable - particularly the separate decks in singles (you got a couple of those, right?) or the Ivogo decks with the SXK base. Or if the red SXK tank works with the Ivogo base (Gina @3F kinda confirmed yes, but would like to know for sure)I just.. didn't drop it
So great of you to be doing this...
What sounds good to me right now is the Ivogo with $10 off + red tank for $9.99. Whatcha think?
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I would like to know though, if the parts are interchangeable - particularly the separate decks in singles (you got a couple of those, right?) with the SXK.
I can already confirm the authentic decks (well I believe they're authentic - I got them from 3FVape but they're not labelled 'style' and they have StattQualm stickers on them) work on the SXK. Well, at least that they fit. I haven't actually vaped on them yet, but given they fit surely they'll vape.
The positive pins of the Ivogo and SXK are slightly different lengths, with the SXK being maybe 0.25mm longer. Very small difference, and doesn't mean they won't interchange because there's a good deal of leeway in screwing in the positive - you can screw it in way too far, or have it sticking out a long way.
The screws are slightly different - SXK screws are slightly longer and have slightly bigger heads. But they are interchangeable - same thread type, and the posts appear threaded all the way down so a different length doesn't matter.
I'll check all the other pieces, item by item, a bit later and report back.
And it's a pleasure!
I've been vaping on the SXK a couple of hours. The flavour isn't great at the moment but that might be my build. The atomizer itself is solid, everything fits together well. And I like the red a lot - looks quite smart, even though it's not 100% red all the way down (the knurled ring above the AFC remains silver)
The Ivogo is not going well at the moment. I put a build on it and the ohms was fluctuating between 0.55Ω and 0.70Ω (actual coil ohms is about 0.45Ω). I took it apart and found that the lower deck base, the part that the positive pin screws into, was very loose. It then came out in my hand and I saw that the lower o-ring was split.
No problem, just put a spare o-ring in. That's what I thought. An hour ago.
This is the current situation:
You can just see near the top of the picture, the lower o-ring looping out of its little channel. All that blue stuff is Blue Tack, which I have resorted to using in a vain attempt to try to keep the rest of the o-ring from jumping out while I try to get the last bit in.
I have gone round and round, over and over and OVER again, with various tweezers. Poking it and pushing it and pulling it and bending it. I have spent at least 45 minutes of constantly trying. I simply cannot get the o-ring in all the way. It's like wallpaper, where you push in one bubble and another pops up somewhere else.
I have confirmed the replacement o-ring is the same size as the original. And I even tried putting back in the original, despite being split, and had the same issue. I took out the top o-ring to compare its size, and again the size matched, and then I was able to put the top o-ring back in in just a minute. Why this lower o-ring refuses to go in I cannot understand.
In a minute I might have to try and find a slightly smaller o-ring which maybe I can stretch to just the right size.
In the meantime, does anyone have any killer techniques for this sort of thing? It's driving me nuts.
Maybe if I heat the o-ring to shrink it a bit? Anyone know if that might work? It should, according to Google, for rubber, but I guess these o-rings are probably nitrile, not normal rubber. I don't know if that's much different.
Ugh, that one's the WORST - I just went through that a couple of weeks ago with my Ivogo SQR - it had popped itself out during a complete teardown and thorough cleaning in the ultrasonic (gunk develops between bottom plate and base after awhile). I did pretty much what you're describing, no tricks that I know of, except maybe to try to poke in the middle section of the "bubble" that pops out, then just keep doing that until it stops popping out. Slowly going around from one end did me no good - maybe try "quadrants" instead. Took awhile, but I think you just get lucky eventually. You have my sympathy.I can already confirm the authentic decks (well I believe they're authentic - I got them from 3FVape but they're not labelled 'style' and they have StattQualm stickers on them) work on the SXK. Well, at least that they fit. I haven't actually vaped on them yet, but given they fit surely they'll vape.
The positive pins of the Ivogo and SXK are slightly different lengths, with the SXK being maybe 0.25mm longer. Very small difference, and doesn't mean they won't interchange because there's a good deal of leeway in screwing in the positive - you can screw it in way too far, or have it sticking out a long way.
The screws are slightly different - SXK screws are slightly longer and have slightly bigger heads. But they are interchangeable - same thread type, and the posts appear threaded all the way down so a different length doesn't matter.
I'll check all the other pieces, item by item, a bit later and report back.
And it's a pleasure!
I've been vaping on the SXK a couple of hours. The flavour isn't great at the moment but that might be my build. The atomizer itself is solid, everything fits together well. And I like the red a lot - looks quite smart, even though it's not 100% red all the way down (the knurled ring above the AFC remains silver)
The Ivogo is not going well at the moment. I put a build on it and the ohms was fluctuating between 0.55Ω and 0.70Ω (actual coil ohms is about 0.45Ω). I took it apart and found that the lower deck base, the part that the positive pin screws into, was very loose. It then came out in my hand and I saw that the lower o-ring was split.
No problem, just put a spare o-ring in. That's what I thought. An hour ago.
