Actually I think it might've been the regular evic vt I'm thinking of that can only do temp. I thought that dna chips were the same way?
IPV D2 announced.
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The Koopor Mini, and the Smok xcube ii as well I think.
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You can adjust the watts on the Evic VT in tc mode, just not below 30w.
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Scratch that you can on dna40. Figured as such since its so high end. Dang I'm thinking about getting a smok x cube. But mostly cuz I want the ability to go up to 160w. If I get something like the tfv4 tank then 75w won't be enough
From what I've read the xcube can be a bit iffy. You need to use the bluetooth app (and have an iphone/android that's new enough to support the latest version of bluetooth) to unlock (by paying for) titanium and stainless steel capability. Seems like you need to do some tweaking to get it working properly. Doesn't sound like the ideal mod for someone new to tc.
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The Koopor has three wattage settings in TC: 60, 50, and 40 watts, set by Norm-Soft-Hard settings.
The Xcube 2 also has something similar that adjusts the wattage.
I'm not new to tc lol. I'm in this thread. I got the ipv d2. Like I said I just wanna get one for the fancy lights and 160w. I guess I would get that or either snow wolf but ive heard bad things about that. J would get ipv 3 li but I want something different that's not p4u. Wanna try new things
Oh, that wasn't particularly directed towards you (though I see how it comes across like that). I have several tc mods, have been using tc pretty much exclusively from April or so, and generally enjoy tweaking, but I wouldn't want to deal with the xcube (based on what I've read in the xcube thread). Seems like a pain to get good tc performance out of it.
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That's true. I guess that counts watt control, kinda.
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Fair well I'll.keep my eye out. I'm gonna stick to regular mode vaping for now. I need to order nichrome here tho. And eventually titanium
Heres another good deal on this for anyone still wanting one. $40
http://www.wakeandvape.com/blog/tiny-titan-small-vape-sale-that-is-giant/
http://www.wakeandvape.com/blog/tiny-titan-small-vape-sale-that-is-giant/
I agree with you. Spaced or not spaced they heat from the middle out. The greatest resistance in a resistor which is what were dealing with is in the middle. Thus the most heat generated will be in the middle wraps. A simple dry burn on any coil will confirm this.
However it's hard for me to get spaced coils to buen evenly which is why I'm gonna buy ti. I'll admit it's cuz I suck at building but so be it.
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Im getting better at it but not 100% successful. Ive been practicing with my kanthal builds and the last few have been ok even a dual coil in my Orchid. Seems like if they are not perfect I have problems, so your not alone
I had a couple OK dual builds in my royal bunter. But I usually do better with single builds lol.
Im getting better at it but not 100% successful. Ive been practicing with my kanthal builds and the last few have been ok even a dual coil in my Orchid. Seems like if they are not perfect I have problems, so your not alone
Try wrapping on a machine screw. Perfectly spaced uniform coils every time.
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That's absolutely true on an absolutely dried coil and with their wraps near enough. But once you space them enough, or if the wick is wet enough (and I should remember you that you vape with enough wetted wicks...), you'll get an evenly distributed heat dissipation.
That's why, at least with nickel, with the highest TCR in play, it is preferable to wrap spaced coils instead microcoils. Even wet and properly fed with not so much current, they are prone to overheat a bit in the middle, because there is less heat dissipation and more heat density if the wraps are not enough spaced, and with Ni-200 any temperature raising automatically adds noticeable resistance and aggravates the issue, and that ruins any consistent and precise temperature estimation based on resistances. Which, if you are sure that the maximum temperature is somewhat related to the mean temperature as it is seen by the mod, and it is not a dangerous one, is not so big problem.
That is how we've been vaping for some time, adjusting wattage (on mechanicals with resistance, on VW keying the proper wattage after some trial and error), and TC just adds the 'I'm detecting a somewhat dried coil, Sir!' warning.....
...not less, not more....
