new gemini rta

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Hi does anyone had issues unscrewing the bottom contact post? I unscrew it to clean and something inside the air chamber unscrewed and cannot open the base to fix it. Cannot find instruction to open the base anywhere :( it seems that inside the base there is a metal piece that holds the positive post on the deck and a delrin piece rolling around freely now. Please if anyone knows how to open it, help me.
 

OCPratt

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Hi does anyone had issues unscrewing the bottom contact post? I unscrew it to clean and something inside the air chamber unscrewed and cannot open the base to fix it. Cannot find instruction to open the base anywhere :( it seems that inside the base there is a metal piece that holds the positive post on the deck and a delrin piece rolling around freely now. Please if anyone knows how to open it, help me.
I had the same issue. Quick fix is to put the top section of the Gemini on the deck/base of a griffin. These parts are cross compatible. I have not been able to take the base apart at all. I did manage to get a micro screwdriver in there to refasten the parts. There is a phillips head screw under the negative post. This loosens all the time on me and i have to tighten it daily. As for the posative, the pos pin in 510 actually threads into a plate/insulator for posative post. If your posative post gets loose, tighten 510 pin.
 

OCPratt

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Jan 2, 2015
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533
San Jon Nm
Hi does anyone had issues unscrewing the bottom contact post? I unscrew it to clean and something inside the air chamber unscrewed and cannot open the base to fix it. Cannot find instruction to open the base anywhere :( it seems that inside the base there is a metal piece that holds the positive post on the deck and a delrin piece rolling around freely now. Please if anyone knows how to open it, help me.
As for your case, some curved tiny tweezers, flashlight, precision screwdriver set and ALOT of patience can get it reassembled.
 
As for your case, some curved tiny tweezers, flashlight, precision screwdriver set and ALOT of patience can get it reassembled.

Thanks OCPratt, I tried yesterday evening to understand how to put it back together without opening it but don't really know how the 2pieces go back correctly...and I was going blind :cry:
This is a very poor design from the producer, if there is a chance for something inside the base to loosen there should be instructions on how to open the damn base :-x
I sent an email to vaporesso but still no reply...
 
I had the same issue. Quick fix is to put the top section of the Gemini on the deck/base of a griffin. These parts are cross compatible. I have not been able to take the base apart at all. I did manage to get a micro screwdriver in there to refasten the parts. There is a phillips head screw under the negative post. This loosens all the time on me and i have to tighten it daily. As for the posative, the pos pin in 510 actually threads into a plate/insulator for posative post. If your posative post gets loose, tighten 510 pin.

Actually it was tightening the 510 that everything did fall apart, my face was like :shock:
 

OCPratt

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Actually it was tightening the 510 that everything did fall apart, my face was like :shock:
Oh crap. Hope you didnt strip out the threads as they seem quite weak. There is an onsulator that goes on top of the posative contact plate. Sandwitch the insulator between the bottom of the deck and the posative plate. Then put in the posatiblve pin with it's insulator. I tried to get a picture of it assembled for ya but i dont have macro lense and am unable to get a visible picture of it. Wish i could like mentally send you what i see with my eyes. Best of luck! Or just go to myvaporstore or kidneypuncher and get a Griffin Deck to use.
 
Oh crap. Hope you didnt strip out the threads as they seem quite weak. There is an onsulator that goes on top of the posative contact plate. Sandwitch the insulator between the bottom of the deck and the posative plate. Then put in the posatiblve pin with it's insulator. I tried to get a picture of it assembled for ya but i dont have macro lense and am unable to get a visible picture of it. Wish i could like mentally send you what i see with my eyes. Best of luck! Or just go to myvaporstore or kidneypuncher and get a Griffin Deck to use.
Finally after almost 3 hours and numerous attempts to position the 2 pieces together, I managed to do it correctly and now the base works correctly :banana:
However this tank is really a disappointment, poorly build, weak and loose parts, the grub screws are very soft and went bad in a couple of builds (fortunately I had some other spare to change with)...I think this will be my last Vaporesso product.

Thanks a lot for the help :)
 

OCPratt

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Jan 2, 2015
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San Jon Nm
Finally after almost 3 hours and numerous attempts to position the 2 pieces together, I managed to do it correctly and now the base works correctly :banana:
However this tank is really a disappointment, poorly build, weak and loose parts, the grub screws are very soft and went bad in a couple of builds (fortunately I had some other spare to change with)...I think this will be my last Vaporesso product.

Thanks a lot for the help :)
Glad you got it!!!!
I would agree with you. First impressions were ....ok....
I have had mine for about 2 weeks and am already considering getting a new Griffin. Sold my last one to a friend and compared to the Gemini.....well lets just say i want my Griffin back.
 

TechnoGeek

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The BIGGEST issue I have with the Gemini is the 510 pin as well...

