Can you use tanks on mech mods?

[Syakster]

Hi guys,

I apologise if this is a stupid question, because I know people get really sensitive with users who show an interest in mech mods without knowing proper safety. I'm just wondering why mech mods are often paired with RDAs?

Sometimes I see pictures of tanks on mech mods, but I can't figure out if that only works on certain combinations. If so, what are the combinations that work?

Would a Russian 91% work on a dotmod for example?

Thanks, guys!

P/S: I do not own a mech mod, and don't plan on jumping into it for as long as I don't understand it fully.

 

[DangVape]

It work perfectly fine, I have lemo2 and only use mech mod. The only combination you have to be careful is pseudo hybrid with an atty that don't have an adjustable 510 center pin.

Since the Russian has adjustable center pin and the Dotmod is a regular mech mod not those pseudo hybrid it's perfectly fine as long as your battery can provide enough amperage for your coil.

I guess the reason why mech is often paired with RDA is in a mech you cannot control the voltage so the only way to play with the wattage is to rebuild your coil. Work fine with an RTA.

It also work with a clearo and prebuild coil but then you're stuck with the coil and there is no way to adjust the power if you don't like it

 

[Syakster]

It work perfectly fine, I have lemo2 and only use mech mod. The only combination you have to be careful is pseudo hybrid with an atty that don't have an adjustable 510 center pin.

Since the Russian has adjustable center pin and the Dotmod is a regular mech mod not those pseudo hybrid it's perfectly fine as long as your battery can provide enough amperage for your coil.

I guess the reason why mech is often paired with RDA is in a mech you cannot control the voltage so the only way to play with the wattage is to rebuild your coil. Work fine with an RTA.

It also work with a clearo and prebuild coil but then you're stuck with the coil and there is no way to adjust the power if you don't like it

I see. Yeah sorry, I should've mentioned that I only meant RTAs because those are all I have. I build my own coils on my tanks, so I wondered why I rarely see them being used on mech mods when you can build on them just like RDAs.

Also because I have a box mod that has a "mech mod" option, and it works fine with my tanks. So it made me wonder whether it would work on actualy mech mods.

Thanks for your answer!

 

[Eric Auer]

Just about any tank works well with a non-hybrid mech.

Actually some of my tanks like the cheap Innokin 30B shines on my 26650 Chi You.

Eric

 

[roxynoodle]

Most of my mechs are topped with RTAs.

 

[Nikea Tiber]

Mechs and RTAs are fine. As people mentioned, some of them won't play nice with hybrid top cap mechs. The other thing to be aware of is the ohm rating of the coil. I know aspire equips some of their tanks with 0.3 ohm coils which may be too high drain for some batteries. Taking this a step further, the proliferation on low resistance ni200 coils intended for TC regulated mods can pose a problem if you have multiple tanks. Keep a sharpie or vaping bands handy! A kanger subtank with a ni200 coil will toast any almost any single battery on the market right now, the danger is real don't be negligent.

 

[Wolfenstark]

Hi guys,

I apologise if this is a stupid question, because I know people get really sensitive with users who show an interest in mech mods without knowing proper safety. I'm just wondering why mech mods are often paired with RDAs?

Sometimes I see pictures of tanks on mech mods, but I can't figure out if that only works on certain combinations. If so, what are the combinations that work?

Would a Russian 91% work on a Dotmod for example?

Thanks, guys!

P/S: I do not own a mech mod, and don't plan on jumping into it for as long as I don't understand it fully.

Tanks are fine on a mech mod - Using RDA's was just how the culture started at first with people using a mech and an RDA.
With all the sub ohm tanks and rebuildable tanks things have changed. I used the Goblin tank all the time on a mech.
Hybrid mechs need the tank to have the 510 sticking out and not being able to be pushed back in , wouldn't bother with one of those as just limits the attys you can use.
Still need to use batteries that can handle the resistance of your atty be it tank or dripper.

