Atomizer Heat Sink?
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Dismissing atomizer to air to body heat transfer is suspect. Theres a reason your body is getting so hot, there's ALOT of energy being transferred! Saying it is localized (during the "short" heating cycle) to the atomizer heating element and mesh is also suspect. Much of what would be accomplished by putting a heat sink on would be as i described above and produce negative results to battery life and vapor production efficiency.
What I suspect you really want is an Insulator, not a Conductor. Air does conduct heat rapidly and adding a heat conductor such as a heat sink would transfer heat away from the "heating chamber" and thus lower efficiency while in operation (which if you want it to run cooler, just lower the voltage anyway, because that is much of what putting a heat sink on will do, is lower the effective voltage until the heat sink becomes saturated). Simple thermal dynamics apply here. But if you were to add an insulator, such as insulating material like a fiberglass pack or a double wall with the air vacuumed out (like on double pane windows or a thermos), it would allow the exterior to run cool and the interior to remain hot without sacrificing efficiency.
What I suspect you really want is an Insulator, not a Conductor. Air does conduct heat rapidly and adding a heat conductor such as a heat sink would transfer heat away from the "heating chamber" and thus lower efficiency while in operation (which if you want it to run cooler, just lower the voltage anyway, because that is much of what putting a heat sink on will do, is lower the effective voltage until the heat sink becomes saturated). Simple thermal dynamics apply here. But if you were to add an insulator, such as insulating material like a fiberglass pack or a double wall with the air vacuumed out (like on double pane windows or a thermos), it would allow the exterior to run cool and the interior to remain hot without sacrificing efficiency.
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Just responding to the OP.
Not drawing any conclusions except that the product will do what is designed to do, dissipate heat.
Personally I do what warp said, but I rotate 3 PV's, not two.
Not drawing any conclusions except that the product will do what is designed to do, dissipate heat.
Personally I do what warp said, but I rotate 3 PV's, not two.
I think the OP is 100% correct and I've been curious about an external sink as well.
The external sink will not be efficient enough to detrimentally effect that atomizer in any way. If you assume that the heat will be pulled off instantaneously then yeah, that could cause heat to be wasted, but since heat is generated by the coil, then passed to the pot, then the external case, the sink probably wouldn't see any real heat until you had finished your hit and would be an effective means of bleeding off the waste while you exhaled.
Besides, the vaporization of the liquid is what keeps the atty from glowing red in the first place, and is the most effective heat sink we've got. I re-iterate that a bit more metal attached to the case won't adversly effect vapor.
The external sink will not be efficient enough to detrimentally effect that atomizer in any way. If you assume that the heat will be pulled off instantaneously then yeah, that could cause heat to be wasted, but since heat is generated by the coil, then passed to the pot, then the external case, the sink probably wouldn't see any real heat until you had finished your hit and would be an effective means of bleeding off the waste while you exhaled.
Besides, the vaporization of the liquid is what keeps the atty from glowing red in the first place, and is the most effective heat sink we've got. I re-iterate that a bit more metal attached to the case won't adversly effect vapor.
I'm glad I read this thread as I was thinking of putting my 510 connector recessed when my batts come in for my NicoStick setup.
As far as heat-sink on the atty goes I'm not sure how much good that will do but I would recommend not using thermal past but instead just try for the best fit possible and remove the paint at the contact point. As Thermal past could be unsafe and true metal to metal connection will give better heat transfer over any thermal paste.
Don't want to flip the script here but... There's been some experimentation going on with using metal mesh (brass, stainless, etc) in place of poly-fil in the carts. A side effect that many who have done this have noticed is a noticable decrease in atty temp. (on the outside of course and no hard temperature readings have been posted). The vapor produced from the mesh is heavier than with poly so there's speculation as to if the atty is being cooled by the increase in wicking or the metal mesh acting like a heat sink because it touches the bridge. I'm using a 510 and the atty is still performing well after 1.5 months of steady use. I do not rotate attys.
Not trying to torpedo the thread, just thought I'd add food for thought.
Respects
Not trying to torpedo the thread, just thought I'd add food for thought.
Respects
Great idea here. I had the same one on the way home from work a few days ago. I think a heat sink around the atomizer would really help the cool down and help with the burnt taste i get which I believe is from vaping to much and not letting it cool enough. My thoughts were to get some aluminum and get the lathe out.
one thing I do in the car on the way to work these cool mornings is to hold the atomizer against the bare aluminum of my steering wheel between puffs on it, kind of roll it back and forth. I do notice it helps the cool down
I don't think the smaller heat sinks will help a lot. This one keeps it from getting hot but its still warm:
Heat sink compound does improve it. I'm also using a variation of the brass screen mod with copper wicking material. I don't get any noticeable difference in the warm up time.
A metal cartridge should help.
Heat sink compound does improve it. I'm also using a variation of the brass screen mod with copper wicking material. I don't get any noticeable difference in the warm up time.
A metal cartridge should help.
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check into finding some of this and you will be good..
Copper Fin Tube,Agriculture,Aquaculture Equipment & Supplies
or maybe drill our a 10 or 12 mm set screw or wrap it with aluminum wire coil like a spring
Copper Fin Tube,Agriculture,Aquaculture Equipment & Supplies
or maybe drill our a 10 or 12 mm set screw or wrap it with aluminum wire coil like a spring
Using a micrometer measure the OD of your atty as well as the length of external portion you find overheaing.
