In need some tip fom the elders, going rebuildable with a fogger v4

[jozbaldwin]

Hello guys, so I finally decided to try my luck with a fogger v4, will be my first rebuidable atty, while waiting I thought of ask for some help before messing something up.

So this is what i ordered:
- Fogger v4 (will use it with my provari)
- a1 awg 29 kanthal
- 3mm wicks

Sorry if a mispell something, Im a spanish native speaker, learned english thanks to videogames, lol

First question: more turns mean more ohms right? and being a dual coil I have to split the total ohmage if Im not mistaken. I need to reach at least 1ohm for it to work with the provari, so I am thinking at least 2 coils of 2 ohms each to reach that 1 ohm am I right?

Also, how many aproximate turns for each coil, 6 or more, maybe 6/7 coils?

Can the coils ohm be measure before installing them on the fogger? I can test the final resistance with the provari, but would like to measure each coil before mounting the unit if possible, a friend will teach me how to use a multimeter when i get the order if this is possible.

And finally, is it possible to use a single coil with the fogger v4? Dual coils sure drain the battery, maybe a single coild could be a nice alternative, if this is the case, should I put something on the extra air hole to close it or can i just leave it there.

I would really appreciate any help, thanks and happy vaping.

 

[Tinkiegrrl]

The higher the gauge of kanthal your are using, the thinner it is. The thinner it is, the less wraps you'll need to make to reach your goal for ohms. For dual coils, you are correct about needing to cut the ohms of the individual coils in half. For a Provari though, I do suggest that you aim for higher ohms. 1.3 or over. It may still fire, but you'll be cutting your options down a great deal as far as voltage settings are concerned. Make sure you are using genuine AW IMR button tops. You can get an ohm meter to test your already mounted coils (installed in the atty) before you put in on the Provari. In fact, definitely test them before putting them on the Provari, because the Provari actually fires the coils to test the resistance.

 

[jozbaldwin]

The higher the gauge of kanthal your are using, the thinner it is. The thinner it is, the less wraps you'll need to make to reach your goal for ohms. For dual coils, you are correct about needing to cut the ohms of the individual coils in half. For a Provari though, I do suggest that you aim for higher ohms. 1.3 or over. It may still fire, but you'll be cutting your options down a great deal as far as voltage settings are concerned. Make sure you are using genuine AW IMR button tops. You can get an ohm meter to test your already mounted coils (installed in the atty) before you put in on the Provari. In fact, definitely test them before putting them on the Provari, because the Provari actually fires the coils to test the resistance.

Thanks for the tip, that would be practical, set the atty ready and test it with the multimeter before mounting on the provari, about genuine AW IMR button tops you are talking about the batteries right? Yeah, I only buy my batteries directly from provape.com dont want to take any chances on that.

 

[jozbaldwin]

by the way, best signature ever, joining you guys, lol

 

[vapdivrr]

as tinkiegrll mentioned a resistance of at least 1.3 works better on the provari not 1.0/ with a 1 ohm coil on the provari you will only be able to get 3.4 to 3.5 volts because of the 3.5 amp limit, at that voltage your max wattage will only be about 11 watts. if you increased to 1.3Ω you can also achieve 11 watts but also you have the ability to increase to 14 ish if wanted. i would recommend a coil diameter between 2.0 to 2.5, 3mm seems a little to big imo but this will be part of the testing and experimenting stage. 29g wire is great and the amount of wraps are determined by resistance wanted and coil diameter. imo a good dual micro coil should have at least 7 wraps for each coil but in your case should be a lot more. i use 2 types of resistance meters, one is a multimeter in which i check the coils before even mounting them on the atty, this gets me in the ball park before mounting. after mounting i use one of those checkers that you screw in the atty into the checker, this also works well and gives you a final resistance before mounting. until you heat up the coil and press them together with a tweezers you will not get an accurate reading because before they are fired up they aren't really oxidized and short out slightly. once they glow from the middle out you know they are ready and the resistance is final. i haven't tried a single coil in the fogger but i suppose it could be done if you plug up the channels. one thing for the fogger is to not really stuff the channels, i have found the best way is to insert the cotton thru coil and trim down then install the base of the chimney, after this i wet the wicks and move them over the holes, at this point do not stuff the wicks into the holes but just over them, maybe just insert a few strands into the holes but don't press into very deep, just barely. if you stuff the wicks you will get dry hits.