One it's NOT adjustable, and it is WAY TOO LONG! Good luck using it with any Joyetech/Wismec/eLEaf mods... Worked on my Cuboid, but wasn't flush, BUT I could tighten it so it wasn't loose. On the RX200, I had to leave it pretty loose, or else nothing but errors, no atomizer, bouning out of TC mode, etc...left it a bit loose worked fine. If I used a 510 heat sink, or spacer worked fine... The 510 pin on the Gemini is THE LONGEST of ANY RTA, RBA, etc.. Total from the base to the pin, 5.6mm!!!!

If you want to use this on a Joyetech/Wismec/eLEaf mod, use a 510 spacer, heat sink, neoprene washer, or something 25mm x .5mm to about 1mm thick! If you don't, expect problems, either immediately, or down the road...
 
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OCPratt

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Jan 2, 2015
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San Jon Nm
The BIGGEST issue I have with the Gemini is the 510 pin as well...

One it's NOT adjustable, and it is WAY TOO LONG! Good luck using it with any Joyetech/Wismec/eLEaf mods... Worked on my Cuboid, but wasn't flush, BUT I could tighten it so it wasn't loose. On the RX200, I had to leave it pretty loose, or else nothing but errors, no atomizer, bouning out of TC mode, etc...left it a bit loose worked fine. If I used a 510 heat sink, or spacer worked fine... The 510 pin on the Gemini is THE LONGEST of ANY RTA, RBA, etc.. Total from the base to the pin, 5.6mm!!!!

If you want to use this on a Joyetech/Wismec/eLEaf mod, use a 510 spacer, heat sink, neoprene washer, or something 25mm x .5mm to about 1mm thick! If you don't, expect problems, either immediately, or down the road...
Yea i actually filed down the 510 pin on mine. I use it on a vtc mini and it wobbled something wicked. After i filed it, it sit flush no wobble and makes good contact. Problem is the following time i removed the pin, the posative post on build deck came out and the little pieces in the airflow are rattling about. Havent cared to take time to try to get those frikken things put back. Just been usin my griffin instead.
 

TechnoGeek

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Problem is the following time i removed the pin, the posative post on build deck came out and the little pieces in the airflow are rattling about. Havent cared to take time to try to get those frikken things put back. Just been usin my griffin instead.

Yeah, that's about the third or forth time I've heard this happen. I ALMOST did the same thing, but luckily I did some 'google-foo' first and read about the issues with the pin. I've heard of people fixing it, but it is a PITA, and quite difficult.
 

BlackCRX

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Anyone having issues with the negative post being loose? I was getting random atomizer short errors and resistance was all over the place. Coil was 0.48ohm and it now wonders from atomizer short to as high as 1.07ohm.

Originally I thought it was coil. Took it all out and cleaned everything. While mounting the new coil, I realized that the negative post moves. Tried tapping it down with a hammer to try and press it back in, no luck.
 
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BlackCRX

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I was able to screw down my pin and get it to sit flush on my vtc mini. My issue is it leaks like crazy out of the airholes. I can't use it. I'm not talking a couple drops. I mean it gushes. I've rewicked 10 times no luck. Wonder if I screwed something up when I screwed in the 510????
Have you tried replacing the o rings?
 

BlackCRX

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So I replaced all the oringsand by friend wicked it and no more leaks... I'm so excited! !
Was his wicking any different than your wicking?
I'm willing to bet it was a bad o ring. Same thing happened to my Griffin, it was constantly leaking and I thought it was bad wicking, after a few tries I decided to change the orings and it solved all my leaking issues.
 

Nevweezy

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Was his wicking any different than your wicking?
I'm willing to bet it was a bad o ring. Same thing happened to my Griffin, it was constantly leaking and I thought it was bad wicking, after a few tries I decided to change the orings and it solved all my leaking issues.
That's the thing. His wicking was almost identical to my wicking. I rewicked it 10 times. Tried all different thicknesses and lengths too. I'm betting it was a bad oring. I'm just mad that I had to use all the extra orings they provided and now don't have any for future problems... thanks for all the help guys. I probably would have never replaced the orings if you guys didnt suggest it because they all looked good. Now i know for the future just cause they look good doesnt mean they are. I'm glad I got it dialed in. I love this rta. Vapes so much better than my herakles v2...
 

BlackCRX

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Feb 20, 2014
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That's the thing. His wicking was almost identical to my wicking. I rewicked it 10 times. Tried all different thicknesses and lengths too. I'm betting it was a bad oring. I'm just mad that I had to use all the extra orings they provided and now don't have any for future problems... thanks for all the help guys. I probably would have never replaced the orings if you guys didnt suggest it because they all looked good. Now i know for the future just cause they look good doesnt mean they are. I'm glad I got it dialed in. I love this rta. Vapes so much better than my herakles v2...
I can't say for everyone else, but for me.... the reality is 95% of the time I never use the spare parts. Reason is they usually don't fail or I have already moved on to a new tank/device. The way tanks are coming out these days I find myself with a new tank almost every 3-4 weeks.

Right now for example, my Gemini has a loose negative terminal and I email Vaporesso for a replacement deck. I love the Gemini but I have moved to the Aromamizer for the time being until my Bachelor shows up.
 
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