Demystifying VV and VW Settings: Variable Voltage, Wattage, and You!

Status
Not open for further replies.

beckdg

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 1, 2013
11,018
35,705
TN
I fail to see how the quoted post dismissed either one? Seems to me you made a lot of assumptions.

Are you here to contribute and be helpful? Or are you here to be nasty and presumptuous?

it is unfortunate to see how this is perceived.

time to break the law, i guess... ohm's law... (reference to prior experience, forgive me).

there are many ways to influence flavor, vapor and TH. they're all physical attributes whether they lend themselves to a difference in electrical current, resistance and/or power. your preferred vape isn't always as simple as IR=V.

it is well known that just the placement of the wraps of otherwise identical coils will influence the vape... http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...271-micro-coils-increase-vapor-flavor-th.html
just making each wrap of a coil contact the former and latter will increase vapor, flavor and throat hit.

then you have air flow. too much air flow and you're going to cool the coil too much, mute the flavor and limit your vapor production, maybe with a side of airy draw or harsh, burnt flavor. not enough air flow and everything's burnt and harsh.

you also have chamber size, shape and depth or length. a longer, larger channel for the vape to flow through once it's produced will mute the flavor and vapor production. any obstructions along the path can have adverse reactions to your vape as well.

then you have wick size, length, placement and material. the right wick can and will completely change the game for anyone.

then you have coil material, gauge and length.

first let us imagine a 1" x 1" x 1/4" aluminum heat sink. then let us imagine a 4" x 4" x 1" heat sink with 3/4" deep fins machined into the 1". now imagine which one of those heat sinks is going to transfer the most heat away from the object it's built to cool and the difference in efficiency.

32 gauge kanthal would be equivalent to the 1" heat sink whereas 28 gauge kanthal would be quite a bit closer to 4" "high tech" heat sink when built to anywhere near the same resistance. between the lower resistance, larger diameter and the extra length needed to match the resistance of the 32 gauge coil, the 28 gauge kanthal would be massive in surface area and cooling potential and minuscule in heating ability at the same current.

for a working example, i'll refer to my protanks;

say i take 32 gauge, 30 gauge and 28 gauge kanthal and i make a bunch of wicks. maybe 3, maybe 100, who cares.
let's make them identical in inner diameter of the coils and resistance. we'll say 1.8Ω.

a 1.8Ω 28Ga coil in a protank takes 10 watts and a second or two just to heat up in a protank. if you chain vape, the protank gets hot and needs constant breaks because not only does the tank heat up, but so does the mod it's connected to. 15 watts is possible for a quick blast. almost impossible to burn wick or coil with 15 watts on this build, but also impossible to vape all day. the mod might over heat and shut down... often... and due to the chamber being hot, the vapor flavor and production will suffer greatly.

a 1.8Ω 30 Ga coil in a protank at 10 watts is heated and producing great vapor immediately. also plenty of room for air flow and cooling. though, there is a potential to burn a wick, but it's not likely.

a 1.8Ω 32 Ga coil in a protank at 10 watts will almost certainly burn your cotton. instant heat. not useful.

***************subsequently, i can get much higher wattage and/or higher juice consumption out of a single coil protank than i can out of an iclear 16B. the difference is astounding. and to get the same flavor out of the protank, it most certainly uses more juice at nearly the same wattage than it's dual bottom coil counter part, the 16B.

but the bottom line is: VW is VV... just your device chooses the Voltage for you according to your wattage preference. this works great on many devices and for stock coils and heads. not so much once you start to really tailor your vape, rebuilding, modding and tinkering. i change my wattage as often as i change heads these days.

provari(i/s) [what's the proper plural?], mechs and reo/rm2 currently in the mail heading this way. :D
 

sawlight

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 2, 2009
7,408
10,984
Kansas
Are you here to contribute and be helpful? Or are you here to be nasty and presumptuous?

I can be all of that, more and a bag of chips! My original post was tongue in cheek, merely goofing of.
If you care to dig, I have more than several helpful posts, not sure how this got twisted into this much of mess.

The point of the OP was to try and demystify the differences between VW and VV. I have seen plenty of people take a dismissive attitude that they are the same thing when they are not.

Nobody likes to be labeled a "newbie" it is usually a pejorative term. It appeared you commented on this thread simply to call everyone a newbie. If this was not your intent, then I apologize.

You are correct, the goals are the same, but how you get there are not.

If I'm trying to maintain 65 mph on the freeway, I can do so one of two ways. I can either continually adjust the accelerator to compensate for changes in the road or I can put on the cruise control and let the car do it for me.

Some like cruise control, some do not. For some people it is a necessary feature, for others it is not.

The advantages of cruise control depend on how you drive. If you are the type of driver that is constantly speeding up and slowing down, the cruise control isn't really a big deal for you. If you like to set the speed and let the car controls speed, then it is.

The same holds true for variable wattage, vs variable voltage.

How you vape determines how valuable it is for you.

I find that MOST people who come from other VV regulated mods don't find value in VW because they are already used to adjusting their device, and for them, adjusting one setting vs adjusting another setting is inconsequential.

However, I came to VW right from an eGo-T unregulated device. I never had the ability to adjust my device before, so I am not used to it. I actually prefer the simplicity to finding a sweet spot and sticking with it. For me, variable wattage provides me the ability to set my device to my taste preference, but also gives me the consistent vaping experience I am used to.

