Mesh Wicks and Hot spots

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EDO

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I am running my genesis atomizer with mesh wicks again. The vape is tremendous. The only complaint I have is that once I set up a wick and it is working perfectly (meaning all the coils are glowing perfectly evenly) it will last at most a day before I have to dry burn and glow the coils again and pulse out the hot spots that have developed. I use the Petar K method where I make the coil first and insert the wick afterwards. I am using a jig to wrap perfect coils using 26g wire. All the wraps are touching. I am doing flexible hollow wicks that are lightly torched. Once I insert the wick in less than 30 seconds I pulse out the coils and everything is perfect....the coils are glowing from middle out. The only problem is after about a day of use I can hear the juice popping really loud. Every time I check I see that either there is a hot spot or only one coil is glowing. What could I do to make the build more stable? Having to pulse out hot spots everyday is a PITA.
 

EDO

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No wicking is fine....the wicks are hollow and I tilt when I vape so I don't think that wicking is the problem. When the wick is wet I am not seeing the glowing coils....but I do notice that liquid is popping. It is when I glow the coils dry I notice that only one of the coils is glowing instead of of all of them like when I originally set it up.

Imarrk might be right... maybe I need more contact between the coils and the wick. When setting up with cotton if you don't have enough cotton going through the coil the coil keeps popping the juice. It might be the same here.
 

EDO

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Sounds like the wick is too tight in the coil. You want it just tight enough that it won't fall out when upside down but will slide easily by hand.

I can pull out the wick no problem. I am doing the Petar K method. Since I haven't done a mesh wick in almost two years I searched for his instructional video to see if I was doing something wrong. . He updated his instructional video. Now he recommends a very tight fitting wick. He uses an little tool to really tighten the wick in the coil.

Here is the video:

the vaper v3 - Improved No Oxidizing Method on Vimeo
 

WattWick

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I wrap my coils pretty tight. Not super tight. My wicks sometimes have grooves in them when the coil is eventually replaced. Not burnt grooves, just the coil digging in. The one place I don't want my coil too tightly wrapped is where it leaves the wick to jump to the center post. Else be dragons.

It's not that I try to wrap them very tight. I think there might be some thermal contraction/expansion action going on that plays better with a snugly wrapped wick than a loosely wrapped one. Just thinking out loud. Don't search me for scientific evidence. Haven't got any.



ETA: Just something to keep in mind. The steeper angle you wrap your coils at, the looser they will get if moved around for any reason. May be a combination of this and installing with the Petar K method which may leave you with a sort of loosely set wick that may be susceptible to bumpage. A hot coil is more often a sign of poor contact than a hotspot 'short'.

Not dissing the Petar K method. Just pointing out something to be aware of when using it :)
 
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EDO

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ETA: Just something to keep in mind. The steeper angle you wrap your coils at, the looser they will get if moved around for any reason. May be a combination of this and installing with the Petar K method which may leave you with a sort of loosely set wick that may be susceptible to bumpage. A hot coil is more often a sign of poor contact than a hotspot 'short'.

I am doing coils that are touching so there is no angle. But I was doing a very loosely fit wick. On top of that I had poor contact on the top coil so your comment that a hot coil is more often a sign of poor contact than a hotspot 'short' is spot on (no pun intended:p).
 

EDO

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I was banging my head against the wall yesterday. I made the perfect coil with a jig.....this time I made a tight fitting wick. I checked with a magnifying glass to make sure I had perfect contact everywhere (specially at the top coil). It took a lot of pulsing and long while for the coils to glow evenly. The initial vape tasted a little metallic but after a half a tank the vape was tremendous. But this lasted only a few hours and then I could taste that the set up was shorting. Took out all the liquid and dry burned the coils....and sure enough there was a short and only one coil was glowing and it was glowing red hot.



Sounds like the wick is too tight in the coil. You want it just tight enough that it won't fall out when upside down but will slide easily by hand.


I decided to go with your advice and make a loose fitting wick. With three pulses and in less than five seconds I had all 12 coils glowing evenly. It was the same way for my dual coil set up... in less than ten seconds I had 24 coils glowing evenly. Something about this seemed familiar. I never remembered spending too much time pulsing before. I remembered I used to tilt the device and do a bunch of ten second wet burns to prime the coils. So I did that. Actually the first vape was pretty good. I chain vaped on it for a couple hours and the vape got better and better....no shorts. Lets see how long it lasts.
 