This is the current situation:
You can just see near the top of the picture, the lower o-ring looping out of its little channel. All that blue stuff is Blue Tack, which I have resorted to using in a vain attempt to try to keep the rest of the o-ring from jumping out while I try to get the last bit in.
I have gone round and round, over and over and OVER again, with various tweezers. Poking it and pushing it and pulling it and bending it. I have spent at least 45 minutes of constantly trying. I simply cannot get the o-ring in all the way. It's like wallpaper, where you push in one bubble and another pops up somewhere else.
I have confirmed the replacement o-ring is the same size as the original. And I even tried putting back in the original, despite being split, and had the same issue. I took out the top o-ring to compare its size, and again the size matched, and then I was able to put the top o-ring back in in just a minute. Why this lower o-ring refuses to go in I cannot understand.
In a minute I might have to try and find a slightly smaller o-ring which maybe I can stretch to just the right size.
In the meantime, does anyone have any killer techniques for this sort of thing? It's driving me nuts.
Dear Bloke sir , put the o-ring in the freezer , heat i think may expand and / or disfigure it sir .
am sorry to hear that u are already having problems with the ivogo - Darn that sucks ..
waiting all this while and then gettin hit by crap within the 1st few hours ... eeesh .
Hope things will work out for u sir .
happy vaping , am off to sleep now . will chat laters .
best wishes always .
Sahil .
am sorry to hear that u are already having problems with the ivogo - Darn that sucks ..
waiting all this while and then gettin hit by crap within the 1st few hours ... eeesh .
Hope things will work out for u sir .
happy vaping , am off to sleep now . will chat laters .
best wishes always .
Sahil .
Wait...did the SQR even have that bottom one? hmmm...
When I had the jumping resistance with my Ivogo, I figured out it was more a problem with some play on the positive pin (not enough torque to keep it tight). I fixed mine by unscrewing the pin, inserting a Kayfun 510 insulator, then screwing the pin back in.
One of these:
Kayfun Positive Post Insulators - 5 pack - Kidney Puncher
When I had the jumping resistance with my Ivogo, I figured out it was more a problem with some play on the positive pin (not enough torque to keep it tight). I fixed mine by unscrewing the pin, inserting a Kayfun 510 insulator, then screwing the pin back in.
One of these:
Kayfun Positive Post Insulators - 5 pack - Kidney Puncher
OK thanks Cindy. I don't even know for sure that hte jumping resistance is related to the loose bottom deck, but I'm assuming it is. I need to get this fixed first anyway.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one. I guess it must be possible to do it, I just can't see how at the moment. I can't find any slightly smaller o-rings as yet, but will keep looking (or might try stretching a much smaller one.)
@sahilm don't worry, this is the advantage of buying two The SXK is vaping OK while I tear my hair out over the Ivogo!
Glad to hear I'm not the only one. I guess it must be possible to do it, I just can't see how at the moment. I can't find any slightly smaller o-rings as yet, but will keep looking (or might try stretching a much smaller one.)
@sahilm don't worry, this is the advantage of buying two
The SXK is vaping OK while I tear my hair out over the Ivogo!
Unrelated question - anyone know if there's a weight difference between 304 and 316 Stainless Steel? Someone earlier was questioning whether the SXK was really going to be 316. The Ivogo listing on 3F makes a big point that it's 316. The SXK also says 316 in its description, but not title
Anyway, I weighed the two main stainless tanks. The SXK is slightly heavier, by 1 gram. So I'm interested to know if there's any significant difference in weight between 304 and 316 - if there is, then I'd say they must both be 316 (I'm assuming the Ivogo definitely is 316, but as they make such a big point of it, surely it is.)
Anyway, I weighed the two main stainless tanks. The SXK is slightly heavier, by 1 gram. So I'm interested to know if there's any significant difference in weight between 304 and 316 - if there is, then I'd say they must both be 316 (I'm assuming the Ivogo definitely is 316, but as they make such a big point of it, surely it is.)
The 510 pin "pins" it down once you tighten it. The pin screws on to that plate - as long as you don't have any play up and down (you're able to get some torque when you screw in the pin), it should stay put laterally. The Kayfun insulator helped in that it centered the pin and worked as a spacer to provide said torque.OK thanks Cindy. I don't even know for sure that hte jumping resistance is related to the loose bottom deck, but I'm assuming it is. I need to get this fixed first anyway.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one. I guess it must be possible to do it, I just can't see how at the moment. I can't find any slightly smaller o-rings as yet, but will keep looking (or might try stretching a much smaller one.)
@sahilm don't worry, this is the advantage of buying two
I have no idea how I got that stupid o-ring in, but remember the feeling of great relief once I did. You'll get it.
...eventually. 
Yeah definitely one of my best looking tanks now. I particularly like the red
I guess you have very different airflow requirements to me. On the maximum, 3mm, it seems extremely airy to me, too much - I have trouble getting good flavour. I have got it on the third biggest hole at the moment, 1.5mm.
