Any New Vapers try the Innokin MVP 2.0? This has been hard to sort out the ohms, watts and volts

[neutrontech]

Definitely agree. I keep mine at 10 Watts it seems to work well for either My Protank and my rda. I do 100% VG though ^^;

I'm curious. Protanks seem to not handle high watts. I have never been able to vape above 7.5 to 8 watts without a burning taste. The wick just couldn't keep up I guess. I know VG is thicker, so I presume it would wick slower. So if my experience, and the experiences of many that I've read, in vaping high PG juices over 8 watts resulted in burning, how the heck can you vape 100% VG juices at 10 watts?

I'm seriously curious because the burning and wicking issues were my main reasons for dumping the PT2s. I can easily vape the same juices in an Aspire coil at those wattages with no ill effects. So I know the juices can handle it.

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[Ulap]

Since I have had my Protank II the only thing that would have given me a burning taste would be when I rebuild the tank and I mash too much wick into the Atomizer Coil head. I am not sure of what you are doing, but this is what I do:

- typically when I get a gurgle before the tank reaches half full, and I had just put a rebuilt coil in there then I will removed some of the wicking material

- if I get a burnt hit after I just put in a freshly rebuilt coil, I remove some wicking material.

- if I get burnt tasting after couple of tanks, i take the Protank base, pop open the atomizer head, remove the wicking material and give it a pulse until the coil gets red hot. As the coil is cooling down I blow on it to remove the residue off the coil. I then take a q tip and wet it with a little e juice and use this to clean the coil. The wicking material that I removed, I will throw away and re insert new wick. if i still get a burnt taste after this, then it is time for me to rebuild the coils.

- it could be a brand new coil head or an old one, but I will ALWAYS rebuild it. I use either 28, 30, 32 gauge Kanthal A1 built to anywhere between 1.5 Ohms to 2.5 Ohms, and Cotton.

- for 100% VG i put enough wicking material in there to cover the holes at the sides of the head, but just enough to keep the cotton fluffly. If when install the head on the protank base I notice that there is a gap, a fluff up the cotton with one of my wifes sewing needles until the gaps are covered.

- for PG and PG mixes I will do the same thing except I put a Flavor wick, and instead of fluffy Cotton i try to slighty roll and compress the cotton


Thing that I noticed is that many people would try to stuff too much wick in the atomizer head to try and stop the gurgling. It may stop the gurgling up until a certain point, but everything before that point will be a burnt hit, or a 1 - 3 mouth-to-lung drag (or 1 long Lung drag) before a burnt hit.

The gurgling with the Protank is another thread on its own.... but just through trial and (A LOT) of error I found what works for me. I have fired the protank all the way up to 20 Watts on a friends DNA 20 Mod. For me anything past 16 Watts is where I start tasting burnt stuff.

Oh yeah I also kinda modified my ProTank not sure if this could also be the cause of not getting burnt hit, but the buddy that had a DNA 20 mod has a unmodded ProTank with no complaints, so I am not too sure about it. But the holes at the base of my Protank (the part that screws on to the 510 Connector) are drilled out to a 1/16 Drill Bit (since I like taking lung hits). The additional airflow could be helping cool the coil.

 

[spookyluke]

I just started using a dna20 regulated box. Before the dna mod I had a evic and also had a kick module. But I really didn't like them. And my preference was just using a mech. I also use rebuildable atomizers. What I enjoyed the most was a freshly charged battery in a mech. So 4.2 volts? But when I try using the evic or the kick at 4.2 volts, I don't like it so much. Now I got a dna20 regulated mod just the other day and it seems really nice. Vapes like I want. Like a fresh battery?

 

[neutrontech]

Since I have had my Protank II the only thing that would have given me a burning taste would be when I rebuild the tank and I mash too much wick into the Atomizer Coil head. I am not sure of what you are doing, but this is what I do:

- typically when I get a gurgle before the tank reaches half full, and I had just put a rebuilt coil in there then I will removed some of the wicking material

- if I get a burnt hit after I just put in a freshly rebuilt coil, I remove some wicking material.

- if I get burnt tasting after couple of tanks, i take the Protank base, pop open the atomizer head, remove the wicking material and give it a pulse until the coil gets red hot. As the coil is cooling down I blow on it to remove the residue off the coil. I then take a q tip and wet it with a little e juice and use this to clean the coil. The wicking material that I removed, I will throw away and re insert new wick. if i still get a burnt taste after this, then it is time for me to rebuild the coils.

