Any 3D printing ideas?

[TheRapidPro]

Well, hello again. I know I made 3 posts in 2 days and please tell me if it is bothering you

Do you have any 3D printing vaping related ideas?

Oh by the way haha I want to share a little story with you, don't read it if you don't want to

So I woke up one day and said to myself out of nowhere;
"Ima flippin vape"
I had no experience in vaping at all at the time, but I could at least do some stuff in engineering. (I'm double licensed in electronics and mechanics)
So I lit up a cigarette and began designing the body of the box mod. I had no idea how I was going to make it but basically, I was going to print the whole thing, including the atomizer (rda style, I didn't even know it was called an RDA haha) but I had no resistance wire. So break the hairdryer, I did.
After a hell lotta designing and stuff, wrapping the wire around a piece of cotton, (yup) hooking the battery up, but... well... it was a drill battery, I'm talking about 12 volts.
I then bought some glycerin (100% VG) from the pharmacy, and all I was looking for were them fat clouds. Oh man, fat clouds did I get. But also the first vape hit in my life was a dry hit.

After coughing my lungs out, I looked at the cotton, obliterated it was.
Instead of reducing the voltage, I just threw like 10 more windings to it and since, it was the best vape I ever had somehow, ooh I also bought some flavouring and it just tasted like I was eating the real thing.

Then the plastic melted

 

[NCC]

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

Do you have any 3D printing vaping related ideas?

I don't. But I have seen a good bit of vape related stuff on places like Thingiverse in the past.

 

[Superuser187]

I guess the only thing u could print is mod shells and driptips and stuff like that
That won't melt I mean

 

[tom65]

I have been playing around with 3d printing and vape stuff quite a bit lately. My latest is an extension tank for the Kayfun light 2019. I wanted a higher capacity tank.

The kayfun light dome kit comes with a screw on metal extension. My ah-ha moment came when I figured out that these could be stacked. The chinese clone extensions also work and are threaded the same as the svoemesto ones. So, I made a 6ml tank.

The Prusa website had a bunch of information on not only producing water tight prints but also food safe prints. The trick is to use PETG, which is food safe and coat it with a food safe epoxy (found on amazon). The epoxy fills in the layers and prevents bacteria from living in between. PG is anti-bacterial so this helps as well.

Here's a link to my thingiverse post:

Kayfun Light 2019/21 6ml Tank by tom6565 - Thingiverse

This is dead simple: 3 circles and 2 extrusions. I have also designed a 6ml dome tank that extends down to a single extension but havent quite finished that yet.

Have also printed things like "mod 510 protectors", mod bodies, buttons.

Love to see this thread "activate" with discussions about 3d printing and vape gear.

--tom

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

coat it with a food safe epoxy (found on amazon)

Got a link to the epoxy?

BTW: I remember a couple years ago when I was researching 3d printing (but never bought a printer ) people were using rubbing alcohol to smooth out their prints. Alcohol essentially melts the plastic a bit and makes it smooth and shiny. But I can't remember if that was PLA or PETG.

 

[tom65]

Got a link?

I bought this one, which looks to be out of stock at the moment.

Amazon.com: Epoxy Resin Crystal Clear, Food Safe Resin for Bar Table Top, Wood, Art, Craft, Jewelry, Super Gloss Resin for Casting, Coating, Non Toxic Resin 1:1 Ratio- 16 oz Kit: Industrial & Scientific

There is a class of epoxy that is FDA approved for food contact. Not an expert, but A\any of those would work, I think.

One more point I was going to make. I have resisted buying a lathe and a milling machine because I think we are on the cusp of being able to affordably 3d print full metal. In fact, BASF's Ultrafuse 316L allows printing of 316L steel right now. It is a PLA mixed with steel. You print it larger than the final product and mail it out to BASF for debinding and sinterring and the part comes back to spec - solid 316L.

Prices of ULTEM and PEEK printers are dropping as well.

Exciting times!

--tom

 

[zoiDman]

...

BTW: I remember a couple years ago when I was researching 3d printing (but never bought a printer ) people were using rubbing alcohol to smooth out their prints. Alcohol essentially melts the plastic a bit and makes it smooth and shiny. But I can't remember if that was PLA or PETG.

