Geekvape Griffin 25 RTA

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Frocket

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Alrighty need some help. Running single coil 24 g ss twisted with 32 guage kanthal wicked with kjd. About 6 wraps coming out at .39 ohm.

First wick went heavy and rested in top of juice channel. Burnt hit at 35 watts.

Second wick thinner and resting in juice channel. Lost half the juice. Just leaked out after hitting well at 35 watts.

Third wick thinner but pulled some through so it peaked out below the ring. Burnt hit at 35.

What's next?


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It takes some experimentation, and it's more of an art form than a science. I'm still dialing in wicking; haven't quite perfected the technique. I vape primarily high VG liquids, and trim wicks so they just barely tuck into the juice ring, and no cotton extends past the ring. I also thin them a bit. That's with 3mm ID coils.

For me, spaced 24ga nichrome coils around 0.2-0.25 ohms run well, at 58-64 watts, depending on liquid.

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Bakseated1

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Experiencing some seeping of juice from around the juice control ring. Not coming out of the hole but when I touch the ring little droplets end up on my finger from around the crease above and below the ring.

Anyone have any ideas? Am I really going to have to do surgery after a week and replace the oring inside the deck?

I took apart my clone base so I know how to do it but it's not the easiest thing to get apart or back together.

Is it just condensation or is the oring bad in there?


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SammyS

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It takes some experimentation, and it's more of an art form than a science. I'm still dialing in wicking; haven't quite perfected the technique. I vape primarily high VG liquids, and trim wicks so they just barely tuck into the juice ring, and no cotton extends past the ring. I also thin them a bit. That's with 3mm ID coils.
I personally follow the same rules as above and it wicks great 75vg or 50/50. No leaking and dense clouds. No dry hits, but then again im not cranking the wattage 40-50 with a single clapton coil. around 5V
 

srg2692

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Just got one today. Loving it. I just got into building and jumped straight into the 30mm VCMT. Awesome tank once you get the hang of it, but there are a few things about it that annoy the hell out of me so I began searching for an everyday driver.

This thing is a dream after the nightmare I had getting the VCMT figured out. I put in a set of dual fused claptons, 24g nichrome with 32g kanthal 4mm ID 4 wraps, and it's performing incredibly with the first wicking. I had to wick that **** VCMT a dozen times to get it just right. From the external juice flow control to the design of the AFC, to the ability to access the build deck without tearing the whole freaking thing apart, basically everything about this bad boy is an improvement over what I'm used to.
 

vapeNoob4

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What should I be turning to operate the juice control?
If you grasp the glass tank and then twist it that will open or close the fluid channel.

First wick went heavy and rested in top of juice channel. Burnt hit at 35 watts. Second wick thinner and resting in juice channel. Lost half the juice. Just leaked out after hitting well at 35 watts. Third wick thinner but pulled some through so it peaked out below the ring. Burnt hit at 35. What's next?
I waited 20 minutes, which is my regular choice, to let the liquid hit the wick and saturate before my first vape from the tank.

Experiencing some seeping of juice from around the juice control ring. Not coming out of the hole but when I touch the ring little droplets end up on my finger from around the crease above and below the ring. Anyone have any ideas?
Mine does that as well. The way the juice flow control works it actually will unscrew the tank portion from the build and airflow control section. There is a o-ring in place that seals the connection from leakage, but my experience with this unit is that it will leak fairly badly if the flow channels are left open when not using the vape. I put cotton into the flow channels about to the point where the deck ring hits the lower channel. Any extra juice that's introduced into the deck from the wick that isn't held by the wick will drip down the airflow holes in the deck to the airflow control ring and then seep out of there onto your mod.

I've solved the wicking and drip issue by simply closing off the juice channels when not in use and then opening the channels when I'm vaping on the unit. I've had zero leaks since then.
 
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Bakseated1

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I have always closed the juice control when not in use. Paranoia of it leaking. So every time I open and close the juice control I end up touching the air control ring and out comes the seeping juice.

If this is normal then there is some sort of design flaw. My clone 22 mm griff doesn't do this at all.

I really think there may be an issue inside the deck allowing juice in.

Now to contemplate taking it apart or contacting the vendor.


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vapeNoob4

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So every time I open and close the juice control I end up touching the air control ring and out comes the seeping juice.

Watch this video and then fast forward to 7:25 and you'll see how it screws together. There's basically a single o-ring between the tank section and the deck assembly. When you turn the tank to open or close the juice channel you're actually unscrewing the deck from the tank.

