IPV3 LI Temp control faulty?

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rx8man1987

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Dec 15, 2013
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I just got my first Temp control mod in. It's an IPV3 LI. I watched a few review videos and coil videos before purchasing to make sure I was comfortable with it. Got it yesterday. Tried Building a twisted 28 gauge 14 wrap micro coil. Came out to be .1 ohms. Good enough.. Went to do the wick test (fire with the cotton no juice) The cotton went into flames. I had the temp settings at the lowest possible.. The coil fired up like a regular kanthal coil..This was on a Dark Horse rda

Today, I built Riptrippers 28 gauge 14 wrap standard coil.. It did the same thing.. This time it was on a Magma rda.

Did I get a faulty temp control? It vapes and everything nicely. But I don't think it's working properly on the temp control side of things. I have even used a Subtank Mini OCC nickel coil. Dry hits. It's not shutting the system down..
 

edyle

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I just got my first Temp control mod in. It's an IPV3 LI. I watched a few review videos and coil videos before purchasing to make sure I was comfortable with it. Got it yesterday. Tried Building a twisted 28 gauge 14 wrap micro coil. Came out to be .1 ohms. Good enough.. Went to do the wick test (fire with the cotton no juice) The cotton went into flames. I had the temp settings at the lowest possible.. The coil fired up like a regular kanthal coil..This was on a Dark Horse RDA

Today, I built Riptrippers 28 gauge 14 wrap standard coil.. It did the same thing.. This time it was on a Magma RDA.

Did I get a faulty temp control? It vapes and everything nicely. But I don't think it's working properly on the temp control side of things. I have even used a Subtank Mini OCC nickel coil. Dry hits. It's not shutting the system down..

imo, yes, that is faulty.
 

edyle

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What comes to my mind I remember from awhile ago, there was an issue where a tc mod you 'decide' that you were not using nickel and switch on it's own to wattage mode so it ended up putting far too much power


btw, you haven't stated clearly whether or what ohms your ipv device measured the coils in question as.

If your coil tested as 0.1 on a separate meter, but your ipv thought it was a 1 ohm coil, or even a 0.2 ohm coil, that might be the cause of the problem
 

Cullin Kin

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What comes to my mind I remember from awhile ago, there was an issue where a tc mod you 'decide' that you were not using nickel and switch on it's own to wattage mode so it ended up putting far too much power

Yeah, it sounds to me like it's not even in TC mode. Something weird.
 

rx8man1987

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Dec 15, 2013
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Here's a picture of my screen in joule mode
 

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rx8man1987

Full Member
Dec 15, 2013
57
6
usa
What comes to my mind I remember from awhile ago, there was an issue where a tc mod you 'decide' that you were not using nickel and switch on it's own to wattage mode so it ended up putting far too much power


btw, you haven't stated clearly whether or what ohms your ipv device measured the coils in question as.

If your coil tested as 0.1 on a separate meter, but your ipv thought it was a 1 ohm coil, or even a 0.2 ohm coil, that might be the cause of the problem
Is that something I could control myself? I have never run into that problem with any of my chipped mods.
 

Cullin Kin

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How are you securing the leads? Nickel does not like insecure connections so the post holes (especially the giant ones on the dark horse) are not the best way to secure the leads. You might try wrapping the wire around the screw heads and screwing them down.

Regardless, I don't feel that your mod should be firing at 3.31V unless the wattage was very high. Either that or your mod is not reading the resistance right.
 

rx8man1987

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Dec 15, 2013
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usa
How are you securing the leads? Nickel does not like insecure connections so the post holes (especially the giant ones on the dark horse) are not the best way to secure the leads. You might try wrapping the wire around the screw heads and screwing them down.

Regardless, I don't feel that your mod should be firing at 3.31V unless the wattage was very high. Either that or your mod is not reading the resistance right.

I am screwing them down until the coil doesn't move anymore while I wiggle the legs then give another 1/16 turn if that to be safe. I honestly think that it's malfunctioning as well. I just don't want to create a return thing unless I'm absolutely sure.. I bought it on Ebay which was probably a mistake to begin with but I'm safe there if it's malfunctioning.
 

Cullin Kin

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I am screwing them down until the coil doesn't move anymore while I wiggle the legs then give another 1/16 turn if that to be safe. I honestly think that it's malfunctioning as well. I just don't want to create a return thing unless I'm absolutely sure.. I bought it on Ebay which was probably a mistake to begin with but I'm safe there if it's malfunctioning.

Well yeah, that might be an issue. That isn't the most secure connection, the more surface area you have in contact the better with Nickel. Try wrapping the leads around the screws like you would with a kayfun. Also, turn down the joules to a minimum as well as the temp. 365F isn't the lowest it can go, 212F is. If you have everything turned all the way down, and as secure of a connection as possible and it still does it, then we can call it faulty.
 

rx8man1987

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Dec 15, 2013
57
6
usa
Well yeah, that might be an issue. That isn't the most secure connection, the more surface area you have in contact the better with Nickel. Try wrapping the leads around the screws like you would with a kayfun. Also, turn down the joules to a minimum as well as the temp. 365F isn't the lowest it can go, 212F is. If you have everything turned all the way down, and as secure of a connection as possible and it still does it, then we can call it faulty.
I grabbed my RBA for my subtank and cranked the screws down. The cotton caught fire in the wick test. I may take a trip to a B&M store and see if they can help me a bit before I try and open a case.. Thanks for your help bud. I appreciate it..
 
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