Burning out your low ohms coil > Your just using too many watts and amps

[Flt Simulation]

From everything that I have read, most sources of info seem to say that if your coil draws anything greater than about 2.0 amps of power, the life of the coil is greatly reduced.
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Well, on this forum it seems like the standard single coil build nowadays consists of making a 1.0-1.2 ohm single coil from 28 AWG wire.

And the battery in your unregulated mechanical mod delivers right at 3.7v

Looking at an Ohm's Law Calculator, a 1.2 ohm coil that is fed 3.7v will be producing 11.4 watts of power and drawing 3.1 amps

3.1 amps is a lot of power for one of these single coils made from 28 AWG wire, and not only that ... if you look at any of the chart below, the max recommended watts for a 1.2 ohm load is 7.5 watts ... Your 1.2 ohm coil being powered by your 3.7v battery is putting out 11.4 watts !

Don't seem like a 1.2 ohm or lower coil being fed 3.7v is a very good combination to me.

 

[grayscale]

"A light that burns twice as bright burns half as long." - Dr. Elden Tyrell
Yeah, that chart was pretty much for off the shelf BCCs like the T3 and and what nots.

 

[scrappy]

That's an old chart used for determining what voltage/wattage was safe for factory build coils. It doesn't apply to microcoils. When using a regulated device I'll use 6v on a 1.2ohm coil. I'll even use stacked 18350's on occasion. That's 8.4v on a 1.2ohm atty.

 

[KenD]

That chart shouldn't be used as a book of law. If your coil is wicking properly and you have good air flow you can easily vape at above 11w. And the coil can handle it, some subohmers will vape at 35w and more. Not sure how many amps you can safely draw from an ego though.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

[Flt Simulation]

At about how many watts on a 1.2 ohm coil do you start to get a burnt taste?

If these charts like the one I show above are out of date, is there a chart anywhere that is in fact better suited for the homemade coils people are making today?

For these guys that are feeding Kanthal wire with 35w or more, how long do there coils usually last ... 1 day? ... 1/2 day? ... couple of hours?

 

[Skauth]

At about how many watts on a 1.2 ohm coil do you start to get a burnt taste?

If these charts like the one I show above are out of date, is there a chart anywhere that is in fact better suited for the homemade coils people are making today?

For these guys that are feeding Kanthal wire with 35w or more, how long do there coils usually last ... 1 day? ... 1/2 day? ... couple of hours?

Idk about a more modern power chart.

What I do know is in my subohm phase, I was generally running 35-45 watts in my drippers. While my wicks
would last only 1 day, my coils would go weeks with a proper dry burn here and there.

Now that I've gone back to 1.2, I almost never recoil out of necessity. Generally out of boredom or adventure these days.

PS I have run my 1.2 micro all the way to 6v with no burnt taste. I will say I didn't think the flavor was as good at that power, but not burnt, just muted.

EDIT: worthy of note that I was running
singles in my drippers, not duals. So it was one coil taking all the wattage.

 

[Asmo6]

At about how many watts on a 1.2 ohm coil do you start to get a burnt taste?

Burnt is a product of heat, airflow, and wicking.

If your wick can keep feeding the juice at a steady enough rate - wattage is irrelevant. Wattage is basically heat - if you can balance the correct amount of airflow and wick fast enough. It won't burn. Obviously there are realistic limits to all of these things, and the higher you turn up the heat, the more likely you are to toast things. At certain wattages you may see a combination of burning / and normal atomization - and it can mess up flavor as soon as you fall out of balance a little.

I regularly push more than 20+ watts through 28G Kanthal and it could care less. 32G is a different story...

I've seen that pop dry burning it with spaced coils.

28G scrunched? Nah...

That chart is for standard off the shelf coils. Mech's and RBA's regularly operate 10-20+ watts higher all the time.


If you're a car guy, then this should all make sense to you. You should have a basic understanding of A/F ratio's and it's not that different. A soggy wick and low wattage = weak vape. High power and a good fuel delivery system (wicking) combined with the right airflow = big vape. Bad wicking is like going lean, and she's gonna burn!

Coils are like connecting rods / pistons. Bigger beefier wire = stronger. Pinched together, no hotspots it lights as a unit and not so much a thin little wire. Which means it can handle more heat.

 

[Sweeperdk]

I'm running with an Origen dripper, dual coil 28GA kanthal measured @ 0.4Ω , so with a fresh battery that's somewhere around 40 watts.

My current build is three weeks old, and is working just as fine as the day it was made.

Please, disregard that chart for rebuildables... It's misleading

 

[Nomoreash]

At about how many watts on a 1.2 ohm coil do you start to get a burnt taste?

If these charts like the one I show above are out of date, is there a chart anywhere that is in fact better suited for the homemade coils people are making today?

For these guys that are feeding Kanthal wire with 35w or more, how long do there coils usually last ... 1 day? ... 1/2 day? ... couple of hours?

Depends on what's being used, size of wick, coil, ability to get juice to the coil at the rate required for the heat being supplied, airflow and many other factors. There is no answer to that, even using the same device, atty and juice could get different results.

I learned early on wattage charts don't mean much. Start low and turn it up a little at a time until you're where you want to be. If you start getting a burned taste before you're there then start troubleshooting.

 

[Ohm Really]

At about how many watts on a 1.2 ohm coil do you start to get a burnt taste?

If these charts like the one I show above are out of date, is there a chart anywhere that is in fact better suited for the homemade coils people are making today?

For these guys that are feeding Kanthal wire with 35w or more, how long do there coils usually last ... 1 day? ... 1/2 day? ... couple of hours?

My current RDA setup is a dual micro coil build at .42 ohms. It's been in my nimbus for almost 2 months now, and I can't say they're working any worse than they were when I wrapped them originally.

Wire longevity, like everything, is variable based on how you're running it. Juice quality, how often you dry fire the coils, everything matters. If you keep the wick around the coil saturated and only dry fire briefly to clean, coils can last much longer than you think.

 

[Ronald3638]

Watt density (Watts per square inch) is the largest factor that affects the life of the coil. The larger diameter the wire is the more surface area it will have and the lower the watt density and thus the longer the coil will last.

 

[jersey_emt]

For these guys that are feeding Kanthal wire with 35w or more, how long do there coils usually last ... 1 day? ... 1/2 day? ... couple of hours?

Weeks. Months even.

 

[TrentTC]

I have my kraken set up with dual coils. 4 wraps of 28 gauge. .4 ohms. Coils last at least a month. I usually end up wrapping a new coil before they go bad, usually a little after a month so I don't have a great idea how long they actually last. It all just depends on your setup.

 

[CloudZ]

I've found that a single strand of 28 gauge kanthal will work nicely without burning juice down to 0.7 ohms (25 Watts). At 0.6 ohms, I notice juice burning unless the coil is drowning. Its been a while, but I think this cutoff for 30 gauge is about 1 ohm.

If a coil can survive repeated dry burns for cleaning (firing until bright red), it isn't going to be damaged when it is saturated with juice. I've never had a coil pop, but I have replaced them when they get a heavy oxide crust that wont burn off. This is usually after months of use.

That chart is good for cartos and stock clearo heads, 30 gauge rebuilt clearo heads can be run a little ways into the "danger zone" without problems. The truth is, there is no convenient chart for anything rebuilt. You need to just push the limits until problems pop up, then dial it back a notch. Its much more important to know about battery limitations and safety. So what if you burn your wick or a little juice, just tear it out and try again until you get it right. Its all part of the journey if what you seek is your "perfect vape".