 

[Syakster]

Mechs and RTAs are fine. As people mentioned, some of them won't play nice with hybrid top cap mechs. The other thing to be aware of is the ohm rating of the coil. I know aspire equips some of their tanks with 0.3 ohm coils which may be too high drain for some batteries. Taking this a step further, the proliferation on low resistance ni200 coils intended for TC regulated mods can pose a problem if you have multiple tanks. Keep a sharpie or vaping bands handy! A kanger subtank with a ni200 coil will toast any almost any single battery on the market right now, the danger is real don't be negligent.

Oh yeah, even though I have a temp control box mod, I haven't dabbled in that yet. I keep it pretty simple with normal kanthal builds, no lower than 0.6... I find anything lower than 0.6 too warm for my liking.

I have realised though that my Russian 91% tank has been a bit weird. My IPVD2 would read it at 0.7ohm, and when I press fire it'd jump up to 1.2ohm, then the next fire would take it down to 0.8ohm and so on. Say if I had this tank on a mech mod, with no way of realising that the ohms were jumping around, it could've been very dangerous, right?

So how do users of mech mods ensure that their coils are not doing this? Because if I put it on an ohm reader, it would read at 0.7 or whatever, but once I started pressing fire, that's when it starts jumping around. I only noticed because I happened to be looking at my little screen on my IPVD2 when pulsing.

 

[Syakster]

Tanks are fine on a mech mod - Using RDA's was just how the culture started at first with people using a mech and an RDA.
With all the sub ohm tanks and rebuildable tanks things have changed. I used the Goblin tank all the time on a mech.
Hybrid mechs need the tank to have the 510 sticking out and not being able to be pushed back in , wouldn't bother with one of those as just limits the attys you can use.
Still need to use batteries that can handle the resistance of your atty be it tank or dripper.

Gotcha. Yeah, I really like the idea of putting a tank on a mech mod because it'll make things so compact and easy for carrying... But I just ALWAYS see RDAs on mech mods, so it made me wonder whether the tank + mech mod combo was a big no no.

 

[93gc40]

You can use any atomizer on a mech that will mount on the mech. First mechs were used with Clearomizers and CARTOMIZERs. Some early users started out with CIGALIKE attys, mounted on the mech.

 

[edyle]

Hi guys,

I apologise if this is a stupid question, because I know people get really sensitive with users who show an interest in mech mods without knowing proper safety. I'm just wondering why mech mods are often paired with RDAs?

Sometimes I see pictures of tanks on mech mods, but I can't figure out if that only works on certain combinations. If so, what are the combinations that work?

Would a Russian 91% work on a Dotmod for example?

Thanks, guys!

P/S: I do not own a mech mod, and don't plan on jumping into it for as long as I don't understand it fully.

1: Can you use tanks on mechs?
Yes; of course.

2: Why mechs often paired with rda's?
Actually, that's the cheapest, most durable setup.
Whether that is "the" reason can be a question.

3: Tanks of mech mods: combinations that work;
You have to use a coil that will work with the voltage coming from the mech. (3.7 volts nominal)

 

[edyle]

Oh yeah, even though I have a temp control box mod, I haven't dabbled in that yet. I keep it pretty simple with normal kanthal builds, no lower than 0.6... I find anything lower than 0.6 too warm for my liking.

I have realised though that my Russian 91% tank has been a bit weird. My IPVD2 would read it at 0.7ohm, and when I press fire it'd jump up to 1.2ohm, then the next fire would take it down to 0.8ohm and so on. Say if I had this tank on a mech mod, with no way of realising that the ohms were jumping around, it could've been very dangerous, right?

So how do users of mech mods ensure that their coils are not doing this? Because if I put it on an ohm reader, it would read at 0.7 or whatever, but once I started pressing fire, that's when it starts jumping around. I only noticed because I happened to be looking at my little screen on my IPVD2 when pulsing.

You basically can't.