Well, I like it, as it smooths the vape in any atomizer, rendering the same exact vapour stream with the same flavour and throat-hit along almost all the atomizer moisture states, and it warns in the end, just with less vapour. It's a pity that some folks find it damn difficult to adjust and to get proper results, and it appears to be a bit too-technical to get it, because if it were plain-adjustable with some basic rules and just one button it would be the ideal noob-proof vaping technique...
...but it is not, not yet. Maybe some day.
Last night I ventured to resuscitate my Fogger (v2!) and I put a Ni-200 AWG 32 twisted (three wires strongly tightened with a power drill) and wrapped over a 2.5 mm core on it, which barely fits the housing, but at 0,082 ohms if works like a charm at 15W/230ºC -200 ºC on the IPV D2, more on that later-
It is not a sub-ohm RBA, it is from one or two generations before all this craziness about vaping RBA at more than 30W, but it works, once you accept it cannot provide more than 20W, in any circumstances.....
Apropos my last post, is it just me or someone has found that their IPV D2 runs on lower temperature settings on Ni-200?
At first, I thought it was related to poor craftsmanship of coils, after that, about wire thickness. Then I received titanium gr.1 AWG28 and I found that my IPV D2 seemed to ask for higher temperatures than running Ni-200, which were a bit on the low side (sometimes, with thinner wires, as low as 150 ºC).
Then I got an EVIC VTC mini, and the same atomizer with the same setup asked for about 35 - 45 ºC more than the IPV D2 to render the same experience. After upgrading it to the 1.10 version of its firmware, perhaps just 25 - 35 ºC, but the difference is there.
And then I started to calculate apparent TCRs. You know, now both mods (IPV D2 with SX130Hv2.0 and EVIC with 1.10) show the actual resistance when they fire....
... and I found that my IPV D2, with nickel, often uses more than 0,0070 1/ºC -a maximum 0,0062 1/ºC was expected - and the EVIC VTC about 0,0052 1/ºC -and a minimum of 0,0057 1/ºC was expected-
Naturally, that separates both mods from the target, the IPV D2 effectively runs hotter that it has been targeted and the VTC runs colder than it has been targeted. No wonder my experiences! Not to ruin your experience with the IPV D2, but notice that it is the lemon, with Ni-200. With titanium, and comparing with the EVIC VTC, all temperature settings appear to be comparable, once you accept that the same exact setting is a naive intent. But not with Ni-200 on the IPV D2, which is noticeable under the expected temperature setting.
Has anyone found something like this?
At first, I thought it was related to poor craftsmanship of coils, after that, about wire thickness. Then I received titanium gr.1 AWG28 and I found that my IPV D2 seemed to ask for higher temperatures than running Ni-200, which were a bit on the low side (sometimes, with thinner wires, as low as 150 ºC).
Then I got an EVIC VTC mini, and the same atomizer with the same setup asked for about 35 - 45 ºC more than the IPV D2 to render the same experience. After upgrading it to the 1.10 version of its firmware, perhaps just 25 - 35 ºC, but the difference is there.
And then I started to calculate apparent TCRs. You know, now both mods (IPV D2 with SX130Hv2.0 and EVIC with 1.10) show the actual resistance when they fire....
... and I found that my IPV D2, with nickel, often uses more than 0,0070 1/ºC -a maximum 0,0062 1/ºC was expected - and the EVIC VTC about 0,0052 1/ºC -and a minimum of 0,0057 1/ºC was expected-
Naturally, that separates both mods from the target, the IPV D2 effectively runs hotter that it has been targeted and the VTC runs colder than it has been targeted. No wonder my experiences! Not to ruin your experience with the IPV D2, but notice that it is the lemon, with Ni-200. With titanium, and comparing with the EVIC VTC, all temperature settings appear to be comparable, once you accept that the same exact setting is a naive intent. But not with Ni-200 on the IPV D2, which is noticeable under the expected temperature setting.
Has anyone found something like this?
How does the base resistance compare between the IPV D2 and the Evic when using the same atomizer with the same coil?
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