Cloupor Mini Mod 30W
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I second what Kent wrote.
Besides the Cloupor Mini's diminutive size, its best feature is the quick-change battery setup with a magnet-secured door and pull tab. Swapping out an 18650 IMR takes about 15 seconds, start to finish, and that includes getting up off the couch, walking over to the charger, taking out the old battery, putting in the fresh battery, placing the old one in the charger, and sitting back down on the couch.
Why even take a chance on a potentially wonky usb circuit that will incapacitate your Mini for a couple hours, especially since we know that passthrough vaping is a bad idea? Yes, I understand that not everyone has dedicated chargers and at least a pair of good 20A 18650 IMRs lying around, but, for those who don't, the extra expense is a very sound investment, almost like having a Get-Out-of-Jail-Free card in Monopoly.
Besides the Cloupor Mini's diminutive size, its best feature is the quick-change battery setup with a magnet-secured door and pull tab. Swapping out an 18650 IMR takes about 15 seconds, start to finish, and that includes getting up off the couch, walking over to the charger, taking out the old battery, putting in the fresh battery, placing the old one in the charger, and sitting back down on the couch.
Why even take a chance on a potentially wonky usb circuit that will incapacitate your Mini for a couple hours, especially since we know that passthrough vaping is a bad idea? Yes, I understand that not everyone has dedicated chargers and at least a pair of good 20A 18650 IMRs lying around, but, for those who don't, the extra expense is a very sound investment, almost like having a Get-Out-of-Jail-Free card in Monopoly.
I do have that exact charger, but i think it's a lot more convenient to use usb charging when traveling. I don't plan to use passthrough to vape rather just charging with the USB port.
Cloupor vendors have been warning against car chargers. But an iphone - 5 volt, 1 amp wall plug should work. See:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/177864-iphone-charger.html
Some nitecores come with a car charger
at least mine did back in the day.
Some nitecores come with a car charger
12v Power adapter
Some nitecores come with a car charger
My nitecore is USB powered. So you can buy a USB adapter to charge in your vehicle.
finally got my boards in, here she is, no screen glitches so far and vaping like it should:
- love the size and replaceable battery.
- screen cover is tinted so its very hard to read outside.
- dont love the adjustabe 510, but im willing to live with it since i dont want to change the design by addind a fd 510.
- love the size and replaceable battery.
- screen cover is tinted so its very hard to read outside.
- dont love the adjustabe 510, but im willing to live with it since i dont want to change the design by addind a fd 510.
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The 510 base on my Mini has started to become loose and as a result it causes the tank to wobble back-and-forth slightly. I'm disappointed but it could be worse. I've only had it since January but I'm not concerned about voiding any warranty so I removed the internal cover thinking/hoping there would be some sort of threaded ring which may have become loose and require some tightening - but it appears the base is not built that way. I'm thinking about applying some epoxy or solder around the base (in the area indicated by the red arrow in my photo) to help prevent it from wobbling. Not sure if anyone else has experienced this issue yet or has any recommendations. This is the only issue I've had so far and it is my go-to mod which I continue use daily/exclusively.
finally got my boards in, here she is, no screen glitches so far and vaping like it should:
- love the size and replaceable battery.
- screen cover is tinted so its very hard to read outside.
- dont love the adjustabe 510, but im willing to live with it since i dont want to change the design by addind a fd 510.
How did you do the buttons? Cut the original board for the buttons?
i was thinking i would, but i ended up having some old rat shack buttons laying around. i ground down the actuators a little, cut some bits from old circuit board, drilled holes for the button leads, soldered some wire, epoxied them in place. took a little time, but nothing too hard.
Yeah, a pressed-in 510 can become loose fairly easily. Sometimes it's because the hole in the box was made oversize, sometimes it gets dropped w/an atty on it, sometimes screwing an atty on or off will cause the 510 to spin in the housing. You could replace the 510 altogether using a 510 from Fat Daddys, Madvapes or Varitube, etc. Replacing the 510 requires soldering and possibly drilling/tapping depending on which one being used. Your idea of epoxy could work, too. Degrease everything using a q-tip and alcohol and roughing the surfaces that will be in contact w/the epoxy helps adhesion. I'd suggest using quick curing JB Weld but that's up to you. Be sure the 510 is level before gluing it. You can use an atty or an atty base to check.
As a quick, non-permanent fix, you can just totally fill that area with hot glue. Worked for me so far, when it starts to wiggle again, lather, rinse, repeat. Will go for a more durable replacement 510 solution when I eventually get around to putting a new board in this thing.
Not going to waste money on DNA40 at this point. Yihi's boards are the new hotness. Pretty sure there's room to mount a Yihi SX-350J in there if you de-solder the USB port, and as a bonus you probably can use the board mounted switches, the up/down should line right up with the hole spacing on the Cloupor, and the fire switch is on a separate daughter board. The display cutout on the housing will also provide enough room for the larger 0.91" display on the Yihi (the current "Evolv Standard" 0.69" display doesn't use the entire cutout).
Or maybe the updated with temp protection SX-330 V4S, though there's not as much flexibility for mounting, just being one long board, and it may just be too long.
Not going to waste money on DNA40 at this point. Yihi's boards are the new hotness. Pretty sure there's room to mount a Yihi SX-350J in there if you de-solder the USB port, and as a bonus you probably can use the board mounted switches, the up/down should line right up with the hole spacing on the Cloupor, and the fire switch is on a separate daughter board. The display cutout on the housing will also provide enough room for the larger 0.91" display on the Yihi (the current "Evolv Standard" 0.69" display doesn't use the entire cutout).
Or maybe the updated with temp protection SX-330 V4S, though there's not as much flexibility for mounting, just being one long board, and it may just be too long.
Yes, JB Weld is exactly what I had in mind. Thanks for your response and recommendations.
As a quick, non-permanent fix, you can just totally fill that area with hot glue. Worked for me so far, when it starts to wiggle again, lather, rinse, repeat. Will go for a more durable replacement 510 solution when I eventually get around to putting a new board in this thing.
Not going to waste money on DNA40 at this point. Yihi's boards are the new hotness. Pretty sure there's room to mount a Yihi SX-350J in there if you de-solder the USB port, and as a bonus you probably can use the board mounted switches, the up/down should line right up with the hole spacing on the Cloupor, and the fire switch is on a separate daughter board. The display cutout on the housing will also provide enough room for the larger 0.91" display on the Yihi (the current "Evolv Standard" 0.69" display doesn't use the entire cutout).
Or maybe the updated with temp protection SX-330 V4S, though there's not as much flexibility for mounting, just being one long board, and it may just be too long.
Thanks for the tip.
Yeah the latest YiHi boards are appealing. That may well be my next venture if/when my board fails...an SX350 in a Cloupor Mini box would be a fine combo indeed.
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