My DIY Passthrough for TECC 510 Titan (JOYE510).

[silentminja]

I just got done making my own manual switch JOYE510 usb passthrough. Since the Titan hits like a champion, I chose to modify this instead of the DSE 901 that everyone is modding nowadays for passthrough.

I took the top LED cap off of the battery and set it aside, then removed the insides of the battery with needlenose pliers. It came out fairly simple, just rip it out of there. I then sanded the inside of the battery casing with a toothbrush wrapped in 50 grit sandpaper, just at the top on the inside of the tube.

Next, I used a small trim nail and pounded it through the hole in the screwthreads at the bottom of the battery into the inside of the case. This popped loose the other disk that was stuck way down inside there, which I also discarded. Now I had an empty battery tube with only the screwthreads remaining for the atomizer

I took the empty battery tube out to my shop, clamped it, and drilled a small 3/16" hole in the case at the top where the LED and cap used to be... probably about 1/4" from the tip of the tube. this is for access to the switch

Then, I stripped away the USB cable, cut off and removed the white and green wires. I was left with a red and black wires. Since USB cables are all different, I tested the voltage with a volt meter before cutting away the useless wires.

Going back to the LED cap I took off earlier, I put a small hole just big enough for a USB cable to fit through it in the middle of the cap, and slipped it through the cut end of the cable. This allows to put the cap back on and seal the project in the finishing stages.

Next, I stripped off the end of the red wire which I fed down the tube and into the opening of the battery threads. I soldered it to the hole in the center of the screwthreads, pulling slightly as I dropped the solder onto the hole (this made it concave, pulling the solder into the hole slightly so I could fit the atomizer on better)

After that, I stripped away the end of the black wire and connected it to a switch. I used a button switch I found on an old stud finder that didn't work anymore... but this switch was PERFECT because it fit nicely INSIDE the case, with the button facing underneath the hole I drilled earlier.

But before stuffing the switch, I soldered the stripped black wire end to one side of the switch. Then using the green wire piece I had discarded earlier, stripped both ends and soldered one side of the green wire to the other side of the switch and then to the inside of the casing. (very tricky to get it to stay, but if you're as good as soldering as I am, piece of cake, lol..). Since I sanded the inside of the case well I had lots of nice deep scratches that will help to hold the solder in place.

With everything soldered and in place, I used a small amount of electrical tape and shrink wrapped it all as best as I could with a lighter. I then slid everything inside the case... nice snug fit, but not too snug to remove if I ever need to. I then plugged it in and tested the draw, and the button function using the end of a pencil pushed in through the hole I had drilled. Success! The vapor nearly blew my head apart, and I was NOT used to THAT coming from any vaporizer I had ever tried.

So with all the parts working, I slipped the end cap up the wire and glued the edges onto the battery casing with standard super glue, adding extra glue around the cable on the inside of the cap, and a few dabs on the outside (to re-inforce the wire, making it connected to the cap, so nothing gets too destroyed if the wire is accidentally yanked on).

Then I used the tube bottle cap that my glue came in (the red cap on the Krazy Glue storage tube) and cut a small square out of it using a utility Xacto knife. VERY, VERY carefully I glued the end of the small plastic square onto the top of the button which resided in the case, beneath the hole I drilled. The amount of glue used was a VERY TINY amount. I didn't want to get glue seeping down on that button gluing it shut. After about an hour of drying I tested, it worked amazing (Feels like a Janty manual switch button).

I then took and painted the end cap and around the button white. In the future I will give this a custom paint job with the automotive paints I have laying around. Well... what does everyone think?

I'm using a new version of Linux OS and I'm having a hard time displaying pictures on the forum for the time being (need to install new packages yet). I'll just do this for now... if you wanna see the pictures click the links below:

JOYE510 Custom Passthrough 1
JOYE510 Custom Passthrough 2


Please forgive the image quality, the only digicam I've got right now is on my iPhone, which does not handle macro shots very well.

Also check out my Altoids carrying case for the road:
It's a pretty simple case, but it carries a lot, and it's easy to replace if it gets banged-up. I just used the foam that came in the case with my DSE-901:
Custom Altoids Carrying Case for Travel 1
Custom Altoids Carrying Case for Travel 2

 

[Fox3]

Next project when I get the new 510 kit and have plenty of spare atomizers.

Made one for the 801 last night and it finished off my last atomizer :-(. Not too surprising in that it has been ridden hard and put up wet for a couple months now. If Dietsmokes ever ships the 3 I ordered for it on 3/25 I'll try again. Resistance to the coil went up from 3.6 ohms to around 200-300 so I might try the ultrasonic cleaner and then a pass through the lemon juice to see what happens, nothing to loose at this point .

