New Atomizer Coil Shape

[Vaporer]

Thanks Kate.
You always ruin a couple before you see how they are held together.
I tell people to save all thier bad parts. On most, if you cut the battery fitting out for a mod, enough tubing is left for an atty. The 801 and 201 are exceptions, probably more I havent seen. Works with the 510 and 901 well.

If you rebuild a few at a time it goes pretty fast. You can do 4-5 coil makings one evening, have a few ready and its not bad. I keep the duds in a drawer and pre-made coils in one. When I get a few I'll just use an evening to do them all. Batch style.
I want lots of pics in the tutorial. It's pretty much written, but I didnt have any bad attys. I got a couple in the mail the other day so I should be close. With all the diff styles I had to makes some decisions on how to present it.

The mesh is the resevoir for the liquid feed. The 801 has 2 holes in the bottom of the cup and as air is drawn in, liquid is misted from the mesh as air passes through the mesh and sprayed onto the atty coil. It normally floods easily unless you thicken the liquid. With PG liquids I always add abt 20-30% VG.

The nichrome wire is measured by length , then wrapped. 1 1/2" of wire will normally give you abt 3.4 ohms (36ga). I loop and hook the ends so depending on how much is folded back it will vary a little, but not enough to worry about.
This particular one I am up to 4.5ohms. Longer battery life and less heat to form carbon.
Personally, I think the cooler they run the more flavor you get and less chance of bad compounds forming.

My chemist friends are working on the homemade eliquid. Add a mod that uses "regular" batteries and if they ban, we won't be to bad off. If they allow it as an expensive drug delivery device, we can keep going way cheaper so it's not a lost cause.

 

[Kate51]

Thanks! We are all obligated to be self-sufficient, in case of terror attacks, good movies, lunar eclipses, or Chinese Holidays!
I appreciate your tenacity with all this.
Everything seems really hard till you step in the water and just flow with it. So sometimes a rock in the water seems like a good thing to hang onto for a little rest.

 

[jxmiller]

I found the pic I was looking for. Internals of a Greencig cartomizer:

Seeing this and browsing the interwebnets, I find interesting data regarding horse hair and "silica". Apparently horse hair has A LOT of silica in it. Looking at this picture makes me wonder...

Check it out for yourself.

Edit: Ohh and horse hair pottery is fired in a kiln... and it does not ignite.

Edit: Upon further reading maybe it does ignite...

 

[Vaporer]

Thats a common color for cooked e juice and staining.
Be interesting to see if it's white when new.
My white silica rope ones are abt the same color used.

Hair has that distinct odor when burnt. If it was horses hair and that black in the middle, I'd think you'd taste or smell it.

Interesting though.

 

[rbonie]

Ok, all the material links are in the original post.

Actually the 510 is a smaller diameter, but the thin band one is one of the easiest to disassemble without breaking things.

I need to post what this critter went in and I know what my next project will be!

Vaporer, How do you get 510's apart.Saw a post about acetone and tried that but, no joy! Any tricks??
TheOldMan

 

[HippyGirl]

Did I miss the link to the tutorial? Don't see it anywhere.

Thanks!

 

[Vaporer]

jxmiller,

I recently purchased a disposeable e cig from Home | My Freedom Smokes . After the battery was finished i disassembled the unit to inspect it for the posibility of a rebuidable unit. Surprizingly it has a rechargeable battery in it. What really got my attention was the atty. Its identical to the picture in your post #43. The wick is solid white, even after use. The remaining juice in the cart is water clear, not tinted at all.
I've had poly and fluval turn/tint to the color of the wick in your pic after repeated long use. The loop was inserted into a D shaped cart which had some poly fill in it.
I can see a future thread about rebuilding these with a micro recharging port in the end.

