Just as the title says..just bought a kayfun lite +/ Russian 91% clone, and the drip tip gets hot after a few hits..using mvp 2.0 that only goes to 11 w ( which is where I usually vape) with 1.7 coil/cotton wick..should I just look into another drip tip made of a different material? This is my first rta..my protank 2 tip never got hot even when chain vaping..the tank would warm up pretty good, but never the drip tip.
Kayfun L + drip tip getting hot
- Thread starter gatorchin
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That's one of the reasons I don't like stainless tips. Although unless chain vaping, I wouldn't expect it to be much more than warm, although I don't generally vape at 11. (More like 9ish 
) And if you're using the all metal config on your KF, the heat transfer through it will be more than what you got on your PT2, where the class isolates the vaporization chamber from the top.
Aluminum may be ok for you, or any of the synthetics.
) And if you're using the all metal config on your KF, the heat transfer through it will be more than what you got on your PT2, where the class isolates the vaporization chamber from the top.Aluminum may be ok for you, or any of the synthetics.
Stainless drip tips will naturally get hotter than other materials. You could source another tip, Delrin tips would be my first option.
ok..thanks for the tips..i have another question..i tried fitting my tip from my protank, and it was just a touch too small..so im wondering if i will have trouble with other 510's fitting this atty??. i guess if its made from delrin or something like that, i could sand it down to fit if need be..im guessing my protank has an aluminum drip tip..guess i'll get on the hunt for a new tip that'll get to me fairly quick
its weird tho, when i hold my protank tip along side the kayfun tip, to the naked eye they look exactly the same size...but the protank is just a little bigger..bummer
vape on
gatorchin
its weird tho, when i hold my protank tip along side the kayfun tip, to the naked eye they look exactly the same size...but the protank is just a little bigger..bummer
vape on
gatorchin
Kayfun drip tips are rather proprietary. Some clones have been built accommodating standard drip tips, and an adapter is available to allow the Kayfuns to accept standard 510 drip tips. But, there is a small different in size. To use standard tips in a Kayfun, I would recommend one of the adapters. Another option is to replace the top cap of the Kayfun with one of the many available at Fasttech.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009156/1799900-replacment-top-cap-mini-top-cap-for-kayfun-lite
For drip tips, there are many non-metallic options to limit heat. Delrin, rubber, ceramic, glass, etc. One I just tried that I really like is this:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10011182/1959912-ox-horn-stainless-steel-510-drip-tip
Doesn't get hot, cleans well and feels good on the teeth.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009156/1799900-replacment-top-cap-mini-top-cap-for-kayfun-lite
For drip tips, there are many non-metallic options to limit heat. Delrin, rubber, ceramic, glass, etc. One I just tried that I really like is this:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10011182/1959912-ox-horn-stainless-steel-510-drip-tip
Doesn't get hot, cleans well and feels good on the teeth.
I chain vape on my metal Kayfun all day at 16 watts (1 ohm coil) and my drip tip never gets hot. It doesn't even get warm. The tank does, a little. That's weird yours does.
Might just be a difference in the o-ring. In general, 510 type drip tips are pretty interchangeable, but some aren't made to really precise tolerances. And there's variation in the o-rings as well.
maybe its a clone thing?? i dont know..like i said this is my first rta..and i got it from fleabay..
Kayfun Lite Plus Russian 91 Clone w New Topcap Seal Made 2 Spec V3 1 Side Adj | eBay
if you read the info they kinda took certain aspects from both tanks and combined into one..the threading seems to be quite nice..orings seem to be of a good quality..but it does say "new top cap seal"..so maybe that's why the 510 tip from my protank wont fit? in any case i took i went ahead and got another top cap from FT so hopefully that will fix the drip tip deal..but still not sure why that heat is making its way up after only a few hits..i did dial it down to 9 watts and that seemed to help..but ideally i shouldn't have to do that..i should be able to vape at 11 watts no problem..as i said...and i am using the glass (or whatever material its made from) center piece right now.
Thanks..i put my order in for the top cap you suggested but went with a different drip tip..hopefully i dont have to wait to long for it to get here...this will be my first order with FT
The o rings on the protank drip tip and the kayfun are exactly the same size..the ends where they fit down into the top cap, when held side by side or end to end, look exactly the same as well (to the naked eye)..but the end of the protank tip that fits into the top cap wont even come close to going in..when putting the kayfun into my protank top cap, it is pretty loose...if some one follows the link to the atty i bought and reads #2 on the specifications/changes made to this atty, it might explain why i am having trouble fitting a regular 510 in there...maybe
Kayfun Lite Plus Russian 91 Clone w New Topcap Seal Made 2 Spec V3 1 Side Adj | eBay
I suppose it could have been machined wrong, stranger things have happened 
If you have some other tips, and they ALL don't fit into the top of the KF, that becomes more likely.
