How to avoid spit-back on "higher" wattage

[EIHYPI]

I've changed a little in the way I vape from being a tootle puffer to vaping on higher wattage too. I picked up the goon 1.5 together with some great fused clapton coils a week ago. What I can't figure out is how to avoid spit-back I am getting. I'm vaping 110W on the Revenger using 2 Samsung 25R batteries. I was thinking that if the coils were closer to the end (longer leads) the spit-back won't be able to come out of the top.

I mean is this the nature of what people who use higher wattage deal with? I'm not obsessed with vaping this way, just wanted to experience this style of vaping. I would appreciate any tips or tricks on how to avoid spit-back. Thank you in advance.

 

[Letitia]

Might not have enough cotton or over dripping. I have a goon clone with a pair of ss staggered fc clapton's and have no issues.

 

[jfcooley]

I can't say I've had any spitback on my clone or Dead Rabbit. I don't get anywhere near 100w though. I'm between 40-60 watts.

Are you over dripping? Only spit I've gotten on my sqonk is when I accidentally go overboard on the juice.

 

[EIHYPI]

Yeah I could be over dripping. When I vape my other rda's on lower wattages I like to fill up the juice well with juice. I guess I can't do that with my goon.

 

[Letitia]

@jfcooley Love the new avatar.

 

[Mr. Relentless]

 

[Mr. Relentless]

I vape around 100 so mines like bacon grease all the time.

 

[ScottP]

View attachment 695343

I have heard good and bad about those. I have heard they work to some degree but they also reduce airflow to a degree as well. I have also heard they can add some turbulence. I guess they key would be to get one large enough to still give the right airflow.

 

[Cosmic_Glaze]

Try looking up "Scottish wicking method" You tube. I wick my DL RTAs/RDAs that way. Much different than I wick my MTL RTAs. You need to get the cotton inside the coil pretty firm to avoid spit back from larger coils (Aliens/Claptons) of course it is always the fine line of too much or too little. Hope that method helps.

 

[Letitia]

I always use scottish roll when using KGD. Effective and efficient wicking method.

 

[Ben85]

Try repositioning the coil, packing in more wick, and dripping less.

 

[MortenOen]

Spit back is the result of too hot coils. The coils get hot if the air flow around the coils is not good enough, or the coils simply are too massive to cool down with air/ juice. Make sure the coils are on a direct line between air holes and the drip tip. If that does not work, use simpler coils or larger RDA.

 

[Mr. Relentless]

 

[Mr. Relentless]

I pulse the fire button a little let it warm up a little slower if it's an issue.

 

[Letitia]

^^^
Very cool.

 

[Mr. Relentless]

I also saw metal screens in drip tips. I never used but it works for my bacon.

 

[DaveP]

10W vaper here. Spitback can destroy a wick. All those little explosions will create tufts of cotton that stick out all over. With a new or newly dry burned coil I usually turn down the wattage at first until popping stops, then raise the wattage as the wick and coil age.

I find wattage mode to be better on a new wick. In TC the mod is jacking the voltage up and down to maintain temps. Once it breaks in and settles down, then TC works more smoothly. As MortenOen said, the more it boils, the more it spits. Turn it down until the spitting stops and work your way back up. If you have to, start the draw right before you hit the fire button.

 

[MrStik]

More cotton inside the coil. These clapton style coils saturate with juice and it seems that it likes to pop. If you underwick, then you can get a lot of juice on the coil itself and cause the spitback. Generally on tanks, it can flood a bit, but on drippers it will just oversaturate the coil.

On my setups, I will wick tighter than normal, not so much that will will pull on the coil and deform it, but wick it with a bit of resistance. This next step is not really necessary, but I thin out the tails so that it will keep up with the wicking on my setups. I am running some sort of fused clapton right now and with my way of wicking, I am getting rapid tiny crackles when I fire and that is what I am looking for. It took me a few tries to get it this way.

 

[DaveP]

More cotton inside the coil. These clapton style coils saturate with juice and it seems that it likes to pop. If you underwick, then you can get a lot of juice on the coil itself and cause the spitback. Generally on tanks, it can flood a bit, but on drippers it will just oversaturate the coil.

On my setups, I will wick tighter than normal, not so much that will will pull on the coil and deform it, but wick it with a bit of resistance. This next step is not really necessary, but I thin out the tails so that it will keep up with the wicking on my setups. I am running some sort of fused clapton right now and with my way of wicking, I am getting rapid tiny crackles when I fire and that is what I am looking for. It took me a few tries to get it this way.

Same here. I cut a strip of Koh Gen Do and pull away the outer "ironed" layers. Then, I roll it between my fingers to compress it slightly and form it into a round shape. I have to wet my fingers and twist the end to make it fit into the coil and then I have to twist the wick to I get it through the coil without bending the coil legs. The result is a snug fit inside the coil with a little cotton sitting higher on each outside end of the coil.

Loose wick causes hot spots in the coil.

 

[tj99959]

Funny how the more things change ... the more they stay the same.

Hanna (HH-357 fame) had the perfect solution for spit back way back when.
Just pull the "bridge" out of an old 510 atomizer and stick it up inside the drip tip from the bottom.
Probably wouldn't work well with big bore tips, but a "spark arrester" of some sort is still the answer to the problem.