The first built I ever did was A dual coil on a trident clone. It was 6 wraps each and it came out to about .60 something ohms. I used that with my m16 clone with 24 gauge wire. I just got a new omega atomizer clone and every built I make on it come out to like .2 or .3 ohms. I've done dual coil with 7 wraps each. Single coil with 6 wraps. Single with 10 wraps and they've all came out to the same ohms when I put it on my ohm reader. It comes out to .2 or .3. This was done with 28 gauge wire I bought from a local vale shop and 26 gage wire I bought from Michaels. Can anyone tell me why this is happening? I've been dying to use my new omega on my new MCV panzer but I just can't get the built to be at a save ohm level. Also is the wire I buy from a vape shop and the one I get from Michaels the same? It looks exactly the same. I've put it under fire whenever I tried making a built with it to burn off the chemicals. I just need to know why the ohms are so low. What can I do to get a safe ohm level and start vaping!?
coils reading low ohms don't know why please help
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im using 30 gauge kanthal dual coils 5 wraps at .3 ohms so it sounds like youre ohms are reading right. when u run dual coils/parallel you divide the ohms in half compared to single coil. so if a single coil is reading 1ohm and u add another coil with the same wraps itll drop down to .5 ohms. .3-.5 ohms is my sweet spot for vaping although u have to use a device that can handle sub-ohm like a mech mod.
Also I am not sub ohming so I need to be at save level for regular vaping. Thanks PolarGoat for reminding me about that! Lol
to get the resistance youre looking for youll need alot more wraps. you can use this site to help figure out how many wraps youll need. steam-engine.org/coil.asp
That's what I thought that's why I made a coil with 10 wraps but it gave me the same ohms as the coil with 6 wraps.
There's also an app for android phones called the vapors tool box. I suggest it for everyone who has questions like this.
Have you maybe checked anything else on whatever you are testing your coils on to see if maybe it is a problem with the ohm meter?
Also when you talk about getting wire from Michael's I'm assuming you are taking about the craft store.
I couldn't find any kind of kanthal or resistance wire at all on their site.
Mind telling us what kind of wire it is?
Of course I could be completely wrong about that and if I am I do apologize lol
Also when you talk about getting wire from Michael's I'm assuming you are taking about the craft store.
I couldn't find any kind of kanthal or resistance wire at all on their site.
Mind telling us what kind of wire it is?
Of course I could be completely wrong about that and if I am I do apologize lol
I wasn't aware that Michaels sells resistance wire... I know that they sell regular silver wire, unless it is the type used for styrofoam cutting.
I believe that kind of wire has a very low ohm/foot rating...
I believe that kind of wire has a very low ohm/foot rating...
I wouldn't use that wire from Michaels. Chances are it is not resistance wire. Make sure you get Kanthal.
I just had the same problem. My atty used to be 1.8 and the mod started getting warm when I was using it so I checked and it was reading .58. Figured something had gone wrong so I built and installed a new coil and got .59 where I know it should be up over 1. Looked around for problems and found none so I pulled the coil out and checked the atty. It read 1 ohm with my new patented invisible coil.
My problem is that something inside my atty is shorting.
My problem is that something inside my atty is shorting.
Hi lee (and here I go mangling your handle again, lol). Nice runnin' into ya. Now that I'm here I'm reminded of the conundrum I was confronted with the first few weeks I started vaping. How much blind leading the blind I ran into.
It's a very good question you pose. One I asked myself even before I tried my first Blu. Why are we using archaic technology for vaporizing circuits? What piece of modern electronics would we pay a cent for that contained a hand-wound coil?
To answer the OP's question, there is a specific reason we use Kanthal: It has unique properties that make it optimal for vaporization. It is first resistance wire and so efficiently arrives at the relatively low temperatures needed for vaporization without that itself representing a hazard to safety. And achieving that goal is important to obtaining a good vape return both vapor and flavor as well as avoiding overheating the coil element and charring the juice or wick media which are to some arguably the potential sources of hazard to users. And we certainly want to mitigate every potential source of risk. I mean, that's why we quit in the first place.
It stands to reason that given these simple and clear goals we should strive to improve as much as possible the efficiency of the vaporizer elements we construct or purchase. And here would be a good example of such a circuit constructed in seconds with simple inexpensive tools and capable of delivering extremely efficient output of vapor and flavor…
So let me cut to the chase here and say we need Kanthal because of its unique attributes. It forms an alumina oxide layer that helps prevent shorting between turns. An innovation introduced here on ECF, a tensioned contact micro coil, can be made by anyone in minutes and with excellent thermal transfer efficiency resulting in a truly outstanding flavor experience. It also won't easily gunk or fail like random coils that lack the proper electrical symmetry. Come on now, think about this.
It doesn't require tremendous skill or practice. The wind is simple and straightforward. And there is a bit of a learning curve acquiring the know-how as to what your particular atomizer requires. A geometry of assembly and coil design that keeps it from shorting. Yes, there is an optimal shape to a coil. But there's also a wonderful vapor and flavor horizon once you get the keys to this vehicle.
Two examples of threads focusing on these real essentials, not just guess work…
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html
Try to pay these a visit and pick up some of the basics of efficient safe coils and atty assembly. You will thank yourself for taking the time.
Good luck.
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That was going to be my comment. You can get Kanthal very inexpensively on eBay with free shipping.
Here's your answer OP; pull the coil out , and then check the ohms to see if there is a short.
Of course, this is three days later. Hopefully the OP has figured it out by now
Of course, this is three days later. Hopefully the OP has figured it out by now
I think the problem must've vanished rye.
Good luck.
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