EDO

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Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I feel like a noob to Genesis atomizers again but your suggestions are really helping me out. I went looking for videos on how to set up a genesis atomizers and I found this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUuGmchIZuw

He is a real artist at setting up a genny. I pretty much did everything in the above video and everything came together. It is much closer to what Petar K was originally doing. First make the perfect coil and then make a perfectly circular and flexible wick and fit it loosely inside the coil. The latest Petar K video (that I posted in the previous page) through me into a loop. His new method wasn't working for me all.
 

Chelonian

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Glad we could help.
Gennys are all about trial and error - and work. Its why so many people give up on them, or fall back to cotton.

However, if you keep at it, you will get it, and the rewards outstrip any other system.

Its a nice sense if accomplishment as well, since you have achieved something that many others gave up on. A good mesh setup really does give the best, hassle free vape. The worst thing about it is trying to pass it on.

People get frustrated hearing that when its set up right, you dont have to tilt, or that mesh is better than cotton, and no dry hits - when they cant get it there themselves.



Redacted
 

EDO

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Its a nice sense if accomplishment as well, since you have achieved something that many others gave up on. A good mesh setup really does give the best, hassle free vape. The worst thing about it is trying to pass it on.

People get frustrated hearing that when its set up right, you dont have to tilt, or that mesh is better than cotton, and no dry hits - when they cant get it there themselves.



Redacted

Well I used the orignal Cobra for almost two years most of that time with mesh. But as soon as I started using silica and then cotton as a substitute to mesh....I gave up on mesh. Until two weeks ago I would have said you're crazy there is no way mesh can be set up to be better than cotton. But Once you set up mesh perfectly it is the best vape hands down. Both my drilled out Kraken and the Origen V2 outperform all my drippers set up with cotton.


Now for the question of the day. I have the same exact set up in my Origen v2 and my Kraken. I can vape my favorite Ry4 in the Kraken and not have the juice change color while the same juice in the Origin V2 goes about 5-10 shades darker by the time I get to the bottom of the tank. Now the taste of the origin v2 is great and the vape is smooth as silk. There are no hot spot and the juice isn't popping or anything. I have cleaned the origin v2 coils but that didn't help....it didn't seem dirty to begin with. I took out the filing plug and that seemed to help a little but again not that much. I lightly torched the wick in the Origen v2 while I didn't in the Kraken. But can lightly torching the wick make so much difference? I just don't think so. I do notice that Origen v2 gets hotter than the Kraken when chain vapin...maybe it is enough to cook the Juice? Any Ideas in what is going on here?
 

Chelonian

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You just hit on both reasons that your juice is being darkened.
1). Torching
You should only torch one part of the wick - - The part that the coil is mounted on.
2). Heat. Reduced chamber gennys make a lot more heat

I have had the same problem with Origens that you have. Thats why i don use them anymore

And congratulations on getting mesh right. The dripper is the only way that I am able to prove mesh to most people.


Redacted
 

EDO

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Thanks Chelonian.....that makes a lot of sense....yes the chamber is a lot smaller on the Origen V2 isn't it. Also there are parts of the Origen v2 that are paper thin so it is really prone to heating up. I definitely wont be torching the bottom portion of the mesh anymore since there really isn't any need. Even though the Origen v2 is a pretty cool atty, I like my modfied Kraken more.
 

Chelonian

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If you aren't quenching, and no longer torch the wick that is going in the tank, and are still getting juice being darkened, one of two things is heppening:

1) Heat - sorry, but I couldn't tell if you were still talking about vaping on the V2

2) If not heat, then change your source of mesh. I have run into mesh that releases some icky stuff into the juice. you can actually taste it. Buerk :p
 

EDO

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Well I am using the same mesh on both atomizers.....so that can't be it.

Hmmm.....maybe I am quenching. Initially I am not. But when I wanted to clean the mesh/coils....I did dry burn the coils/mesh until they were glowing and then ran everything under water and did another dry burn again. I have done this a few times. Since the coils and mesh were glowing before putting in the water....I guess this can be viewed as quenching. Again all this is with the Origen V2....with the Kraken I can go to the last drop and there is no change in juice color at all....so I haven't tried to clean it at all. I am very curious how does quenching contribute to the change in color of the juice?

BTW thanks for all the help.
 
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