I'm also using an Altoids case for going out. Just using tiny bubble wrap lining and nothing like the nice job you did on yours. I did snarf the stuff the 801 came in to do the same kind of thing, just haven't done it yet since the 510 looks like it is going to become my primary .

A good while back I made up a power injector for my Nokia N800 as it can't supply much for USB devices. Seems like a good idea for the USB passthrough rather than taking a chance on toasting expensive computer peripheral :

Index of /~vw/tmp/USB-PI

Crappy pictures from the n800 camera and crappy lighting too, the PDF is the schematic.

Good to see other linux folks here. It takes time to get everything useful loaded, but easy enough once you know what you want / need . I've replaced everything m$ except fliight sim, but since they discontinued that, I guess we go with FGFS and then we'll be completely m$ free !

Thanks for sharing!

 

[BeRight]

WOW-very impressive-thanks for sharing

 

[silentminja]

Next project when I get the new 510 kit and have plenty of spare atomizers.

Made one for the 801 last night and it finished off my last atomizer :-(. Not too surprising in that it has been ridden hard and put up wet for a couple months now. If Dietsmokes ever ships the 3 I ordered for it on 3/25 I'll try again. Resistance to the coil went up from 3.6 ohms to around 200-300 so I might try the ultrasonic cleaner and then a pass through the lemon juice to see what happens, nothing to loose at this point .

I'm also using an Altoids case for going out. Just using tiny bubble wrap lining and nothing like the nice job you did on yours. I did snarf the stuff the 801 came in to do the same kind of thing, just haven't done it yet since the 510 looks like it is going to become my primary .

A good while back I made up a power injector for my Nokia N800 as it can't supply much for USB devices. Seems like a good idea for the USB passthrough rather than taking a chance on toasting expensive computer peripheral :

Index of /~vw/tmp/USB-PI

Crappy pictures from the n800 camera and crappy lighting too, the PDF is the schematic.

Good to see other linux folks here. It takes time to get everything useful loaded, but easy enough once you know what you want / need . I've replaced everything m$ except fliight sim, but since they discontinued that, I guess we go with FGFS and then we'll be completely m$ free !

Thanks for sharing!

The best atomizer cleaning solution I have used is Phosphoric Acid. You can order it online, the best source I found so far is:
DGR Industrial Products, Inc. :: Generic Chemicals :: Phosphoric Acid, 85%, 500ml

There were people using coca-cola to clean the atomizers, which worked because of the very small amount of citric and phosphoric acid in the soda. I use a mix of phosphoric acid 20%, citric acid 10%, and ethanol/methanol 70% (a solvent made of ethanol and methanol or wood alcohol). I tested this on an atomizer I took apart which was blackened on the inside from over-use. After 3 days of soaking all of the stuff came off simply with running it under standard tap water. I would recommend using this, soaked over-night, and then using a steam cleaner to blow out both sides.

Also, when you make a passthrough make sure you test out all of
the connections before plugging in. When you do plug in it's always good to use an inexpensive USB wall-outlet or other USB device other than a computer. You're right, wouldn't want to fry out your expensive electronics, lol.

And as far as Linux goes... it's always a pain out of the box compared to windows, but once you get it up and running, it's amazing what you can accomplish with this OS... lol no one realizes but us how awesome this OS truely is.

 

[bri1270]

Is that a manual passthough to boot?

Looks awesome. Can I have one?

 

[reallango]

Nice Job. Very slick. Although I prefer the button closer to the Atty. Here's the 510 Pass-through mod I'm currently using. First I started with a 15$ Pass-through from esmokeyshack. I wasn't very happy with this thing as the battery really seems to hold it back so I decided to add a bypass switch for 5volt vapeing straight from the usb but allowing the battery to keep charging and still be usable when not by a usb port. Here's the pics.

I hope the pictures aren't to bad and show up properly as they were taken with a garbage iphone cam and are being shared from my personal Linux server.

I want to thank warp1900 for the PVMA design and all those who have posted about fixing the 510 pass-through by bypassing the battery.

I know it's not pretty to look at but I will be putting it in a bigger case when I get one. Plus when my 2200mah batteries get in as the 360mah this thing comes with blows. I hope the charger will be able to handle the bigger battery.

I'm sure I'll be making some like yours as soon as some of my batteries start to go. I just hope to be able to get the button closer to the stock position with out screwing it all up.

But I have to say the 510 kicks like a mule at 5 volts.
now just to see how hard this thing is on the old Atty.

 

[AlmightyCoRnDogg]

This is an awesome project. I really like the Altoids case... very handy. I'd really like to build a charger into one of those, but that'll be another story. Anyway great job!!


Your Friendly Neighborhood,
CoRnDogg

 

[pistolpete]

Well done,keep up the good work.