 

[jozbaldwin]

as tinkiegrll mentioned a resistance of at least 1.3 works better on the provari not 1.0/ with a 1 ohm coil on the provari you will only be able to get 3.4 to 3.5 volts because of the 3.5 amp limit, at that voltage your max wattage will only be about 11 watts. if you increased to 1.3Ω you can also achieve 11 watts but also you have the ability to increase to 14 ish if wanted. i would recommend a coil diameter between 2.0 to 2.5, 3mm seems a little to big imo but this will be part of the testing and experimenting stage. 29g wire is great and the amount of wraps are determined by resistance wanted and coil diameter. imo a good dual micro coil should have at least 7 wraps for each coil but in your case should be a lot more. i use 2 types of resistance meters, one is a multimeter in which i check the coils before even mounting them on the atty, this gets me in the ball park before mounting. after mounting i use one of those checkers that you screw in the atty into the checker, this also works well and gives you a final resistance before mounting. until you heat up the coil and press them together with a tweezers you will not get an accurate reading because before they are fired up they aren't really oxidized and short out slightly. once they glow from the middle out you know they are ready and the resistance is final. i haven't tried a single coil in the fogger but i suppose it could be done if you plug up the channels. one thing for the fogger is to not really stuff the channels, i have found the best way is to insert the cotton thru coil and trim down then install the base of the chimney, after this i wet the wicks and move them over the holes, at this point do not stuff the wicks into the holes but just over them, maybe just insert a few strands into the holes but don't press into very deep, just barely. if you stuff the wicks you will get dry hits.

Thanks for the tips, another question, I read that wraps must not touch each other but saw many pics of them touching I think, do I have to make sure that the wraps are apart or it does not matter.


Enviado desde mi iPhone con Tapacuadril

 

[vapdivrr]

Thanks for the tips, another question, I read that wraps must not touch each other but saw many pics of them touching I think, do I have to make sure that the wraps are apart or it does not matter.


Enviado desde mi iPhone con Tapacuadril

if using cotton then a true micro coil is best, this requires all wraps touching for the most part. if using silica then spaced out wraps are easier to do because in silica you wrap around the wick. in cotton you first make the coil then slide in the cotton. its not that imperative that all wraps are indeed touching but try to get them as close as possible. before micro coils and when most used silica, touching wraps were thought to inhibit shorts, not the case though.

 

[vapdivrr]

i personally do like all wraps touching though sometimes its really hard to achieve this. its not hard to make the coil with all wraps touching but sometimes when mounting the coil they can separate slightly when tightening the screws or by just messing with them, so slight gaps aren't really an issue. as long as when you heat up the coil (before inserting the cotton) the coils light up from the center out, your good to go. the only downfall of having gaps in the coils are the possibility of cotton escaping between the wraps, this kind of makes it easier for those stragglers to singe, but its really no big deal

 

[jozbaldwin]

Just got my fogger, got it up working eeally fast but the numbers seem weird, had to make two 14 round coils for it to work, on my provari te atomizer reads as a 1,4ohm and i can get the voltage up to 4,5 volts or more even, what do you guys think?

 

[JustJohnny]

For my Fogger I am using 9 wraps of 32 gauge kanthal around a 1/16 drill bit which is giving me 1.5 ohms (two 3 ohm coils) for use on my Provari.

 

[Dotrotten]

Also to spare you the wrapping thingy you might want to check some of the pre-made coils or nr-r-nr wires that are dirty cheap from 1.5 to 2.5$ for 100) and takes seconds to get it ready. My 0.02€

 

[Tinkiegrrl]

I don't think no res wire is needed for a Fogger, plus kanthal is even cheaper. Also, the pre wrapped coils are generally not made all that well and are wrapped around silica. I'm currently addicted to cotton and microcoils. I did look into them on Fasttech, but if I were to return to silica, I'd go back to clearos and not build or mount a thing. The taste I'm looking for just isn't there with those types of coils for me unfortunately. I did pick up a KKvapetech coil jig from vapordna, so winding a coil is super easy and fast now. My coils can last for months with regular cleaning and rewicking.

 

[Tbev]

Don't ever buy pre-made coils it's easy just learn to do it, and the fogger v4 is the best thing on the market see the fogger v4! Thread or the atty made right thread for all the info you'll need

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[Tbev]

And you won't need nr leads either but with a coil that big your going to want to trim the tails thinner at the ends so you'll have Good flow.

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