What Fatty Daddy 510 to use for a update Hana DNA 30 clone?

[Fearlessleader]

I was wanting to upgrade the 510 connector and the fire button on my Hana dna 30 clone I see fat Daddy even have a drill and tap combo that i am going to buy and i see they have the new version 4 in low profile copper So I thought that I would go with LP 22 mm short. But in one of the other versions the V3 he says for the Hana cana retro fits to us the Version for wood and drill and tap. I had planned to do the drill and tap does this mean that is the version I can use is the V3 Wood and buy the 22 washer to go with it.

I see they offer a 3 pack of the V3 wood for 6.29 then its like a buck to add the 22mm washer.
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I was going to just grab the fat daddy fire button at the same time.

I also just put in for 2 of the dna 25 in the coop interest thread, I thought doing these up grades on the switch and fire button would let me get my feet wet to do the chip swap if the Coop goes.

I just want to make sure I get the right 510 and tap and die so I don't get this all tore apart and stuff don't fit because I ordered the wrong parts.

I am going to hang onto my leftovers from the upgrades and put the dna 3o left overs in this box from Cigabuy Hana Modz DNA30 Enclosure Case Clone - CigaBuy.com

 

[david4500]

- v3 wood with 22mm washer

or

- v4 22mm low profile (not short)

Hana clone upgraded with FDV v4 lp 22mm:

Both of the above connectors have long threaded bodies which you'll need with a Hana style enclosure.

The FDV drill/tap bit will work. Use a drill for making the hole. Once that is done, attach the bit to a hand tap and tap by hand.

 

[drmarble]

I also used a fdv4 low profile 22mm not short. It fit great. I used their combo drill/tap. I had to grind down the web between the electronics and the battery to fit the nut. Just some grinding right up by the hole. You probably don't need the nut but I was feeling paranoid about a poor ground connection interfering with temperature protection. Mine was one of those dead $5 clouper clone boxes. Others may not require any filing.

 

[Fearlessleader]

- v3 wood with 22mm washer

or

- v4 22mm low profile (not short)

Hana clone upgraded with FDV v4 lp 22mm: and buy the drill tap for the install.

Both of the above connectors have long threaded bodies which you'll need with a Hana style enclosure.

The FDV drill/tap bit will work. Use a drill for making the hole. Once that is done, attach the bit to a hand tap and tap by hand.

Ok so you used the LP V4 then it asks if you be flat top or regular

I am going the the FDV LP v4 Copper 22mm


Ok next I would need to know if I can use the FDV LP 10 amp switch or would there be a better choice that would have better clearance do you need such a high amp rating when on a regulated mod I would rather use something a bit smaller I know things are going to be tight in that corner where the switch and the 510 connector goes. is there switch out there that some has used that that would not be so big ?

 

[david4500]

Flat top or regular is your choice. I pick regular so I can wedge something into the air grooves to tighten down the 510.

The FDV fire switch looks pretty big. You'll certainly want something low profile. The switch does not need to be rated for high current. The typical switch on Hana style mods are C&K tact switches:

KSJ0M43180SHLFT C&K Components | Mouser

Although I haven't used them specifically with a Hana style mod, I like to use 12x12 tacts in mods. Such as these:

Amico 10 Pcs 4 Pin DIP PCB Momentary Push Button Tact Tactile Switch 12 x 12mm x 8mm: Electronic Component Pushbutton Switches: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

10 Pcs Momentary Tact Tactile Push Button Switch 12 x 12 x 12mm 4 Pin DIP w Cap: Electronic Component Pushbutton Switches: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific (the cap/button diameter is 10mm. ignore amazon's mentions of it being 12mm)

Examples in mods:

 

[Fearlessleader]

Well I got my FDV 510 low pro copper connector installed today. it was pretty much a breeze way nicer than the stock junk they use in the hana clones. Next I want to get rid of the crappy fire button and I am waiting for the guy here doing the DNA 25 TS chip coop to go live. I at least got my feet wet with tearing in to my hana and seen how easy they are to work on swapping a dna 40 or dna 25 will be a snap. I was just wondering has anyone done a a yihi sx350 J TS 60/120 watt swap into a hana case that would really be the best to put in but almost 3 times the cost but the screen size I think will be a issue. The all in 1 drill tap 10x1.0mm was a handy little item from FDV but you do have to lift the chip up too get the tap part to thread all the way down. for doing new builds on a empty case it just fine but I would say if you just upgrading the connector go with the a drill and separate tap or pick up 10x1.0mm bottoming tap then you can start the treads with the drill tap comb and use the 10x1.0mm bottoming tap to finish the threads that way you would not get any interference with the tapping or the last few threads. the drill work real nice removing the stock 510 connector too. I just drilled to old one out. I highly recommend some WD 40 on the drill and tap for both the drilling and trapping. when taping the treads remember to do a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn in then back the tap out enough to cut off the material you're threading don't just ram the tap all the way down with working it back and forth as you're cutting your threads. the other thing on this model 510 to unsolder the lead going to the center pin when it attaches to the board then just put it back on once the new 510 connector in all done being installed. The other thing is you don't need the nut or the negative tab since you are threading the case they are not needed. I just used a old 510 atty to tighten the new connector in and put a drop of tread locker on the few tread that stick out. you don't use the nut or threadlocker first time you tighten up a atty a bit to much it will try to back the whole connector out instead of the atty just coming off. Just a few tips and my 2 cents. here a pic of the finished job

 

[Fearlessleader]

Next i think i will put this fire button in the 12mm size Mitec Push Button - 12mm or 16mm - Clicky

I put myself on the waiting list I see the button some of you have used and i just don't like the look of cheap plastic I want to SS it just looks classier to me since I am going to try the sx350 J anyway in my next mod I get a few of them at the same time I would use there 510 connector but since I have drilltap form FDV I might as well stay with FDV other wise i have buy a drill and a tap and it s not worth dropping 10 or more bucks to switch the varitube 510 they're both pretty close just need different drill and tap why change plus FDV offers more options in styles.

If any knows of a place that sells the Mitec-Push-Button--12mm and has it in stock please post a link