By "new top cap" they mean redesigned. Early ones, the tiny o-ring at the top of the chimney was a press-fit into the top cap. Later models it was in a slot within the cap, so it would stay there Wouldn't have any effect on the tip, which is on the other side of the cap.
If you have some other tips, and they ALL don't fit into the top of the KF, that becomes more likely.By "new top cap" they mean redesigned. Early ones, the tiny o-ring at the top of the chimney was a press-fit into the top cap. Later models it was in a slot within the cap, so it would stay there
Wouldn't have any effect on the tip, which is on the other side of the cap.i dont have any other tips at the moment..i ordered a few from discount vapes and one from FT..so when i get those i'll see how things fit..i also ordered another top cap from FT so maybe that will help with the 510's to fit.
i contacted the seller, told him my problem, and he had a few suggestions.
1. lower my coil closer to the base
2. try and use a mech mod (nemesis, stingray, etc) rather than what i am using (mvp 2.0 11 w max) so that essentially it will heat up/cool down the coil more quickly due to the higher amp output (at the moment i cant shell out the cash for a new mod)
3. try and use a lower gauge wire, he suggested 28 gauge, with 3-4 wraps.(i currently only have 32g, which i use twisted, 2 strands, 6 wraps..it lands anywhere between 1.4 to 1.7 or so ohms)
i guess i do have a little wiggle room to lower my coil before it touches the deck..i can also get some 28 gauge kanthal cheap so that's do able..but i can't afford a new mod, so that's out of the question, for now at least.
i contacted the seller, told him my problem, and he had a few suggestions.
1. lower my coil closer to the base
2. try and use a mech mod (nemesis, stingray, etc) rather than what i am using (mvp 2.0 11 w max) so that essentially it will heat up/cool down the coil more quickly due to the higher amp output (at the moment i cant shell out the cash for a new mod)
3. try and use a lower gauge wire, he suggested 28 gauge, with 3-4 wraps.(i currently only have 32g, which i use twisted, 2 strands, 6 wraps..it lands anywhere between 1.4 to 1.7 or so ohms)
i guess i do have a little wiggle room to lower my coil before it touches the deck..i can also get some 28 gauge kanthal cheap so that's do able..but i can't afford a new mod, so that's out of the question, for now at least.
I find on my KFs that putting the coil about 2 mm over the deck works best. Yes, if it's too high, it may transfer more heat to the chimney.
And at this point in your journey, I wouldn't suggest a mech. The only way to control the vape with one is to change the coil value. VV/VW is much simpler to "tune" the power to the flavor and to your tastes. And today's VV/VW devices, when set to your tastes, heat pdq, so that's not really an issue imo. Cool down? Once power is removed, whether mech or adjustable, the mass of metal in the coil (and any crud on it from use) will determine that. Heavier gauge (lower number) has more mass for the same resistance, and will cool slower than thinner wire. I like to use 30 for that reason. (Although 32 works well in Kanger type heads due to the space.)
And at this point in your journey, I wouldn't suggest a mech. The only way to control the vape with one is to change the coil value. VV/VW is much simpler to "tune" the power to the flavor and to your tastes. And today's VV/VW devices, when set to your tastes, heat pdq, so that's not really an issue imo. Cool down? Once power is removed, whether mech or adjustable, the mass of metal in the coil (and any crud on it from use) will determine that. Heavier gauge (lower number) has more mass for the same resistance, and will cool slower than thinner wire. I like to use 30 for that reason. (Although 32 works well in Kanger type heads due to the space.)
i agree its best to stay where i am at at far as powered devices go..while i understand Ohms Law, Watts Law, battery safety, and all else that comes with a circuit (i''ve only got a couple more electives to go to have my associates in electrical engineering, and i only know as much as i've been taught), i am satisfied with what i have right now..but i know that wont last..
..and that's the coils i was building--kanger coils--which is why i have all this 32g..i did however order some 30g that should be here today..(ordered it before my kayfun got here, also Japanese cotton)..so i will probably start messing around with that combo.i will try lowering my coil a bit more and see if that helps.
Thanks everyone for the input.
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