high ohm single coils

[PaulBHC]

4 volts @ 2 ohms will burn 4x4/2 = 8 watts.
If you use a 2 ohm dual coil you'll still burn 8 watts but it would be 4 watts per coil and they'd be cooler that the single coil.
If you use a 1 ohm dual coil (2 2 ohm coils in parellel) you'd burn 16 watts, and fog twice as fast.

Thanks for this.

I have an MVP, VV3, ego twist and the Slip. I run the first two at 7 watts normally with either Aspire BDCs or cheap single BCCs. The BDCs come with 1.8 and I recoil them as singles around 2 ohms. The BCCs come at 2 and I recoil them a little higher for use with the Slip.
They all make vape and that is the idea. Cool or hot doesn't matter to me. I have an i30 that I use on occasion and have to crank up to 8-9w to get flavor.

 

[JeremyR]

All the talk here is completely relative to the apv your using(amp limit) and the gauge of wire.. Mechs and regulated/vv are completely Different animals

This was exactly what I've been trying to wrap my head around as well. I'm looking at getting a nice vv/vw mod that will run the right combo of watts/ amps that'll run an 18650 2000mAh the longest between recharges with decent vapor production/taste. I just couldn't figure out which way to go to get there.

Longest life between charges for you would be an apv that can run stacked 18350s, do it safely, run a 2.8-3 ohm coil. This will last you 2-3 times longer than a single 18650 in the same setup. With my vape style for a full day I would use 2-3 18650 2000mah or one set of stacked 18350s in a regulated mod like zmax. I got 15 hours on one charge in that configuration, would have been 3 18650s

When running lower ohms like 1.5 you can gain 3- 4 times the battery life with sacked compared to single 18650. For one with stacked batteries you have 2 volts of run time, instead of 1v. Also they can handle more amps so less strain on battery. (Zmax 2.5amps single, 4 amps stacked) Please review my power blog and stacked blog. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ng-info-stacked-batteries-regulated-mods.html

(Only run a lifetime matched set, tested to be within .01-.02.. in an apv designed for it, NOT in an unprotected MECH)

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@ocelot
Of course your right ocelot, same watts less amp draw on battery longer life.
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personally i don't see going above 2 Ω for any reason whatsoever.

Your probably a mech user..
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@ others
In most cases of vv chips... going below 2.4 ohms nets you NO gain in actual watt power only Loss. You actually get less watts and shorter battery life!

Ie - general vv 2.5 amp limit with one battery. (Only 4-5 amps with stacked)

1.5 ohm you max out at 9 watts, 3.7v, 2.5 amp draw. (That's it, amp limited)
3.0 ohm you max at 12 watts, 6v, 2amp draw on battery.
~2.4 ohm is the sweet spot, 15watts, 6v, 2.5 amp draw

I generally find the 3 ohm will get me almost Double battery life compared to a 1.5ohm and I get 3 More watts to boot.

In a zmax stacked batteries get you a 4amp limit and running a 1.5 ohm coil you can really get
15w and when I use 1.5 in single and stacked mode the stacked mode gets me
Approximately 3-4 times the battery life.

Vape on!!

 

[sneakerpimp]

Your probably a mech user..

mechs, ego's and vv/vw's. most of my coils are 1.8~2.0Ω to make changing toppers easier. on cartotanks i do 2Ω at 4.2v but i recently discovered cooler vaping 2Ω at 3.2v on a dripper.. awesome.

 

[edyle]

Actually I have to make a correction.

The higher ohm coils give you more efficiency in the use of power, so
For the same watts
the higher ohm coil should vaporize more liquid than the lower ohm coil.
hence a longer battery life.

Can't go back and edit this: I was thinking of the final watts burnt up by the battery itself; but anyway it's a useless and unhelpfull statement.

Correction: The higher ohm coil gives you more efficient power delivery to the coil - on a mech.

I don't think it's going to apply to an apv with a voltage regulaor.

--
edit: changed 'kick' to 'voltage regulator'

 

[AndriaD]

Correction: The higher ohm coil gives you more efficient power delivery to the coil - on a mech.

I don't think it's going to apply to an apv with a kick.

You've used that phrase, "APV with a kick" several times, but, you only use a kick on a mech, don't you? An APV generally has variable whatsits, either vv or both vv/vw -- so no need for a kick.

But I still want the most efficient use, since my new APV uses replaceable batteries.

Andria

 

[edyle]

You've used that phrase, "APV with a kick" several times, but, you only use a kick on a mech, don't you? An APV generally has variable whatsits, either vv or both vv/vw -- so no need for a kick.

But I still want the most efficient use, since my new APV uses replaceable batteries.

Andria

I assume the voltage regulation electronics inside a VV VW apv is also called a kick ? It's not removeable but I assume its called a kick

 

[AndriaD]

I assume the voltage regulation electronics inside a VV VW apv is also called a kick ? It's not removeable but I assume its called a kick

I don't think I've ever heard it called that; I thought a kick was a "doohickey" to make mechs variable. I just figured that "APV" implied that there was some advanced electronics going on. When I see "kick," then I think of the "doohickey" you screw onto a mech to make it do more (or less, or the case may be!).

