Can I just replace the cotton instead of making a new coil?
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Yes. I remove my cotton (although I don't usually wait until I get dry hits, usually a reduction in flavor), dry burn the coil to get any gunk off of it, give it a quick rinse in water for any debris, allow to dry and rewick it. The coil can last through several such rewickings or more if you frequently change the wick for sampling different juices.
At what point would I be able to tell that a new coil is required? Surely I can't keep replacing cotton in the same coil for ever can I?
When it no longer looks clean after a dry burn, or if it still tastes off after a burn and rewicking. Assuming a wick change once a week, maybe 3 or 4 weeks. If you use a dark juice with a lot of flavoring, it will likely be sooner. More gunk to deal with.
Almost...
I have been using the same two coils (a 304 SS spring in Tilemahos and a K1 26/32 clapton in my REO/Manta2) since late March.
I have to re-Rayon every couple of weeks, but the coils just get dry burned and rinsed and they are as good as new.
Have fun
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I change my cotton about every 5 days. I burn off my coil by heating it until it glows (not bright red). Then I rinse them off in some running water. I do it a few times until they are clean. Then I simply re-wick. My coils are made from "Kanthal A1" and "Nichrome 80" wires. If you are using TI wire then don't dry burn them. I've heard it is dangerous to glow TI wire. My coils last a good 2 months vaping "unflavored with a little sweetener" at 65 - 80 watts daily.
you'll know when it seems flavor is muted even after a fresh wicking. i've gone months without changing some clapton coils. even some of my straight wire builds last a couple of months with dry burning and rewicking.
Sure can.
Every now and then Dry burn the coils if your coils are Kanthal, or Stainless Steel.
When you dry burn Kanthal an alumina coating is created. That's the silverish looking tone it takes on after the initial burn. Over time that coating will burn off and you need to replace the coil. The coil will start to look a little rusty. When that happens, replace the coil.
Dry burn only long enough to turn contaminants to ash, then while it's hot dunk it for a second under a running faucet to cool it.
Wire fatigue occurs over time from use and dry burning. As soon as it glows red, dunk it under a water stream. I replace a coil about once a month or when it's no longer shiny after a dry burn.
Dry burn only long enough to turn contaminants to ash, then while it's hot dunk it for a second under a running faucet to cool it.
Wire fatigue occurs over time from use and dry burning. As soon as it glows red, dunk it under a water stream. I replace a coil about once a month or when it's no longer shiny after a dry burn.
I replace a coil when the resistance crawls up from .8 to 1.0 ohms.
A coil lasts me almost 3 months
Very similar to what I do, Two_Bears, although at a different value
Over time, resistance WILL creep up. When it's no longer in the range you want, time to re-coil. Months is not uncommon.
I dry burn every two or three days when I replace wicks, so I probably fatigue the coil faster than most. When it's not silver and shiny after a dry burn and wash, it goes in the trash.
I'm still on the same roll of Kanthal I bought 2 years ago. It's getting thin, so I ordered a new roll this morning.
BTW, Kidney puncher has an EHPro Squape (R)eloaded clone on clearance for $2. It's has no logo, just a plain Squape (R)eloaded atomizer, but EHPro hasn't let me down yet. I dropped one in my cart along with some battery wraps and wire and a few other things.
I'm still on the same roll of Kanthal I bought 2 years ago. It's getting thin, so I ordered a new roll this morning.
BTW, Kidney puncher has an EHPro Squape (R)eloaded clone on clearance for $2. It's has no logo, just a plain Squape (R)eloaded atomizer, but EHPro hasn't let me down yet. I dropped one in my cart along with some battery wraps and wire and a few other things.
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Thanks brother.Very similar to what I do, Two_Bears, although at a different value
Over time, resistance WILL creep up. When it's no longer in the range you want, time to re-coil. Months is not uncommon.
Damn. Have I been doing it wrong?
I remove my atty, tear down the tank and top plate for a thorough wash with dish washing detergent.
Then wash the deck with he SS coil attached. Wipe or blow most of the water off and then dry burn the coil. Seems to work... Coil turns a light grey. I blow on it to cool it then re-wick.
Er... Shouldn't we wash out the residual juice in the deck before we dry burn?
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I remove my atty, tear down the tank and top plate for a thorough wash with dish washing detergent.
Then wash the deck with he SS coil attached. Wipe or blow most of the water off and then dry burn the coil. Seems to work... Coil turns a light grey. I blow on it to cool it then re-wick.
Er... Shouldn't we wash out the residual juice in the deck before we dry burn?
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I like to take a brass wire brush under a hot tap to my coils prior to a dry burn, then do a dry burn/rinse/brush again. Burnt crap still comes out from between the windings on that 2nd rinse that would otherwise still be there without the brush step. I get a noticeably cleaner taste (no residual burnt taste after a rewick). I change coils a LOT less often since I started doing that.
as others have said, a coil can last months. but since wire is so cheap i often replace the coil and wicking at the same time. a 25' roll of titanium wire is ~$6 and will make 50+ coils for me.
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