First Mech Mod!!!!

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Star Platinum

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Nov 14, 2018
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Hello guys/gals
I just recently got my first mech mod (Limitless Sleeve V2). On my regulated mod I usually vape at .20ohms. After a ton of research, studying of ohms law and battery safety, I've decided to go with the INR20700A battery for this build. My question is.....as a new mech mod user, what do you guys think of this build?
 

Shawn Hoefer

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Hello guys/gals
I just recently got my first mech mod (Limitless Sleeve V2). On my regulated mod I usually vape at .20ohms. After a ton of research, studying of ohms law and battery safety, I've decided to go with the INR20700A battery for this build. My question is.....as a new mech mod user, what do you guys think of this build?
The 20700A has a 30 Amp CDR rating. Ohm's Law lets us figure that a 0.2Ω build will pull 21 Amps off of a 4.2V cell at full charge. You're well within the CDR with some overhead left.

Do not let my words satisfy you. Learn Ohm's law and run the numbers yourself. Know your mod, your battery, and your build.
 

Star Platinum

New Member
Nov 14, 2018
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The 20700A has a 30 Amp CDR rating. Ohm's Law lets us figure that a 0.2Ω build will pull 21 Amps off of a 4.2V cell at full charge. You're well within the CDR with some overhead left.

Do not let my words satisfy you. Learn Ohm's law and run the numbers yourself. Know your mod, your battery, and your build.
Thanks for your response. A I've studied ohms law and looked through battery mooch's charts and I think I've made my decision with your help
 
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MacTechVpr

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Hello guys/gals
I just recently got my first mech mod (Limitless Sleeve V2). On my regulated mod I usually vape at .20ohms. After a ton of research, studying of ohms law and battery safety, I've decided to go with the INR20700A battery for this build. My question is.....as a new mech mod user, what do you guys think of this build?

Congrats. I love my LMC collection, all authentic. Really enjoy all my variables but mech's really let a vape shine in all its subtle variations. If I can be of any help showing you how to get to a dynamite reliable baseline nudge me.


Best of luck. :)

 

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Nov 14, 2018
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Baditude

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Hello guys/gals
I just recently got my first mech mod (Limitless Sleeve V2). On my regulated mod I usually vape at .20ohms. After a ton of research, studying of ohms law and battery safety, I've decided to go with the INR20700A battery for this build. My question is.....as a new mech mod user, what do you guys think of this build?

The 20700A has a 30 Amp CDR rating. Ohm's Law lets us figure that a 0.2Ω build will pull 21 Amps off of a 4.2V cell at full charge. You're well within the CDR with some overhead left.

Do not let my words satisfy you. Learn Ohm's law and run the numbers yourself. Know your mod, your battery, and your build.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
 
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MacTechVpr

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Those look great!!! What resistance are those coming in at?

Make them anywhere from just <.2 and up to 26AWG. Always try to leave about a min of 20% headroom in the batt. But these are s t r a i n wound and such tensioned Kanthal closed or contact coils run very on spec, efficient. That is to say, cooler. An optimum of power is delivered to vaporization. It's not that this is coming from the ether, it's that a lot of waste comes from inefficient contact (to wick and wire-to-wire). If you read some of my stuff on strain and symmetry I think this will help.

Next comes…how do we get there? Two ways: hand and drill winding, once you gain some experience just how much strain is needed for a given gauge. Strain in the end is stretching not much is needed but it's more than just pulling on the wire and must be consistent. Then you see a behavior quite the opposite of what most folks believe is optimal — they do not fire inside out! They mostly fire end-to-end and it does not require compression (squeezing) to get there. The deficit of forcing wire together is that they tend to return to their original unforced state (like coiler winds). A tensioned microcoil tends to constantly pull in after heating to it's natural cool state or the symmetry originally achieved when it was strain wound.

The take away? More actual vaporization at whatever res you're winding. Coils last much longer. The symmetry most often surviving the life of the created ceramic alumina layer created electrically pulsing these vs. turned or formed coils. The effect is what appears to be a cooler output at the same mech res. Which is to say, more effective vaporization. A side advantage is less battery stress/life as you can get an often better result at a higher res. Or, drop it on a variable and get very impressive vapor density for even less wattage.

Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

Start with a straight wire 23 AWG at about .25-.27Ω (18650) and you'll see. The parallels are for more contact surface area for the wire mass (max output).

Remember you would be building a higher vapor density. You can take this greater production and amplify volume by adding air flow at atomizer (inlet) or through the DT and draw used. Best of all worlds really.

LMK if I can help.

Good luck. :)

 

MacTechVpr

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Those look great!!! What resistance are those coming in at?