 
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Bakseated1

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I feel you. But my juice is showing up below the bottom knuckling. Also I tighten it all the way down then only move back and forth at that point to ensure I don't unscrew the tank section. I would think if the juice were coming from that oring at the top of the base it would come from above the knurling.

It seems like the juice is showing up from behind the air control rings. Like there is an oring inside the deck that's not working.


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Bakseated1

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9a00221a28258bbf2ae0e35c31263bff.jpg


See how it's in the ring. It comes out when I touch the ring.


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hmimilenium

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Shawn Hoefer

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See how it's in the ring. It comes out when I touch the ring.


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Ha... seems I've been remiss in watching and responding to this thread. Sorry...

What e-liquid are you vaping? What resistance and wattage? I ask because I feel like it's only normal to see a bit of seepage being caused by condensation.

Are you getting e-liquid out of the airholes themselves? If so, that's a wicking issue...
 

Bakseated1

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I typically vape nicoticket ranging from 50-50 to 60-40 pg - vg. Usually ss at .3 or so ohms and between 20-35 watts depending on if I am temp control or not.

Nothing out of the air holes just coming in from behind the ring.

Can someone explain how I am getting condensation from a hole where I am sucking in air. Condensation in the drip tip makes sense to me because that is where the vapor exits. But having it where I am sucking in air doesn't make much sense to me. No other tank I have ever had did that.


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Frocket

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I have the same issue with the Griffin 25, and to a lesser extent with the Griffin. Likewise with the Billow V3 and Billow V3 Plus. All four have the same general construction, with the build deck press-fitted into the base.

My leaking is not coming from the air holes on the deck, as far as I can tell, and it's unlikely to be condensation given the amount of seepage I get. I could be wrong, but I don't believe it's caused by condensation.

Ditto on leaking out of the tank itself, because of bad o-rings or a poor fit. I don't think that's the cause.

The only thing I can think it's that it's caused by the nature of the tank's construction. The base isn't all one piece. There's a slight gap (very small) between the build deck and the outer section that the tank screws on to. I'm pretty sure that's the source of the leak, but haven't been able to get the base apart to tell for sure.

BOOM!
 

Frocket

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Just threw a build on my Griffin, which hasn't seen much rotation compared to the Billow V3. Twisted 26ga nichrome @ 0.22 ohms. Threw in some unflavored 75% VG to see how twisted coils would do; I've been stuck on spaced 24ga nichrome for a while and wanted something different.

At 65w, it's performing beautifully. Thick, sweet and dense. I honestly see no reason to add any flavor. Good thing juice is cheap, cause this build is gonna rip through it quick.

BOOM!
 

bongobreak

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Just thought I'd chime in on this topic - I've had both Griffin's (22 & 25) for several months now, and like others I've had seeping from the 25 whereas the 22 is bone dry!
I even did a side-by-side test with identical builds (32g/26g kanthal claptons - 7 wraps both sides - 0.46 ohms) same wicking, same juice on the same mod, and sure enough the 25 seeped and the 22 did not!

It has me stumped, I really like it otherwise, but it won't fit inside my new Disguiser mod (arrived today) so maybe I'll shelve it til I forget about the problem - got a really bad case of shinyitis coming on....mmm Aromamizer Supreme....shiny!!

**edit**: oh, perhaps it's worth a mention, my 25 is stainless finish, my 22 is black - maybe it's the paint/anodised/powder coating or whatever that 'tightens' the seals....maybe....just a thought!
 
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Animus

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I have the same issue with the Griffin 25, and to a lesser extent with the Griffin. Likewise with the Billow V3 and Billow V3 Plus. All four have the same general construction, with the build deck press-fitted into the base.

My leaking is not coming from the air holes on the deck, as far as I can tell, and it's unlikely to be condensation given the amount of seepage I get. I could be wrong, but I don't believe it's caused by condensation.

Ditto on leaking out of the tank itself, because of bad o-rings or a poor fit. I don't think that's the cause.

The only thing I can think it's that it's caused by the nature of the tank's construction. The base isn't all one piece. There's a slight gap (very small) between the build deck and the outer section that the tank screws on to. I'm pretty sure that's the source of the leak, but haven't been able to get the base apart to tell for sure.

BOOM!


Agreed. This style of tank is just prone to leaking. I've had about 5 Griffins and 2 Gemini's and all of them leaked to varying amounts, some less some more.
 
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