Need to replace IPV4(s)

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oly_r

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vapordna?
Seems like random bullet points.

Eciggity words it better,
Output Mode: POWER / TC-Ni / TC-Ti / TC-SS316 / TCR / VPC / BYPASS

That was the ad on GeekVapes site.

I just had to laugh when i saw that in the description of the mod you recommended. TOO FUNNY
 

Myk

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Jan 1, 2009
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UlkaHuren

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Jul 29, 2018
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Hello all, I have never been one to constantly seek new hardware so I've had my IPV4 for a long time. It is having issues now so I want to see what there is that I can move into. I like the dual 18650 aspect allowing me longer times between replacing the batteries. Not interested in built-in battery mods. I vape in TC mode at 30-40 j using the Vaporesso Kanthal Ccoils at .9 ohm in a Melo 2 tank currently. I'm not looking for the high wattage just to have it, i'm not pushing the IPV4 limits at all.

I have two excellent TC mods; the Vaporesso Polar with the Omni 4.0 and the GTRS VBoy 200W with the YiHi SX500. I’ve been TC vaping for a couple of years and know the tech very well. The VBoy is better for rugged use and also has a recessed display. The Polar which is a very nice looking mod I like a little better because of some option differences.

I’ve been building for TC vaping for a couple of years using NiFe52, stainless 316L, and Ni200 wire. You can’t TC vape Kanthal because the mod wants to see the resistance rise with temperature so it can use that to set the temperature. You can’t do that with Kanthal because it’s designed to maintain the same resistance when hot. Stainless 316L has a 0.00092 coefficient which is the tiny rise of resistance per degree that the mod senses to know what temperature the coil is running at.

The 2 mods I mentioned are both excellent and perform equally well. One trick that the Polar has is that you can lock in a TC resistance and then switch to a non TC tank using whatever resistance it has and when you put the TC tank back still hot the mod will have the locked in cold resistance.
 

oly_r

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For now, I'm not hurting, while I was teleworking yesterday I saw a box that I had forgotten about. I had bought some stuff when a few places were going out of business (around the deeming). I remembered the rebuildable heads that I had in there, but there were also a Cuboid 150 and KBox 120. Using the kbox right now with my Melo 2 tank, tried the .5 TC TI and it just doesn't seem to work well so switched back to my Kanthal Ccell coils in VW mode. I may not know how to use the TC since I haven't been but VW is okay with the CCells. I'm going to be looking over the mods recommended here but I can wait for sales or deals to come.

I really appreciate the knowledge you all have shared with me.
 
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TrollDragon

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For now, I'm not hurting, while I was teleworking yesterday I saw a box that I had forgotten about. I had bought some stuff when a few places were going out of business (around the deeming). I remembered the rebuildable heads that I had in there, but there were also a Cuboid 150 and KBox 120. Using the kbox right now with my Melo 2 tank, tried the .5 TC TI and it just doesn't seem to work well so switched back to my Kanthal Ccell coils in VW mode. I may not know how to use the TC since I haven't been but VW is okay with the CCells. I'm going to be looking over the mods recommended here but I can wait for sales or deals to come.

I really appreciate the knowledge you all have shared with me.
You can put Arctic Fox firmware on the Cuboid and it will work very nicely in TC. The only problem with the Cuboid was a really poor 510 connector (typical Joyetech) and will start throwing Atomizer Short errors after a while.
 

Herge

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Jun 21, 2016
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Well I had an IPV-5 whatever you do don't get that. LOL. It just chewed through batteries like it was made of alligator teeth, and no manufacturer of the IPV-5, the RIBBON doesn't help.


But there is tons of options out there and Etc. Or, I can send you my IPV-5 lol, it's pretty beat up and still works, you should probably buy about 50 batteries up front, though, just saying. LOL.

Anna

Interesting. I am presently using a IPV-5 and it is one of the less power consuming mod i own. Perhaps i have bad reference? :blink:
 
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score69

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I've still got an IPV4 and IVP5 brand new in the boxes. I will probably use them one of these days. Probably the equivalent of a rotary phone when I do, but all of the ones I've used in the past were extremely reliable for me. The only one I ever had go bad was an IPV Mini, that had an entire tank of juice leak into it. I can't blame the mod for that.

I have an IPV D2 sitting on my desk right now that I used just this week. Not even sure how many years old it is at this point. Paint is almost all completely scratched off, but it works great, lol. I also have a IPV D3 and IPV D4 that are still in the box. These were solid little mods for me. I honestly wouldn't mind having another IPV Mini. I really liked that mod.

I really enjoyed many of these and other mods that had the simple (compared to now) YiHi chips in them. Brings back a lot of memories.
 
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stols001

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No , when I said chewed through batteries, I meant literally. They were a super tight squeeze and really hard to get out, and degraded a lot of my battery wraps, even with the ribbon.

I actually kind of liked it as my first "box mod" and other than the battery issue, it was fine. I mean it was serviceable, it did the job, and like, it was a perfectly fine mod, especially as a beginning vaper, I didn't need anything fancy at the time, at all.

I still have mine, I dropped it a jillion times and etc., and it held up well apart from one rather large dent.

I've moved on to other stuff but mine still works, and I still keep it for sentimental reasons, it was my quitting mod but like, I've moved on to other stuff.

I wouldn't term it a bad mod in any way, and I'm sure if I used it today, I'd have an easier time with it, I mean, I know more about batteries and how to treat them gingerly and whatnot, but no real COMPLAINTS exactly and etc.

Anna
 
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