 

[Vaporer]

rbonie,

The way I seperate the fitting from the tube on a thin brass 510 atty is to drop it in boiling water for 15min. Then thread it onto a dead battery, put a small piece of sponge in the top of the atty to protect the metal foam. Next insert a drill bit that just barely fits in, wrap a piece of bicycle inner tube rubber around the atty body and grab it with pliers. Hold the battery with one hand and start moving the tube up and down (1/16" max?) while firmly grasped with the pliers. You will see the brass ring move slightly away from the tube. At that point you can start to pull lightly as you wiggle and it will work right off and the atty will slide out of the tube.
The tube can be slightly deformed when squeezing but if not deformed to much it will spring right back to shape.
I dont reglue after rebuilding and the splines on the brass fitting hold tight enough for normal use and seperates easily the next time.

 

[rbonie]

rbonie,

The tube can be slightly deformed when squeezing but if not deformed to much it will spring right back to shape.
I dont reglue after rebuilding and the splines on the brass fitting hold tight enough for normal use and seperates easily the next time.

Got any pics of the "rebuilding" process?? What size drill bit do you use?
How's the Tutorial going?

 

[bigred850]

I don't like the idea of using this "fire wick" because it has fiberglass. What else could be used as a wich that I could find at walmart or somewhere like that.

 

[bigred850]

What do yall thing of using a piece of a "stone bubble maker" to serve as a wicking material for a DIY atomizer? I was looking at a USA patented design and seen that foam ceramics was used as a porous material for the atomizer. A dense ceramic foam like that of stone bubble makers desined for fish tanks would be cool to use because it can be purchased anywhere aquatics are found and because of its porous and thermal conductive properties. I imagine it could be used for quite a while without much wear and tear.

Additionally, I have ordered a 10' quanity of nichrome 36ga wire and as of now plan on doing more research via USA patents website to design an atomizer of my own.

I purchased a disposable cigarette a few days ago by gamucci and the thing didn't last but 6 hours total before something went wrong with the atomizer. All that needs to be replaced is the power source and the atomizer. I plan on using USB power source and building my own handy-dandy atomizer.

 

[Vaporer]

rbonie,
I used an 11/32" drill bit , lightly spun against my dremel sanding wheel, and it fit in the 501 atty body very snugly.

 

[Vaporer]

bigred850,
If fiberglass is a concern you may want to choose your attys closely. All the models I have use this type of material for wicking. Or the silica based as previously mentioned. There are many diff types of fiberglass. Some is very flexable without breaking and home insulation type breaks easily into very small pieces.

As far as the ceramic question, no one so far has successfully found a type that can feed liquid fast enough. That would be better asked in a new thread where its in the title so more will see it. Very few will see your question buried deep in a thread of another topic.

 

[Vaporer]

The more time and things I think need to be addressed and other considerations such as so many different models, which I dont have, I think a tutorial can only be done as "How to make an Atomizer Coil". I can't possibly address all the questions and situations from equipment I've never seen. The coil seems to be pretty generic for most attys, except for cartomizers, which I've seen one pic of, and its mounted vertically with no ceramic cup. The do appear to be the same ohm range so connecting the coil ends shold be the only difference. But, with out having a few to examine I can't say for sure.

At this point, anyone wanting to try rebuilding thier attys should know how to take them apart in such a way they can be reassembeled. Or, if they have have to be cut, its possible the tubing from a dead battery can be cut for a new casing.
First search the atomizer forum threads for the model you are hoping to rebuild and see if there is a posting on how to do it. If not, start a new thread such as " How do I Disassemble a XXXX Atomizer?

If you cant get it apart, you cant start to rebuild or repair it.

 

[rbonie]

rbonie,
I used an 11/32" drill bit , lightly spun against my dremel sanding wheel, and it fit in the 501 atty body very snugly.

And you use this as a "handle" to hold the atty??
Had some luck with cut off wheel

 

[rbonie]

After long thought and looking at buildup on atomizer coils it was time for some serious rethinking.