Be that as it may... battery efficiency is important in any device, regardless of electronics or lack thereof -- especially the kind with removeable batteries. With my iTaste vv3, I don't worry about battery life, because I run it on pass-thru 90% of the time, and I have two of them, so if one gets a bit low, I can always change. But with removeable batteries, especially the 18350s, it's more of a thing; no pass-thru, you have to actually rotate batteries from charger to mod and vice-versa. I got the Sigelei telescoping so that at home, I can use smaller batteries, but for day-trips, I can use the long ones, or 2 350's, and a big tank, and not need so much paraphernalia, so battery life really is a big deal; just having advanced electronics isn't going to make battery life any longer, which is why I wanted to get educated on the best kind of coils to use with it -- clearly, high-ohm is better for saving batteries!

Andria

 

[Ryedan]

Voltage x voltage ÷ resistance (ohms) = power (watts)

4.5v²/2.2Ω = 9.2w

Voltage ÷ resistance (ohms) = I (current/amps)

4.5v/2.2Ω = 2.05 amps

Yes, as far as it goes Ocelot. But, your battery does not see a 2.05A draw because it does not put out 4.5V. The 4.5V is created by the circuitry in the PV by using more battery amps to create more PV voltage. However the power the battery puts out is the same as the power the PV puts out.

So both the PV and the battery are putting out 9.2 watts and we know the battery averages 3.7V.

Watts ÷ volts = amps

9.2 ÷ 3.7 = 2.49

The battery at 3.7V is putting out 2.49A to create 4.5V and 9.2 watts from the PV. There will be power loss because the regulator is not 100% efficient and different regulators have different efficiencies but I think that's a different discussion

3.7v²/1.5Ω = 9.1w

3.7v/1.5Ω = 2.47 amps

Right, the battery draw is the same as long as the power used is the same. The 0.02A difference is from rounding errors.

You might still get a bit better battery life form higher resistance coils, but that's due to the efficiency of the voltage regulator at different voltage or power settings.

Rader2146 did a very good write up on all this and covered pretty much all of it. He explains it better than I did here too

 

[Ryedan]

Please look at my knowledge is power blog. It's mostly technical tidbits with links to discussions. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/jeremyr/5666-knowledge-literally-power-vapers.html

I only read the first 3 posts in your blog Jeremy, but I think you're missing part of the equation WRT battery life and coil resistance. Rader2146's write up on it is a very good explanation of how battery life works with regard to resistance.

Vape on

 

[Dampmaskin]

I assume the voltage regulation electronics inside a VV VW apv is also called a kick ? It's not removeable but I assume its called a kick

The Kick is the name of this particular product from Evolv. There are at least two different versions, and lots of clones, but basically this is what it looks like.

Generic voltage regulation electronics are called just voltage regulation circuits. Or voltage regulators. If you want to be more specific you can call them step-up and/or step-down converters, buck circuits, boost circuits or buck-boost converters, and probably lots of other different names, but the name (or the genericised trademark) "kick" normally refers to this specific type of product, AFAIU.

 

[JeremyR]

I only read the first 3 posts in your blog Jeremy, but I think you're missing part of the equation WRT battery life and coil resistance. Rader2146's write up on it is a very good explanation of how battery life works with regard to resistance.

Vape on

Thanks, I'm reviewing his blog since your last post, and agree with chip efficiency concept, but it doesn't change the fact that I get much longer battery life on the zmax chip with high ohm... 1.5 ohm last me 3-4hrs, 3ohm lasts me 6-8 hours or more both at The same Wattage, with similar vapes. A 3ohm on a mech will last twice as long as a 1.5.(of course not a similar vape)

At any rate I appreciate you looking out, I will talk to rader as this isn't the place to debate it. (Chip efficiency is the only other part of the equation and it is tied to amp limit which is tied to resistance..)
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@
OP
you want to use the gauge that gives you preferred ohms at 8-12 wraps @ 1/16. Doesn't matter how long a nano is, it's the mass in relation to the ohms and power. 28 will heat incredibly slow at 3.5-4ohms (unless maybe you could hit it with 12v) 32 heats fast at 3-3.5, and is fairly durable, you won't just pop the coil with too much power. 34 heats faster because it's less mass more resistance and would be better at 3.5-4.5, but its a bare to work with and it can pop. 36 is good to 5 but just pops so easily and is so tiny.

 

[AndriaD]

you want to use the gauge that gives you preferred ohms at 8-12 wraps. Doesn't matter how long a nano is, it's the mass in relation to the ohms and power. 28 will heat incredibly slow at 3.5-4ohms (unless maybe you could hit it with 12v) 32 heats fast at 3-3.5, and is fairly durable, you won't just pop the coil with too much power. 34 heats faster because it's less mass more resistance and would be better at 3.5-4.5, but its a bare to work with and it can pop really easily.

Outstanding; a friend is PIFing me a few feet of some 32ga, so I can get higher Ωs in my coils. That Hypertank2 I just got uses the same coils as my Mini PT II, which seems so weird, but handy; I know those are just as small as the T3S coils, if not smaller, so that 32ga will work much better for those than that 30ga I bought. I should try to trade that to someone.

I meant to tell you, when I ordered my batteries the other night, I got a pair of 18650s and a pair of 18350s, both flat top; when I get another pair of 350's for stacking, I'll get the button tops, so I can very easily tell them apart, and keep them apart. Went to Lowes and got that Noalox, so I can get the new Sig all fixed up by the time the batteries get here (both have shipped, won't be here till prob Friday). It's kinda like having a present you know about but can't open yet.

Andria