Make them anywhere from just <.2 and up to 26AWG. Always try to leave about a min of 20% headroom in the batt. But these are s t r a i n wound and such tensioned Kanthal closed or contact coils run very on spec, efficient. That is to say, cooler. An optimum of power is delivered to vaporization. It's not that this is coming from the ether, it's that a lot of waste comes from inefficient contact (to wick and wire-to-wire). If you read some of my stuff on strain and symmetry I think this will help.

Next comes…how do we get there? Two ways: hand and drill winding, once you gain some experience just how much strain is needed for a given gauge. Strain in the end is stretching not much is needed but it's more than just pulling on the wire and must be consistent. Then you see a behavior quite the opposite of what most folks believe is optimal — they do not fire inside out! They mostly fire end-to-end and it does not require compression (squeezing) to get there. The deficit of forcing wire together is that they tend to return to their original unforced state (like coiler winds). A tensioned microcoil tends to constantly pull in after heating to it's natural cool state or the symmetry originally achieved when it was strain wound.

The take away? More actual vaporization at whatever res you're winding. Coils last much longer. The symmetry most often surviving the life of the created ceramic alumina layer created electrically pulsing these vs. turned or formed coils. The effect is what appears to be a cooler output at the same mech res. Which is to say, more effective vaporization. A side advantage is less battery stress/life as you can get an often better result at a higher res. Or, drop it on a variable and get very impressive vapor density for even less wattage.

Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

Start with a straight wire 23 AWG at about .25-.27Ω (18650) and you'll see. The parallels are for more contact surface area for the wire mass (max output).

Remember you would be building a higher vapor density. You can take this greater production and amplify volume by adding air flow at atomizer (inlet) or through the DT and draw used. Best of all worlds really.

LMK if I can help.

Good luck. :)

 
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BrotherBob

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Hello guys/gals
I just recently got my first mech mod (Limitless Sleeve V2). On my regulated mod I usually vape at .20ohms. After a ton of research, studying of ohms law and battery safety, I've decided to go with the INR20700A battery for this build. My question is.....as a new mech mod user, what do you guys think of this build?
Welcome and glad you joined.
Glad to hear you have done your homework. The is good only if you like it.
 
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asmcriminal

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Nov 15, 2010
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Congrats. I love my LMC collection, all authentic. Really enjoy all my variables but mech's really let a vape shine in all its subtle variations. If I can be of any help showing you how to get to a dynamite reliable baseline nudge me.


Best of luck. :)


I made some tension coils as well with your help. These coils really rock. It sounds like a rumbling highend sports car or like a cat puring.There is this pulsing sound which is really cool. There is this pulsing sound which is really cool.

46486095_2177320972506526_1820021541623037952_n.jpg



Here is a video of them rocking at 37 watts.

 
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MacTechVpr

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Thx asm. Good job. These will improve as you have a chance to experiment with and work out oxidation. Uniformity will significantly improve performance and durability. I pulse at diff voltage increments and variations of firing length to achieve diff results for different purposes. Each atomizer tends to need its own solution. It's squaring this with your own power or density likes that's the interesting challenge. Here's one for high output on a Kanger Subtank…


Good luck. :)
 

vapdivrr

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Make them anywhere from just <.2 and up to 26AWG. Always try to leave about a min of 20% headroom in the batt. But these are s t r a i n wound and such tensioned Kanthal closed or contact coils run very on spec, efficient. That is to say, cooler. An optimum of power is delivered to vaporization. It's not that this is coming from the ether, it's that a lot of waste comes from inefficient contact (to wick and wire-to-wire). If you read some of my stuff on strain and symmetry I think this will help.

Next comes…how do we get there? Two ways: hand and drill winding, once you gain some experience just how much strain is needed for a given gauge. Strain in the end is stretching not much is needed but it's more than just pulling on the wire and must be consistent. Then you see a behavior quite the opposite of what most folks believe is optimal — they do not fire inside out! They mostly fire end-to-end and it does not require compression (squeezing) to get there. The deficit of forcing wire together is that they tend to return to their original unforced state (like coiler winds). A tensioned microcoil tends to constantly pull in after heating to it's natural cool state or the symmetry originally achieved when it was strain wound.

The take away? More actual vaporization at whatever res you're winding. Coils last much longer. The symmetry most often surviving the life of the created ceramic alumina layer created electrically pulsing these vs. turned or formed coils. The effect is what appears to be a cooler output at the same mech res. Which is to say, more effective vaporization. A side advantage is less battery stress/life as you can get an often better result at a higher res. Or, drop it on a variable and get very impressive vapor density for even less wattage.

Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

Start with a straight wire 23 AWG at about .25-.27Ω (18650) and you'll see. The parallels are for more contact surface area for the wire mass (max output).

Remember you would be building a higher vapor density. You can take this greater production and amplify volume by adding air flow at atomizer (inlet) or through the DT and draw used. Best of all worlds really.

LMK if I can help.

Good luck. :)

Beautiful as ever mac. It's nice to see real micros still being used
 
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