The AFC is good and bad - good that it has a nice positive 'click', and a huge range of different sized holes which in this instance I definitely prefer to a slider. It's got enough holes that most should be able to find the granularity they want (within the range 3mm to 0.5mm), and the advantage is that once you find your setting you can get it perfectly every time, rather than trying to judge position on an infinitely granular slider.
On the downside, you can't adjust the AFC with the tank screwed onto a mod. Won't be a big issue once one has found one's setting, but I've found it a bit of pain trying to work out what setting I want, as I keep having to unscrew it a little (a couple of turns, not all the way) to be able to adjust air.
Sorry, what do you mean "four sides at once" ?
This is about the best I can get it in - I think maybe a couple of times I got a little more in, but usually it looks like this:
Can you tell me where/how to poke from here?
Remove the o-ring. Place it over the slot. Tuck in four oposing sides, use a flathead screwdriver. Rotate 25 degrees and tuck in the next 4 oposing o-ring sides. Keep doing this untill the o-ring is set. Don't tuck too much on one go just the width of a small screwdriver.
The o-ring stretches if you do it circularly and you are left with too much slack at the end.
The o-ring stretches if you do it circularly and you are left with too much slack at the end.
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OK OK the problem is quite simple. There must be two different sizes of o-rings, very slightly different sizes. I just took the o-ring out of the top and put it in the bottom slot. Took me 1 minute.
Wish I'd tried that an hour ago. I put them side by side and on top of each other and they looked identical. But the bottom one must have a 0.5mm smaller ID or something ridiculous like that.
So now I don't know if this means the spares pack simply don't have the right sized o-ring, or whether one of the ones that looks identical to the others will actually work. Argh. Still, at least I now have the bottom o ring in and can try and get the top in instead which might be easier.
Wish I'd tried that an hour ago. I put them side by side and on top of each other and they looked identical. But the bottom one must have a 0.5mm smaller ID or something ridiculous like that.
So now I don't know if this means the spares pack simply don't have the right sized o-ring, or whether one of the ones that looks identical to the others will actually work. Argh. Still, at least I now have the bottom o ring in and can try and get the top in instead which might be easier.
Well , I have been there, too. Second Oring crisis.First one was the glass tank. I can assure you that this O ring does go back in and yes, the one from the bottom. It took ages to get it back in and was really frustrating....... and I don't know up to now,what I did that finally made it go in again. What I definitely know is that I am never going to touch it again, ever, if I don't have to. RIP!!
Ivogo is finally built and vaping. SXK took 20 minutes, Ivogo took 240 minutes
Nah can't really hold this against the Ivogo, a split o-ring is just one of those things and can't be complained about in a $30 clone. Then I did use the wrong o-ring in trying to replace the split one for a long time - though why there are two fractionally different sizes, differing by 0.5mm or less, I cannot fathom, but nor can I assume it's Ivogo's fault. Maybe the original has the same.
I am still not sure about the resistance in the Ivogo. It's been fluctuating a bit. But it might be the build, so hold this space for more info on that. There definitely was an issue with the positive pin at first - I screwed it to a level that seemed reasonable, and I got a connection on the mod. But it wasn't stable, the resistance bounced from 0.40Ω to over 1.0Ω at times. I extended the pin downwards a bit, making a firmer connection to the mod, and since then it hasn't fluctuated nearly as much. Still a bit, but as I say that could be the build.
The fact that it fluctuated at all does indicate the positive pin might be a problem - perhaps the small o-ring being unable to keep it stable, as Cindy said. I will experiment more with that later. I noted earlier that the SXK positive pin was slightly longer - seems like it needs to be. Though the difference is so small that I don't think that the SXK pin alone would solve it.
Will post more later after more experimentation.
Build, Titanium 26G
Looking quite snazzy on the Dicodes 2380
Nah can't really hold this against the Ivogo, a split o-ring is just one of those things and can't be complained about in a $30 clone. Then I did use the wrong o-ring in trying to replace the split one for a long time - though why there are two fractionally different sizes, differing by 0.5mm or less, I cannot fathom, but nor can I assume it's Ivogo's fault. Maybe the original has the same.
I am still not sure about the resistance in the Ivogo. It's been fluctuating a bit. But it might be the build, so hold this space for more info on that. There definitely was an issue with the positive pin at first - I screwed it to a level that seemed reasonable, and I got a connection on the mod. But it wasn't stable, the resistance bounced from 0.40Ω to over 1.0Ω at times. I extended the pin downwards a bit, making a firmer connection to the mod, and since then it hasn't fluctuated nearly as much. Still a bit, but as I say that could be the build.
The fact that it fluctuated at all does indicate the positive pin might be a problem - perhaps the small o-ring being unable to keep it stable, as Cindy said. I will experiment more with that later. I noted earlier that the SXK positive pin was slightly longer - seems like it needs to be. Though the difference is so small that I don't think that the SXK pin alone would solve it.
Will post more later after more experimentation.
Build, Titanium 26G
Looking quite snazzy on the Dicodes 2380
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