- it could be a brand new coil head or an old one, but I will ALWAYS rebuild it. I use either 28, 30, 32 gauge Kanthal A1 built to anywhere between 1.5 Ohms to 2.5 Ohms, and Cotton.

- for 100% VG i put enough wicking material in there to cover the holes at the sides of the head, but just enough to keep the cotton fluffly. If when install the head on the protank base I notice that there is a gap, a fluff up the cotton with one of my wifes sewing needles until the gaps are covered.

- for PG and PG mixes I will do the same thing except I put a Flavor wick, and instead of fluffy Cotton i try to slighty roll and compress the cotton


Thing that I noticed is that many people would try to stuff too much wick in the atomizer head to try and stop the gurgling. It may stop the gurgling up until a certain point, but everything before that point will be a burnt hit, or a 1 - 3 mouth-to-lung drag (or 1 long Lung drag) before a burnt hit.

The gurgling with the Protank is another thread on its own.... but just through trial and (A LOT) of error I found what works for me. I have fired the protank all the way up to 20 Watts on a friends DNA 20 Mod. For me anything past 16 Watts is where I start tasting burnt stuff.

Oh yeah I also kinda modified my ProTank not sure if this could also be the cause of not getting burnt hit, but the buddy that had a DNA 20 mod has a unmodded ProTank with no complaints, so I am not too sure about it. But the holes at the base of my Protank (the part that screws on to the 510 Connector) are drilled out to a 1/16 Drill Bit (since I like taking lung hits). The additional airflow could be helping cool the coil.

I have never rebuilt any coils, that may be my problem indeed. I've always considered heads to cheap to bother and pitched then when bad. But if rebuilding them improves them it would be worth me trying.

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[bulldog63h]

Don't worry about ohms, volts and watts right now. Start low on your preferred setting, watts or volts. Then adjust up until you find what feels and tastes good to you. Ignore the numbers and just adjust to taste. Once you get to your sweet spot, then look at the number. You wont damage your mvp by exceeding the amperage limit. It has a built in protection that won't allow it to push past that limit.

 

[Ulap]

neutrontech: I have never rebuilt any coils, that may be my problem indeed. I've always considered heads to cheap to bother and pitched then when bad. But if rebuilding them improves them it would be worth me trying.

It actually ends up cheaper just to rebuild them. You can get 100 feet of Kanthal Wire for like $7.00 + (which will last you a life time) and Cotton for cheap as well. Versus $ 1-5 per head. It does have pros and cons, but for the me greatest pro is to build the coil to your liking.

 

[1wildman]

Once you see a stock coil you compared to a nice micro coil you will always want to rebuild when possible.


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[J-dub]

on my mvp v2 with the i30 im running 4v, 8.5w tastes good, I bump watts up when i want to blow clouds

 

[TXMomof2]

I have an itaste vv, I bought the starter kit a month ago and added a glass tank to it because the flavors I lean towards could possibly crack the original plastic that came with the kit.
At first I only went by volts cuz I was so, so new to this and didn't want to screw things up but when I found this forum and started learning more (I learn something new EVERYtime I come here!) I switched over to watts. The coils I have used have either been 2.5 or 2.8 (depends on what store I stop into) and I have found I'm good at 8 watts. When I used volts I was too scared to go above 4 volts because I worried about burning something I shouldn't. After reading things here and checking with the salesperson at the store I felt ok with doing 8 watts...which made me happy cuz that is where the juices I use taste the best.
I tend to buy flavors that have some sort of cinnamon in them...just because I can't seem to taste the more subtle flavors.
Again, I still consider myself very much a newbie and I know are a LOT more experienced people who can give you way better advice...just wanted to share my experience so far.

 

[jorge512]

it is amazing the amount of conflicting information. some like 1.8 others think 2.5 is best. some get burnt taste at 4.5 with a 2.5 ohm coil head while others get the best vape/vapor possible.

for me i have noticed that it all depends on the juice. for example vapor bomb 70pg/30vg vaping with 2.5 at 4.3v/provari with excellent results but anything above 4.4 it start to taste funny. however, mount baker island juice also at 70pg/30vg wont vaper well at 4.3v with same coil head. i have to set it at 4.6v.

with 1.8 ohm coil head both vape well at 3.8v to 4.0v anything above that it tastes funny. i'm using portank 2. never had a leak, no flooding for several months now.

my suggestion is to try several coil heads begin at low setting and gradually increase till you find the right spot.