I was coming to see if anyone knew how to change the charging port on these, my blue one is perfect except for the port broke and won't charge anymore, but for 20 bucks, I guess I'll just buy a new one. Other thing is they are pretty durable except the tips that break. I'm currently using a metal one I grabbed from an old joytech one or whatever it was because the two plastic tips that came with my neboxes broke. What do you guys use for tips?
KangerTech NEBOX
- Thread starter Daisychainvaper
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You sure the usb port is bad and not the cable? I always remove batteries to charge them so not having a working usb wouldn't be an issue for me. But I understand some like to charge via the port. They can be replaced but to do so requires buying a replacement usb, dismantling the mod and good soldering skills.
As for the drip tip, having it break when the mod is dropped might be better than if all the force went into the mod/atty. Personally I use silicone drip tips, more because I don't care for hard drip tips than to keep from damaging the mod if dropped- but it's something to consider.
Good luck w/whatever you decide!
As for the drip tip, having it break when the mod is dropped might be better than if all the force went into the mod/atty. Personally I use silicone drip tips, more because I don't care for hard drip tips than to keep from damaging the mod if dropped- but it's something to consider.
Good luck w/whatever you decide!
I just posted one page back, last post on page, a video from a guy who takes his apart to clean it. Video Quality is poor. Link Here: KangerTech NEBOX.
He later put out an updated video in two parts on my request for better quality video but his webcam just totally sucks. Video does show how to disassemble nebox & reassemble without damage & is the only one of its kind out there so kudos to him. Usb is mounted on main board & simply replacing the socket may not fix the issue if it is a problem with supporting hardware on the board.
If you do undertake the repair, I really hope you video document & post the effort here to help others that follow in your footsteps. I have not yet tried disassembly myself but am very interested from a DNA standpoint. Always wanted a DNA75 Nebox.
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No its the port itself, I guess it gets damaged from constant plugging in. For 20 bucks, I'll just pick up another one. Not even worth the hassle for that price. Unfortunately vaping.com doesn't have the green and the ecig-city place charges shipping, anyone know any other place that has green for 20 bucks? Otherwise I'll just get whatever color.
Ecig-city has free shipping over $50 which is better than most. Maybe buy 2 or 3?
Here is a list of their other sale items Hardware Sale
anybody have trouble getting wicking right on the rba head for the nebox?
i find it strange that a rba setup that works fine in a subtank mini will not wick well enough in the nebox (not changing anything, just pulling out of subtank & putting in nebox, using rba head included in kit) probably something to do with amount of juice/pressure of the 10ml vs smaller capacity of the subtank mini...
anyway, i've got it to wick correctly only a couple times now using absolute minimum amount of cotton. (~.5ohm, 28ga/~7wrap, cotton ball, 50/50 juice, 26w ~4v) the wick is just BARELY long enough to touch the sides where the holes are. seems like anything longer or tucked differently dose not seem to wick correctly. plus, i am using the o-ring leak fix, so that may have something to do with it as well as it's not getting any extra juice from around where it meets the chimney. (it leaked like a sieve otherwise)
just wondering if this is common for these as i've had to futz with the wick more than any other rebuildable i've ever had over the years.
and on the opposite end... i've been making vertical coils in my taifuns for a long time & really liked them in those tanks. so i set one up in the rba head. this time i had the opposite result. worked fine in the subtank & was over-wicking in the nebox. (i believe it may have more to do with how it meets the chimney, than the actual wicking, as the one i have the vertical coil in seems to be a hair shorter than the one i have a horizontal coil in (both same style, 2 holes/screw). the vertical coil rba does not squish the o-ring as much as the one with the horizontal coil in it)
sorry for being long winded, but i'd like to hear others ideas/experiences as i am new to this particular device and it vexes me from time to time.
side note: .... admittedly, did not read through whole thread as it's long and started out as a spotting/new device thread... so apologies if it's already been covered.
i did find another thread that was closer to what i wanted to ask, but had already been closed.
nebox help
i did find another thread that was closer to what i wanted to ask, but had already been closed.
nebox help
i find it strange that a rba setup that works fine in a subtank mini will not wick well enough in the nebox (not changing anything, just pulling out of subtank & putting in nebox, using rba head included in kit) probably something to do with amount of juice/pressure of the 10ml vs smaller capacity of the subtank mini...