I believe that you are thinking about Acetone.

 

[tom65]

Here are some articles I found useful when researching:

How to make food-grade 3D printed models - Prusa Printers

Prusa Knowledge Base | Watertight prints (prusa3d.com)

3D printed lenses and other cool transparent objects - Prusa Printers

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

I believe that you are thinking about Acetone.

Rubbing alcohol.

There was (is?) made a little "machine" for it, too.



But you don't need the Polysher to do it.

 

[zoiDman]

I believe that you are thinking about Acetone.

BTW - You can sometimes make 3D Prints Shinny or have a Gloss Finish by doing a Very Fine Wet Sand followed by some Quick Passes with a Heat Gun.

But be Forewarned. Too much Heat Gun can turn you 14 Hour Masterpiece into a Sagging Heap of Cruel Disappoint.

 

[zoiDman]

Rubbing alcohol.

There was (is?) made a little "machine" for it, too.



But you don't need the Polysher to do it.

Interesting. I have Never seen that.

So you Need to use a Special Filament for it to work. I'll have to Lookup PVB.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

Interesting. I have Never seen that.

So you Need to use a Special Filament for it to work. I'll have to Lookup PBB.

Turns out that you have to use a filament called polysmooth to use Polysher. But I swear back when I was looking into 3d printers I read/saw that you could smooth PLA with IPA. But I may be wrong.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

BTW: I mentioned this because I figured smoothing a 3dp by melting it would not only make is smooth but also seal it. Seems like it would be a better option over epoxy. But I really don't know. I can also see how it might not be better than epoxy. I mean, in a vape/food safe context.

Of course, the tank was made with PETG so I have no idea if you can smooth/seal that without epoxy.

 

[tom65]

The epoxy is pretty easy to apply. Dries in about 18 hours. IMHO, it is simple and safer for the hobbyist.

PETG is used to make water bottles but unless you 100% trust the manufacturer there may be additives that are not disclosed. Also, as the filament is extruded through the nozzle, it is abrasive and tiny amounts of metal from the nozzle are extruded into the print. If you use a SS nozzle, then I guess that is better but I'm not an expert. My original thought was to use a Polycarbonite blend on the tank for strength, but PC blends contain BPA. It's all rather tricky to figure out each element in the chain. Seems like the epoxy takes the safety issues mostly off the table.

Here's my 6ml 3dprinted tank on the Kayfun light. Vaping it right now.

 

[tom65]

Not trying to flood this thread, but here's a couple more photos of vape stuff I've made:

Doors for billet box. Printed white with PETG and used alcohol ink for color:

Case for Squid Detonator. Ninjaflex filament.

 

[TheRapidPro]

Amazing stuff, guys!
I thought of printing an atty glass as one of mine broke when I dropped it into the sink. Use ze vape band everyone!
Luckily I had a spare.
About the material that dissolves in ethanol;
It is called Polyvinyl Butyral, which is a special type of filament and I have concerns that PG might dissolve it as well, as it dissolves in not just ethyl alcohol, but many others as well and propylene glycol is technically an alcohol.
You can use ABS with acetone vapors to smooth it, but it is not the best material to use for this type of stuff and is not really known for its health benefits
I printed lots of cigarette drip tips because I switched to MTL vaping because the 10 meter wide drip tip of the NRG tank just didn't feel good for me. I really liked the mod that Tom65 printed and painted!
Thanks for your interest, love you all!

 

[Aerodan]

I've been working to get an old original Vapor Flask back to operational with a DNA60 instead of the 40 they came with. It's required 3D printing a new sled, extending the screen cable and microsurgery that really is meant for people with small hands and better eyes.

That said, aaaaalmost there. Using Carbon Nylon filament on a Stacker S4, .4mm nozzle 270°C

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[UncLeJunkLe]

Stacker S4

You own one of those?

 

[Aerodan]

Yes, it's a really solid machine. Reliable as heck. Upside: industrial quality, decent enough price for what one gets and multiple part copies are easy. Downside: bowden extruders have limitations in material and it's not an enclosed unit.

The new model has servo motors, which is a huge upgrade but also a big cost. I'm kinda curious about the new enclosed Makergear units. I have an M3 dual that's adorable but hardly gets use.

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You own one of those?