And that is just wonderful, for you. Me on the other hand, it just doesn't work for me. Carto tanks, I was fat dumb and happy. RDA's I vary from 6-10 normally. The new generation of RBA's out now, it varies even more for me. Same wire, same juice, cotton wicking in both, the Kayfun suits my taste at 5-6 watts, the Fogger V2, it's not happy unless it's HOT, 13-15 watts.
Now my original post, it's a means to the same end, is true, both get you there, and regardless what device I use, other than my mechanicals, I have to adjust to get what I want. It's not always the "set it and forget it" that so many try to make it out to be. Yes, it's a nice convince to have, but VW isn't the end all, beat all that many preach it to be.
 

p.opus

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2010
2,118
5,602
Coral Springs FL
It's not always the "set it and forget it" that so many try to make it out to be. Yes, it's a nice convince to have, but VW isn't the end all, beat all that many preach it to be.

That is true, but neither is it EXACTLY the same a variable voltage as some preach it to be.

Again, it depends on how YOU vape.

I find a lot of ProVari users who dismiss variable wattage because their devices don't support it. They try to dismiss it as not a big deal and therefore their beloved Mod should not be criticized for not having it.

Depending on how you vape, a variable wattage device can require significantly less user adjustment than a variable voltage device. At the worst, a variable wattage device will require the same amount of adjustment as a variable voltage device.

Maybe your not "that guy". There are plenty of ProVari owners who are honest enough to put down the rose colored glasses and accept that their device is not a perfect fit for everyone, and will own it, instead of making everyone try to conform to the limitations of their device.

If you are big into building coils, and using RDA's great. It's easy for you to build a coil that completely negates the need for a variable wattage device. Variable Wattage gives you no benefit what so ever. And no one said that for your usage profile that VW is set and forget it.

I have a different vaping profile, not better, different. I use 4 mini protank 2's and a protank 2. They are all very similar in build and thus perform the same. My coils are all prebuilt, I don't build my own. I rewick and dry burn to extend their life, but that's it. All my juices have a sweet spot of about 7 ohms. At 7.5 ohms, I start to taste burnt hits.

So for my profile, I can "set it and forget it" and get a very real advantage using VW over VV.

While VW is not always "set it and forget it", it also is not simply a gimmick that should be summarily dismissed simply because my mod of choice does not implement it.
 

sawlight

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 2, 2009
7,408
10,984
Kansas
I've never dismissed it as anything, and yes, there are MANY that do preach the "set it and forget it mentality". I like my Provari because it's the only variable mod that will put up with me. I've been known to throw it on the floor at vape shops to show it's durability. But that's neither here nor there.
I've used an MVP, I liked it, but it's not an easily replaceable battery, granted it's a really long run battery, but once it's dead, you just throw it away, it's cheaper to.
I LOVE the Vapor Shark, really damn near bought one, just on size alone, but the battery is even smaller than the MVP, with less run time, not what I really want in a back up device.
I loved the VTR, smooth vape, on par with my Provari and I'll admit it. Great device, but too big and way too heavy for my wants.
I helped Grateful vapor design his DNA mod. The proto-type was originally designed as a Provari killer in a box mod. But he really wanted to use Aluminum for cost effectiveness, I get it, but by the time I figured in 1/4" thick walls to make it as strong as the SS used on the Provari, it was as large as the VTR and even heavier. It flopped badly! The new design is a simple off the shelf box with cut outs and really cool hydro graphics on it!
I see advantages to DNA mods, I see advantages to VW in general, but none have been built to withstand the beating my Provari has been through, or they are considerably more expensive than the Provari. At $300, plus shipping, plus waiting for it to come in, plus having to ship it back across the pond if something were to go wrong, the Semovar is off my wish list for a lot of reasons.
I've used DNA devices, they are fine, just none of them met my needs. I've looked at a lot of products, if you can't tell yet, and the only way I've seen to get what I want/need is to buy a Provari, or make it myself. Being half crippled up, I can't get terribly excited about spending a week in the local machine shop to make something that compares to my Provari, but gives me VW, it's just not worth it to me!
As for Provape, I wish like Hell they'd come out with VW just to shut people up!
So, for me, I can figure it either way, I can use it either way and I make suggestions either way, or neither depending on what that persons needs are. I use mechanical's, I've used DNA, I've used many others in between. I own what I own for my own reasons, I try to recommend things to users based on their needs. It's that easy.
 
When I sent for my MVP 2., I was wondering what the difference is, so I searched the forum so I would have at least a vague idea when it gets here. I'm glad I found this post. It was very easy to understand.

I'm a newbie, and really happy that there is so much help on these forums.

Glad my article helped! I was really confused when I got my mvp and didn't understand the difference :) I hope you love ur mvp as much as I love mine!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Slurp812

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 18, 2011
431
122
62
Northwest Ohio
Iv read this somwhere her on this forum, but a quick way to get close to 8 watts on a VV, is atty/carto ohms +2 = volts. Its not exact, but will get you in the ballpark quickly, without doing any hard math. 1.7 ohm set to 3.7 volts. 2.5 ohm, set to 4.5 volts. If we do the math we can see at 3.7 volts on a 1.7 ohm load, we get 8.05 watts. 4.5 volts applied to a 2.5 ohm load is 8.1 watts. It does go up woth the resistance of the load, so if you like high ohm/volt stuff, maybe drop down a tenth of a volt. Simple...
 

sawlight

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 2, 2009
7,408
10,984
Kansas
Some people like a Map while others prefer a GPS system...I like to have both in the car because even though I grew up during an era where Maps were all we had, I still appreciate the simplicity and accuracy a GPS system provides.

And sometimes I just like to drive around in the country aimlessly just to see what I come across!
Just because you "think", or someone else has told you that one or the other is best or better, it doesn't mean it's going to be right for you, or everyone else. Don't be afraid to try new things once in a while.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread