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PKZap27

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The thicker wall for the Polycarbonate tubing the better. It will last a lot longer than the standard thickness. I use 1"OD x 3/4" ID. x 1" L
This tube @ 1" long makes for about a 5ml. tank.

Thanks for the tip Gummy Bear, however the size you indicted here for the Polycarbonate tubing will not fit the MAP tank delrin caps.

The MAP tank Polycarbonate tubing is 3/4" OD x 5/8" ID.

Your suggestion for a thicker tank tube will work on the MAP tank delrin caps if the ID is kept at 5/8", however the tank would stick out further around the edge of the MAP tank delrin caps as the diameter of the MAP tank delrin cap is 3/4" OD.

:2c:
 
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PKZap27

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PKZ...so which one do you like better then?? I know the price on the AvidVapers is a bit too high, but having the "ledge" around the bottom would create a stop for screwing it into the cap. However, it might also prevent height adjustment too as we discussed. Also the thread gauge seems to be the same as 510 thread, only larger diameter? Is that accurate? That would mean it's .5mm and just need the overall diameter then.
I like the adapter without the ledge around it, only because it’s a lot simpler to press it into the delrin cap after filing down the threaded section as discussed earlier.

As far as using a 510~eGo adapter for a threaded application in a delrin cap. I feel it may be best to use the one without the ledge because you could possibly machine the fine threads down little bit and then cut some new, larger threads over them which would be a along a longer portion of the adpter.

More machining for the delrin cap is required if you use the adapter with the ledge on it and would, as you mentioned get in the way of being able to adjust it for the CE2. Also, remember that the 510~eGo adapter from Avid Vaper does not have holes through the center pieces to allow air flow through it. I could possibly switch the internals with the other adapter to get air flow, as of yet I've not tried this.

Another issue with the threaded adapter application is how to screw and unscrew the adapter into the delrin cap, sure you could use a battery to screw it in, however unscrewing it becomes an issue, which could be overcome by a couple of slots in the bottom of the adapter so you could turn it with a screwdriver or two pin holes so you could turn it with a spanner wrench. I believe the adapter is made out of brass and I don’t see the adapter holding up very well, long term with the slots and a screwdriver to remove the adapter. Now that I think about it, I really don’t see the need to remove this adapter once it is placed inside the delrin cap. I’ve always just rinsed the delrin cap with the adapter pressed into really well under hot water. Any thoughts on why you want to make this part removable?

The compensation for the difference in the height of the CE2 is a tough issue. I’ve always just adjusted the drip tip tube in the top cap to compensate for the difference in the height of the CE2. I’m not sure if just simply turning the adapter in and out of the delrin cap to make this adjustment would work best. Think of the other end of the adapter that has the O-ring and CE2 on it that is pressing up against the inside of the delrin cap, would there be threads in this area? Do you know how much the heigth varies as far as minimum and maximum for the regular CE2's?

It’s hard for me to tell exactly if the threads are the same or not. I tried to eyeball the threads by holding up some other 510 male threads against the cone thread on the adapters. If I had to throw a dart I would say they are different, the pitch of cone threads or the cone threads themselve seem to be finer than the standard 510 threading. Again, this is only a guess, and I would have to lean more to the side of them being different rather than come out and just say they are the same without verifying it first.
 
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vaporjoey

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Ok, I guess i'm confused, lol. What is the difference between a mini and a regular map, besides one holding more juice? Are the delrin plugs same size? Is the tubing same diameter just cut shorter? Someone school me please......LOL
I measured the O-Ring for the MAP tank and the size is; AS568A Dash Number 013.

AS568A Dash No. O-Ring Sizing Chart

Measurement are; ID: 7/16" x OD: 9/16" x Width: 1/16"

O-Rings and the Polycarbonate tubing for the MAP tank can both be purchased from McMaster-Carr.

Here is a link which discusses what material and hardness of the O-Ring is best used as applied to the MAP tank and e-cig MODs

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/183049-o-ring-material-e-cig-mod.html


Edit to add:

The bolded Information in the following post pertains to the O-Ring used between the adapter and the CE2 as applied to the GP-SSR.
 

PKZap27

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Ok, I guess i'm confused, lol. What is the difference between a mini and a regular map, besides one holding more juice? Are the delrin plugs same size? Is the tubing same diameter just cut shorter? Someone school me please......LOL

The only difference between the mini and regular MAP tank is the tank tubing length & what kind of CE2 they use.

The mini MAP tank tube is 29mm long and uses a regular steel CE2.

The regular MAP tank tube is 46mm long and uses an XL steel CE2.

I never purchased a mini MAP tank, I just cut a piece of 3/4" OD x 5/8" ID Polycarbonate tubing 29mm long and used it to make a mini MAP tank out of a regular MAP tank that I purchased.
 
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vaporjoey

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Ok, now I see, thanks man.....I just used my first map tank 2 days ago and am AMAZED at this device! I am now on a quest to make my own (minus the turned delrin caps) I noticed my tubing is already hairline cracking, Has anyone thought of having thick glass tubing cut and edges polished? Would that not last forever, if not dropped?
Everything is the same the only difference is the tubing length. The mini MAP tank tube is 29mm long.

The mini MAP tank uses a regular CE2, and the regular MAP tank uses an XL CE2.

Oh yeah, what was the part number for the correct tubing?
 
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PKZap27

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To anyone who is following this thread, I just realized that you would not need to purchase a new piece of polycarbonate tubing to perform this MOD. The regular MAP tank tube is long enough (1-13/16” or 46.0375mm) that you could just cut it down to the required 1-5/8” as discussed in the first post in this thread. I put in a request to a forum moderator to edit my post to reflect this.

I apologize to anyone who has purchased the polycarbonate tank tubing and now feels it was a wasted purchase; however I feel that having the extra polycarbonate tank tubing is a good thing. :D

You could order some clear fittings from the same vendor and make yourself a clear mini marshmallow shooter. :)



I've always thought about making one of these, and if I ever do make one, a clear one would be the way to go. :D
 
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MagnusEunson

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I apologize to anyone who has purchased the polycarbonate tank tubing and now feels it was a wasted purchase; however I feel that having the extra polycarbonate tank tubing is a good thing. :D

You could order some clear fittings from the same vendor and make yourself a clear mini marshmallow shooter. :)

Wow... I heard much the same thing from a Defense contractor years ago at a mixed-party meeting. Except the mistaken order was like $22M worth of stuff. And the marshmallow shooter was something far more, umm, deadly. ;-)

-Magnus
 

MadmanMacguyver

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Cool, I like the way you think.... So thread the ID of the poly and the OD of the delrin and toss a o-ring on the delrin plug inset so it matchs up to the end of the poly. No need for brass then. Or you could use two brass connectors, one set into the poly and one on the ouside dia of the delrin. Hmmmmmm
Dan

PKZ...your brainstorming the 510 connector is pretty much the same as what I've thought through so far. I'm still trying to work through what it would take to build a custom insert for mine. I've also got plenty of delrin and polycarb lying about i'm thinking seriously about creating a threaded post insert similar to how Imeo does his AFS stuff. Would require an inner and outer brass tube and delrin center all threaded and probably o-ring sealed somehow. I'm also planning to tap and thread my own delrin/poly tank so I don't have to tear up my hands trying to pry it apart. I want a final tank that can be completely threaded for cleaning, inserting, etc. I have a dream..anyway...LOL!

and here I've been thinking the same thing seeing all these cracked tanks...my idea though was press or thread a piece of SS tubing into the poly tubing for reinforcement with threads on the inner diameter of the ss tubing as well and that would screw onto the delrin w an equivalent piece of ss tubing on it...Yea I know overcomplicating things but the idea being it wont subject a softer/more brittle material to stresses to break it down...voila long term service life...
 

wolflrv

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Yep...good idea...Gummy Bear did that with some faucet fittings...not sure where that info is...but I know I saw pics of it..somewhere. My goal is to not have to pry the delrin caps off everytime with a screwdriver and to make it easier to insert a new CE2 when needed. Otherwise I'm happy. I personally don't want to use the SS ..just cause I prefer the non-metallic taste.
 

jifjifjif

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Thank you, PKZap27 for all of this information and for assisting me with my MAP tank difficulties. I was so excited to try it and really did not know the proper way to install a new ce2 and get it running. This thread as well as your instantaneous reply to my cry for help were absolutely what I needed to get things right. It is because of individuals like you that I am a supporting member of ECF.

MANY THANKS MY FRIEND. You really know what you're talking about!
 

stealthspy589

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Cough Cough, not without modifications....
Like all 510 connectors there are air holes in the neck above the threads that this connector/extension does not appear to have. A simple .5mm drill can solve this problem. That is why I have 4ft of 7/8"OD delrin, and 8ft of 3/4"ID x 7/8"OD Polycarbonate coming. I just have to warm up the metal lathe. :) And yes I will be pressing in the 510 extenders from madvapes after they are modified; I like a flush mod, not one that stands off my PV.

So never say can't teehee.... always say well it might be possible, but you’ll have to overcome _______

Not flaming just trying to provide a possible way to use them.
Hope I didn’t step on toes, I think a 510 to 510 is way better than having to use adapters to convert it back from a 901 to a 510.

Just my 2 cents,
Dan
Any chance you get give me the part number you used as the o ring? The McMaster-Carr O'ring chart confuses the hell out of me
 

PKZap27

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Scubabatdan

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Any chance you get give me the part number you used as the o ring? The McMaster-Carr O'ring chart confuses the hell out of me

Well the problem is I am using 7/8"OD x 3/4"ID poly tubing so the o-rings I am using are 9555K17, if your ID is 5/8" then you will want the 9555K15, this is assuming that it uses 1/16" o-rings. However if the ID of the map is 9/16" then go with the ones PKZap recommended or the 9555K14 Buna-N (FDA Complient). I do not have this setup so I can tell you the exact ones. BTW you will notice that these are not Viton, these are FDA Compliant Buna-N o-rings and the same hardness as the vitons.
Hope this helps,
Dan
 
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VapeSoniq

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WOW! I just found my "Ridgid Plastic Pipe Cutter" and it works great at cutting the Polycarbonate tubing!

It makes a nice clean cut!

Just wanted to share.

im hesitant to use a tool like this considering im on my second cracked tube right now. i suspect its from my wintergreen flavoring but im not sure. does anyone have issues with menthol flavoring?
 

Scubabatdan

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im hesitant to use a tool like this considering im on my second cracked tube right now. i suspect its from my wintergreen flavoring but im not sure. does anyone have issues with menthol flavoring?

If it is cracking it is probably acrylic and not polycarbonate (lexan). I would order some poly tubing and just cut a new piece, and replace the one you have.
Dan
 
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