Materials were 2ea. 1mm rods as a winding core and 1.25in of 36ga wire. Resulting in a 3.1ohm coil. This makes a coil 1mm wide x 2mm tall at its widest points plus the dia of the wire. (.005 in.)
My next one will use a 1.5mm top rod to more simulate the egg shape.


Edit:
Silica "fire wick" rope: My thanks to carlos49 for sending me some till I found it. It's the white braided rope used on wood stove doors.
From carlos49-"A word of advice if anyone is interested, get the loosley knitted type it's a lot easier to unknit without it breakinginto little pieces. McMaster-Carr
Some use the rope from hardware store kits.

Nichrome wire: 36ga (20ohm per ft) $2 for 10' free shipping from:
Nichrome Wire

In this post are you saying you "wrap" the coil on 2 1mm rods or are you wrapping it around the "fire wick"?
A picture of the process would be VERY helpful :>)

 

[Vaporer]

rbonie,
Its exactly as it looks. The wire is wrapped on 2ea 1mm rods for this article. If you want a round coil like the stock one, wrap around 1 rod only. The wire stays on the rod/s as a form to hold the coil so it isnt deformed. The wire is pretty tough and springy, but is easier handled and the wires soldered to it while still on the form. Leaving it on the form allows you to squeeze, pull, slide the coil to evenly space the wraps. If you want to wind it on the rod with the wick too, it can be done. I'll tell you its a fight to keep the wick in place though. It does seem to waste more material, but it may be easier for some to do it that way. You'll need to secure the wick to the rod on both ends.

Yes, spinning the 11/32" drill bit to the side face (carefuly) of a dremel cutoff wheel removing very little will allow the bit to slide snugly in the atty tube. It can be used as the "handle to wiggle the fitting loose if its threaded onto a battery or a bottoming tap.

This is becoming a tutorial isnt it?

IMPORTANT NOTE: I see I made an error in the wire length and cannot edit it.
With 36ga nichrome wire the length should be 2.25" not 1.25". 1.25" will only be 1.6ohms.

 

[rbonie]

rbonie,
Its exactly as it looks. The wire is wrapped on 2ea 1mm rods for this article.

Where in hell do you get 1mm rods?? A welding shop?? Would a decent hdwr store carry these??
Got some 36g wire comming. Need to access some of the "Silica "fire wick" rope". Hdwr store SHOULD carry it. We'll see.
Are you watching Quit4myKids's thread "

Replacement for nichrome coil." ??
VERY INTERESTING as they say on laugh in, (oooppps did I just date myself?? :>) )

 

[Vaporer]

Hobby shops have 1mm and .5mm rods. A sewing needle works just as well.
The 1mm dia is not a "have to" be size. Its very close as I can tell to a factory dia. Maybe a bit larger.

On an 801 atty you have a large open area to work in. On some of the 510's I've stripped the rectanular opening is 2 x 4 mm. A 1mm rod with .005 wire (36ga) wrapped on it takes up 1/2 the 2mm opening. That only leaves abt .25mm gap on each side for airflow. Thats cutting it pretty close for airflow. Closer is good, to a point, but any build up can quickly restrict the airflow.

The tools used are what works the best for the person. Just because I do it one way doesnt make it the right way or the only way. It just works.
I looked for a reference for sewing needle sizes in thousands of an inch. Never found it. Only ref size numbers like a #10.

Yes, I followed that thread for a while. Very interesting and an expensive project. The main problems with ceramic has always been feeding the liquid. I just skimmed it and it seems they have progress coming along. It could be much easier used for drippers until a new type of liquid feed can be developed. Cermaic would be classified as "dead" thermal mass. It doesnt create heat itself, can store heat though, but ultimately will need more power to use. It should be able to be cleaned of carbon buildup due to its durability.

 

[IAMREALITY]

I post a thread on using silica wood stove rope as wicking material in a cartridge, and I get blasted by a bunch of members and have my thread moved to some 'highly unrecommended ideas' forum or something; yet this thread which uses the exact same rope in the coil ITSELF is a sticky and praised by the same members? What the??? LOL