anyway, i've got it to wick correctly only a couple times now using absolute minimum amount of cotton. (~.5ohm, 28ga/~7wrap, cotton ball, 50/50 juice, 26w ~4v) the wick is just BARELY long enough to touch the sides where the holes are. seems like anything longer or tucked differently dose not seem to wick correctly. plus, i am using the o-ring leak fix, so that may have something to do with it as well as it's not getting any extra juice from around where it meets the chimney. (it leaked like a sieve otherwise)
just wondering if this is common for these as i've had to futz with the wick more than any other rebuildable i've ever had over the years.
and on the opposite end... i've been making vertical coils in my taifuns for a long time & really liked them in those tanks. so i set one up in the rba head. this time i had the opposite result. worked fine in the subtank & was over-wicking in the nebox. (i believe it may have more to do with how it meets the chimney, than the actual wicking, as the one i have the vertical coil in seems to be a hair shorter than the one i have a horizontal coil in (both same style, 2 holes/screw). the vertical coil rba does not squish the o-ring as much as the one with the horizontal coil in it)
sorry for being long winded, but i'd like to hear others ideas/experiences as i am new to this particular device and it vexes me from time to time.
is it just the metal shield that came out (which just puts pressure on the connector so the contacts touch)? if so, should be an easy solder fix if you can follow the video link above & are handy with a soldering iron. or, just simply stuff something thin on the one side as you plug it in so the contacts touch on the connector. only pins 1 & 5 are probably used anyway so the shell/shield really don't do anything other than put pressure on the connector.
a friend of mine just bought a new nebox because of the same issue, plus, the threads on the battery door were just about non existent. had to push the battery door it in so far that it was recessed until it would catch a thread & even then it was only about a 1/4 turn.
1) Thanks for the micro usb pinout. That will come in handy for me in another situation.
2) Have to admit that I tend to use stock coils in Nebox more so than the RBA as I use Nebox under TC and had plenty of nickel coils. I have used the RBA with some Ti builds on a few occasions with very good results though. Seems like you have a lot more experience with the RBA than I do. I assume you are using the Kanger mini RBA Plus with the larger side holes that came with Nebox. Sounds like you are wicking straight out of the coil through the side holes in the chamber with cotton protruding. Think Nebox is a bit tighter than a subtank and any cotton protruding from the holes may choke off the flow of juice.
Any time I used the RBA, I just wicked it with plenty of cotton and long tails as I would with a Kayfun Lite. I'd leave the tails long enough to touch the bottom of the RBA and rise straight up the sleeve to cover the wicking holes. Sure there are a ton of reasons why this is not the proper way, but it is the way I did it, and it worked fine for me. Had nice clean Ti and never a dry hit. Really do need to go back to the RBA, but the stock coils have been working just fine since I set my units up and I've only changed a coil or two since I owned Nebox and a few of mine are still on the original coils. They last forever in TC at 450 - 480 @ 50w as I have been vaping clearer juices for quite some time and they don't gunk up like the Darker Cinnamon Danish used to.
Not really sure but I bought 2 more for the 20 dollars plus some coils and the used the black friday sale. I'm using one of them now. Its working, and usable, but set for 375 and 50 watts like I use on the others, it takes a second to get to temp where the others I hit the button and instantly its there. Like this one, I hit the button, it goes to like 20-25 watts and then continues up after a slight pause. Anyone else have this?
You are describing exactly the way Cupti works. I wonder if Kanger screwed up Nebox firmware some where along the way to make it work like that very disappointing Cupti.
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Tpat591, no problem, they have pinouts for all kinds of stuff.
No, wicks do not protrude through holes. the wick is just barely long enough to reach & cover the holes on the inside of the ring
No, wicks do not protrude through holes. the wick is just barely long enough to reach & cover the holes on the inside of the ring
So of the two neboxes I got from ecig city, one of them has started flashing the battery icon almost all the time when I take a puff, sometimes it works, but most of the time, just flashes, batteries are charged and I tried two different batteries. Put them in the other one they work fine. Plug the thing in and it seems to work fine. Anyone else have this issue?
Have u been using them for a long time? I have been using 2 of them for over a year and now both of them have that flashing issue after recharging--Usually back to normal after shutting down and stating again
contacts look good, I could try the plus contact, the bottom contact looks fine.
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