 

[Firestorm]

I pretty much exclusively use RTAs on mechanical mods. You'll most often find me with a GP Spheroid or KFL built at 1.2ohms on a mechanical mod with a 18350 battery. I prefer a small setup with a lot of juice capacity that I can carry around in my pocket. I do go through a handful of batteries each day but that doesn't bother me.

 

[sacullen]

So how do users of mech mods ensure that their coils are not doing this? Because if I put it on an ohm reader, it would read at 0.7 or whatever, but once I started pressing fire, that's when it starts jumping around. I only noticed because I happened to be looking at my little screen on my IPVD2 when pulsing.

Experienced mech users typically build to customize the vape to their tastes. A sudden change in the vape experience is an indication that something just went wrong. There could be a change in temperature, flavor, quantity of vapor, or even a dry hit.

In the case of a Russian/Kayfun, the most likely culprit is a loose connection. A screw might not be tightened down enough or the leg has slipped out from underneath the screw. Religiously checking resistance throughout the build process helps minimize problems like this. Changes in resistance would likely show up on a dedicated ohm reader in real time, not just when a fire button is pressed like in a regulated mod.

Once it's been built, a tank on a mech can provide a great vape.

 

[tj99959]

There is no blanket statement because no all mechanical mods were created equal.
If you mechanical happens to be a Reo, your topper needs to be able to get juice from the bottom (through the 510 connector)
If you mechanical happens to be a hybrid, your topper needs to be made to work on a hybrid (proper center pin)

But remember; we had mechanical mods before regulated mods were even invented.
The mechanical that I'm using today is 5 years old, and I've even used carto tanks on it.

Damn .... I forgot how shiny that brass use to be.

 

[roxynoodle]

I know if a screw gets loose or a coil goes out (and resistance changes) by the vape. If it suddenly gets weenie I throw the atty on the ohmmeter, and sure enough. Once you are used to your gear, you'll know the resistance is changing.

Tighten your post screws on the Russian. I'm certain one is loose.

 

[Syakster]

I know if a screw gets loose or a coil goes out (and resistance changes) by the vape. If it suddenly gets weenie I throw the atty on the ohmmeter, and sure enough. Once you are used to your gear, you'll know the resistance is changing.

Tighten your post screws on the Russian. I'm certain one is loose.

I'll try that. I've been doing this build for a while now and had no problems, but I just changed to some brandless kanthal coils that I got for cheap and it has been a bit hard to screw down. I feel like it's slightly thicker even though I asked for my usual 26g kanthal. I'll try using my 28g Alienwire tonight, see if it's easier to screw down and will probably hold better.

 

[vapo jam]

I have realised though that my Russian 91% tank has been a bit weird. My IPVD2 would read it at 0.7ohm, and when I press fire it'd jump up to 1.2ohm, then the next fire would take it down to 0.8ohm and so on. Say if I had this tank on a mech mod, with no way of realising that the ohms were jumping around, it could've been very dangerous, right?

So how do users of mech mods ensure that their coils are not doing this? Because if I put it on an ohm reader, it would read at 0.7 or whatever, but once I started pressing fire, that's when it starts jumping around. I only noticed because I happened to be looking at my little screen on my IPVD2 when pulsing.

I had the same problem with my R91; likely cause is that the threaded tube that holds the center pin is loose. To fix it, remove the center pin, stick a small flathead screwdriver into the 510 connection, and tighten down the tube. Make sure to just tighten snugly; this tube also holds the build deck in place, and I've broken the insulator before by tightening it too much. It helps to hold the build posts in place while doing this so that the positive post doesn't go sideways.

 

[vapo jam]

To answer original topic, yes, you can use an RTA on a mech. I used my Russian 91 exclusively on mech's for over a year. The only reason I stopped is because modern VV/VW mods caught up to mech's in power, and surpass them in safety by far.

 

[baba nana]

Still cant fire goblin mini tank on my .... u mod... think need to adjust the 510 firing pin..