Have the machinist turn one out using aluminum and ream the ID about .0005" larger than the atty's OD.
To install, expand the heatsink in a pan of cooking oil on your rangtop then quickly slip it over your atty. Make sure you get it positioned right the first time since once it's there it might not come off without ruining the atty.
Have the machinist turn one out using aluminum and ream the ID about .0005" larger than the atty's OD.
To install, expand the heatsink in a pan of cooking oil on your rangtop then quickly slip it over your atty. Make sure you get it positioned right the first time since once it's there it might not come off without ruining the atty.
For a better look, take the heat sink to your local electroplating shop and have it anodized, dyed the color of your choice, and sealed to protect the finish.
I wouldn’t clean off the original finish from your stock addy, which is most likely an anodized finish as well that has little or no effect on heat transfer properties.
When all done, you can market your creation as the “Jeorge Jetson Mod”.
I wouldn’t clean off the original finish from your stock addy, which is most likely an anodized finish as well that has little or no effect on heat transfer properties.
When all done, you can market your creation as the “Jeorge Jetson Mod”.
Having though a lot about my mod (still in progress), my idea was to alter the air intake such that it brings in cool air across the outer portion of where the coil is. This perpetually keeps the outer housing cool because air is flowing across it every time in take a drag. So its hard to describe. Think of the standard atomizer tube. Place that inside a larger tube (about 1mm larger such that ~.5 mm air gap between the 2 tubes. Seal the outer tube off and put a few holes in it near where the mouth piece is. Air comes in, goes around and down the inner tubes exterior portion, then finally into the normal air intake hole (I use 901). Every time you take a hit fresh "cool" air flows across the outer portion of the inner tube cooling it down. The larger tube on the outside shouldn't really ever get too hot to touch or anything, I do not believe there is any efficient way to "cool" down the inner workings of the atomizer.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
If you encase the atomizer tube within another tube, I don't believe that any air flowing between the gap would help because you are most liely are going to raise the temperature of the inner tube a whole lot more than it normally would be since it is now "enclosed".
No scientific research here, just a theory.
No scientific research here, just a theory.
Not really fully enclosed when fresh air is constantly flowing around it when ever you take a drag. Have not seen this thread in a while. My atomizers get too hot to touch after 2-3 hits. It is a minor annoyance really but I have noticed that the performance decreases as the device heats up. Building in a method by which it can cool itself down is a good goal. Air is the most efficient way of doing this, you just have to route it when you take a drag. Doing this could make for a warmer vape as the fresh air would take heat away from the inner tube and pass it along to the coil... in the end it would get just as hot, but I think it would take longer to get to the point where the outer tube was too hot to touch.
i was having heating issues as well and i searched for heat-sink.
i have read thru the entire thread to see if my idea was mentioned.
i have been trying to conserve 2 cartomizers due to USPS sucking.
i tend to over vape, and hence overheat my carts. for a week i have setting them down on my cool desk in between vapes. my idea at first was to increase contact with something to dissipate the heat. you could lathe out a CPU heat-sink to hold the cig. something to lay the cig down on. but at the most that would only cover half of the cig, as far as the contacting surface goes.
then i did some driving for a few hours and using the ac vents to cool my carts i know extended the life of my carts. did i mention i over-vape?
but i had a revelation when someone here said that air was a good conductor of heat. i have some extra CPU fans lying around. they run on 12V, or that is what they are rated at. i connected the wires to the fan to a passthru USB cable. and it will run on 5V too. the cage of the fan sits the fan blades far enough up off the desktop to set my e-cigs under. so far working wonderfully.
i suppose if i connected the fan to 12V as rated that it would be way too strong and blow stuff off my desk. but the 5V is a very gentle breeze.
i have read thru the entire thread to see if my idea was mentioned.
i have been trying to conserve 2 cartomizers due to USPS sucking.
i tend to over vape, and hence overheat my carts. for a week i have setting them down on my cool desk in between vapes. my idea at first was to increase contact with something to dissipate the heat. you could lathe out a CPU heat-sink to hold the cig. something to lay the cig down on. but at the most that would only cover half of the cig, as far as the contacting surface goes.
then i did some driving for a few hours and using the ac vents to cool my carts i know extended the life of my carts. did i mention i over-vape?
but i had a revelation when someone here said that air was a good conductor of heat. i have some extra CPU fans lying around. they run on 12V, or that is what they are rated at. i connected the wires to the fan to a passthru USB cable. and it will run on 5V too. the cage of the fan sits the fan blades far enough up off the desktop to set my e-cigs under. so far working wonderfully.
i suppose if i connected the fan to 12V as rated that it would be way too strong and blow stuff off my desk. but the 5V is a very gentle breeze.
exactly.
i have been using drip tips on my KR808 cartos for ease of refilling, or topping off. i want to believe that is helping too. dripping on the hot carto could help to absorb some of the heat as well. with the open end i am hoping it clears leftover heat inside too.
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you could probably use some enzotech mos c-1s and attach them with some thermal adhesive. The pins on those are copper and you can bend them in any direction that you want. Those things transfer heat very well.
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